For the lamps you can try Mastertrade, Rexel, Stewarts, Ideal Electrical or any other electrical components dealer. Can't quote the price I get as it's trade less a fairly decent discount so I don't actually know the normal price.
No worries Caryl. It's great you can come and a much bigger effort for you than most. We'll delay the meeting until you arrive and have had a quick breather...
Hello all FNZAS affiliated Club members,
The FNZAS Executive will be holding an Executive Committee meeting in Turangi on Saturday 3rd February.
Any FNZAS Member is welcome to come to the meeting as an observer. Any club delegate is welcome to come to the meeting with full voting and speaking rights. If your club wishes to send delegates and they have changed since conference 2006 then you must advise the FNZAS of the names of the your club delegates before the meeting in writing or by email. This must be a club committee decision.
All are welcome. This is a right all members have but nobody every exercises this right. Would be good to see a few faces especially with the Molly Hunt being held the same weekend in the same area.
Email me if you want the address and a map.
Electronic ballasts use high frequency switching to apply the correct voltage or current on the tube.
It will depend on the design topology of the ballast. If it's a voltage source then you will likely blow the tube or ballast or both - it will be designed for the run voltage of two tubes. If it's a current source then it will be fine on one tube.
Most designs of electronic ballast I've seen for two tubes need to have two tubes connected to work properly.
See if you can email the manufacturer to ask, their answer will sort it all out.
Yes that's the list but not the NPPA manual - worth downloading.
The list is still very new - September 2006 and some of the plants have only recently been classified. Shops are probably still unaware of the change. Biosecurity has not done a good job of making the information readily available to many groups and especially not the public. If you didn't happen to know the manual was called the NPPA you probably would not find it on the Biosecurity Website...
How is the public meant to know if they don't make the information easily and readily available?
Read what is in the NPPA Manual. You will discover there is no such thing as Class B noxious plant any more. These terms have not been used for at least three years now. It's now called a 'Pest Organism'. There are also banned organisms on a separate list but it's quite hard to find.
This is the only information you need to reference to find out if you are allowed a plant. If it's not on the list it means you can have it.
http://www.biosecurity.govt.nz/pests-di ... accord.htm
Just make sure you correctly identify the plant. The onus is on you to get it right.
Here's my beef-heart mix. It has many fruit and veg in it so I suppose it classes correctly, - although the fish are not directly eating one specific fruit or veg...
500g beef-heart (all membrane and sinew removed)
500g shrimp
4 carrots lightly cooked
2 big silverbeat leaves lightly cooked
250g peas
4 banana's
3 pears
50g spirulena powder
Stick everything into a blender until finely chopped up. Mix all ingredients very well in a big tub. Freeze in convenient sized bags. Squash the bag flat so it is only 10-12mm thick. Makes it easy to chop up while still frozen.
Don't care. I dislike text notation that much... I don't even send text messages (maybe sent a total of 6 then stopped - no more!!). If someone sends me a text I call them back. I'd rather speak to them.
Text notation has it's place for those who wish to send text messages. In my opinion that's where it should stop. Otherwise the quality of the language we speak now will drop. People are constantly being taught to accept lower quality and it has to stop somewhere. Since our language is relatively important, like air and food, it needs to be preserved in a similar manner.
I have no problem with the way people post as long as they are trying to use correct English.
I don't even bother reading posts from people who write in 'Text' notation. Texts have completely butchered the English language. If people can't be bothered to try to write words correctly and use punctuation (like full-stops) then I can't be bothered reading their dribble...
Wouldn't bother with a canister if you have a filter built into the sump. The canister is a waste of time. Add a little extra space into the filter section of the sump and put the bio media into it as well - much better value for money and one less thing to have to clean.
I use a filter/sump above the tank with a 6000L/hour pump in the tank and gravity return. It has 15L of Effistubstrat and 13L of commercial Siporax in it. It has a 50sq foot pleated cartridge pre-filter for the worst of the muck. I've never cleaned the filter in 10 years. The pleated cartridge filter element get cleaned once a week and that's it. It is a 5 minute job and I consider this pretty quick weekly maintenance for a 1200L tank... There's no reason it couldn't be turned around to gravity feed the filter and pump back to the tank.
It's also a wet/dry type. As I grow plants, I've added a rubber seal to the top of the filter so CO2 doesn't escape.
Most if not all of the plants and fish used in this setup are available in NZ.
With plants, they don't have to cost that much. You only need one of each plant no matter how big your tank is. They grow very quickly in the right conditions and in only a couple of months you'll have 10x as much plant as you started with and it will be full sized as well...
I once set up a 3000L aquarium and was going to stock it with 35-40 Discus. The plan was to buy 4 (2 breeding pairs) and breed them to get the number I needed. So again, if you are prepared to wait a bit you can save many $$.
I'd try the vaseline first. The seals are quite tight due to the large contact area and grip of the seal. By putting a thin smear of vaseline on the edge of the plastic and the seal it will slide home more easily and is more likely to make a good seal. Lack of lubrication is possibly what has caused the seal area to compress or stretch so you now have a leak. When I was using canister filters I always put a thin smear of vaseline on the seal area to reduce the force require to refit...