Cricketman

ah, so that why L/A wanted my ghillie suit and tranq darts... it all comes together now... :rotf:

To me, the way this is put, says that this step is pre-chlorination, so again, whilst they may be reducing the amount of chlorine they use, there has to be a certain amount of free chlorine in the water when it leaves the disinfection stage... from exactly the same page... note that they talk about standing to remove taste of chlorine, whereas we have to remove the chlorine/chloramine for our fish... And if the water is in a sealed system, the only place that FAC has to go, is to be complexed and solute into the water, in the form of chlorine dioxide, or chloramines (if there is available N) from http://www.moh.govt.nz/notebook/nbbooks.nsf/0/237C397A37EFADA9CC25750600720E08/$file/drinking-water-standards-2008.pdf So you can assume 2mg/L as a MINIMUM free available chlorine that should be reaching your house, or more, the closer you are to the water treatment plant, or a continuously monitored distribution center, and depending on the cleanliness of lines in the area... Also depends on how much nitrogen is in the water to begin with (I realise that the carbon in Hamilton is going to help here...), and the lines in the area (how dirty they are or however) as to how many chloramines are in the water once it gets out your kitchen tap... or once you add it to your tank for that matter... but there is always going to be chlorine and chloramines formed AFTER the water has left the plant... In fact, I'm sure i remember something about chloramines being used to treat water in places (outside NZ, I have a feeling it was USA???) where chlorine gas can't be used? - I may be mistaken here, but I'm sure someone will set me straight... Anywho, thats my contribution, do with is as you will... :thup:

Still, standing water is not going to do F.Adams... http://hamilton.co.nz/page/pageid/2145826980/Water_Treatment Fourth bullet point...

apparently not... :-?

Or any de-chlorinator for that matter... Chlorine does NOT just dissipate, there is actually very little free chlorine in the water, it all turns to chlor-amine (which is the stuff that makes your eyes hurt in the swimming pool) this still needs to be removed, which is why we use de-chlorinators...

Did anyone else read this topic and instantly think of a sweatshop of goldfish with little printers and plates stacking up single bills at a time... :roll: you think thats crazy... try living in my head... :digH:

got a call back from MAF, they are illegal, they are checking up on it. not on trademe anymore, so that at least stops them being shipped inter-island or whatever... She said it may come down to Auckland regional council to decide if they want MAF to get more involved with finding them, which they have to still check etc... :dunno: half-result?? System in NZ is stuffed... Should be that if it is not meant to be here MAF have right to nuke...

Can't kill a legend... :rotf:

Keep the water changes up till you do and you'll be fine. Wouldn't bother with proper pH, you're going to be changing the water all the time till it cycled. That, and I don't like adding unnecessary chemicals to your water... it just a money spinner for LFS... there are better ways of adjusting your pH down the line that you can use, IF you even need it... Nice... Also, just so you know... It shouldn't be necessary to heat your water change water unless your doing a huge change (over 50%, and even then, I don't recommend these unless it a hospital tank). It rains in the wild, and a few °C for a little while, before your heater gets it all back to temp, won't kill your fish. Also makes the whole water change thing much easier.

Barry White??? :thup: It hard to determine exactly what each pairs problem might be in one succinct explanation... All I can suggest is try find as much information possible about each individual species breeding habits. Sometimes water change can bring it on, sometimes it is pH dependent, sometimes light dependent, or whatever... And depending on requirements for the eggs to survive (some are light sensitive, some get fungus easier, some are sticky, some might need a specific temp/pH etc). So as you can see, there are far to many variables that any one particular thing that you may be doing or not doing would have you not seeing a result. The hardest variable being stock quality (almost totally out of your control) and whether there is any noticeable sexual dimorphism,so that you can guarantee that you have a decent M:F ratio... Speaking of which, you may also find breeding trio's are a good idea for most (but not all) species. My advice to you is, choose one species you REALLY want to get breeding, research the **** out of it and concentrate on that, then move onto your others. Google is your friend! :thup:

certainly a good man... and, a better friend you will not find... bloody grey-headed warbler... :sage: thanks for everything over the years baldy... :rotf: :digH:

I'll do them for 15 and a shiny button... :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: minimum order 1000... gots to make it worthwhile... :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

From what I've found I believe squirt is right that they should have been destroyed at capture. Also believe that they shouldn't be being sold or spread around the country. sellers line that he bought it off a breeder contradicts his own listing.. then at the questions.. Not on the Import list either... Someones telling porkies... :-?

http://conservation.govt.nz/upload/documents/science-and-technical/PF04barnes.pdf bit of info on them Turns out that they are not on any MAF list as illegal or anything yet... though they are known invasive species Might be legal in that case... lodged a MAF call so they can check it out themselves. Seems the responsible thing to do.

i concur, brown Bullhead... colouration varies between individuals from what I have seen. probably a lighter colour since it hasn't been in a silty stream, and is being housed in a tank with white substrate...

49 then, sheesh.... :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :digH:

SWMBO said no cos she thinks that the dog will have it... Tried arguing that it would be in hutch... Might be Mac D's for dinner in the dog box... :facepalm: :rotf:

:rotf: man that knows his priorities....

tap. tap tap. tapity tap, tap tap, tap tap tapity tap... :rotf: :digH:

Now, usually it is about here that I deal with a difficult situation by making light of it... and in that spirit... Bloody woman drivers... :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :digH: Wish you all the best for your recovery, Stella...

:thup:

Top o' the morning to ya! Hope you are all being merry and enjoying my favourite day of the year... I just had to share this, Try not spit your guiness all over the screen while watching this... :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

What concentration was the ammonia solution at. also, you already had nitrites, they would have converted to nitrate. also, your ammonia in your morning reading is 0, so your tank dealt to the ammonia you added, creating NO2 and NO3. Do a couple water changes over teh day to bring it down. NO3 is not harmful to your fish. They readily take up ammonium, (NH4+) which as you'd know by now is pH based, and varies wildly in each tank dependant on a number of factors, and is in a equilibrium. Whilst the filter is a main source of high-surface area for bacteria, reality is that they will grow on everything and anything that is in the tank. Removing plants is only going to increase your NO3 readings. As G.C points out, you have already cycled if your moving that ammonia solution to NO3 overnight! If anything, get more plants! You have to have at least a 6" sand bed to get anaerobic bacteria... so, end of day, song remains the same.... DO YOUR WATERCHANGES! :thup: EDIT: just saw your substrate note. how long has your peat been in there? that could well be a source of NO3's... see here : http://journals.lww.com/soilsci/Citation/1971/02000/Nitrate_Transformation_in_Peat.6.aspx

reddish bits = coralline algae ? Need photo to be sure.