jolliolli

excellent Tom_shannon will be following this with interest!

i bought one of these recently. I haven't really used it but can explain how they work. You don't connect them to your tank you connect them to your house tap and you will need the correct tubing and tap connectors to do that. Once connected to your tap the water passes through a sediment prefilter, carbon and reverse osmosis membrane. The carbon and sediment filters remove a lot of the larger particles and the RO membrane removes the salts, chemicals etc. After passing through the RO membrane the water produced will be separated into two streams, a waste stream and the cleaned stream. RO units usually wast 4 litres of water for every clean litre they produce.

On the stuff website today they rated mercury cheaper than meridian (i'm with meridian), but meridian uses cleaner sources to generate their power than mercury. What annoys me about the genesis/pukeko tv ads are that they try to makret genesis as a environmentally friendly power provider, however they are rated the worst on the clean energy guide site (heres the site for reference) http://www.cleanenergyguide.org.nz/ceg/info.asp

I bought an endcap for the overflow pipe from bunnings. The endcap has a large hole in the centre and I glued gutter guard to the inside of it to stop any fish getting sucked down the pipe (in the event they travelled over the overflow).

true freshwater puffers don't need salt, only the brackish puffers. Which species are you looking at?

Net Speed: 70 WPM (words/minute) Accuracy: 94% Gross Speed: 74 WPM (words/minute) the laptop keyboard is kind of crap to type on though

oh well , :lol:

are you talking to me phoenix? don't know the ph i don't measure it, tank has been running for around 1 1/2 years and is planted, i would hazard a guess that its around the 7.2 mark. I didn't do anything special to introduce them, i actually just made sure hte water was the same temp and put them in. I think sometimes you can stress a fish out if you take too long acclimating. They are happy wee fellas, they are in a 40 litre tank with an SAE. They are around 1cm long at the moment, fed them some bloodworms yesterdy and the bloodworm was bigger than the puffer still managed to eat two of them though.

I assume he is talking about the fully freshwater dwarf puffers, i think the latin name is Carinotetraodon travancoricus

dwarf freshwater puffers are fully freshwater. Bought a couple today myself

what are you wanting to keep in your tank eg. soft corals or hard corals? i had a quick look at the aquareef 200 aquariums online (i'm not familar with them) and they don't have very strong lighting, so you would struggle to keep hard corals. it really comes down to what you want to keep. Your most important pieces of equipment are your skimmer and lights. All in one units often skimp on these pieces of equipment so you are often better off buying your equipment separately rather than buying an all in one unit

yeah i've removed a couple of the filter boxes out of juwel tanks before. The boxes usually have four silicon spots holding the box in place. Best method i've found is to use a piece of fishing line to "saw" out the silicon spots. The heavier grade fishing line is better otherwise it tends to snap.

careful with the PP its a very harsh oxidixer and in my experience you need to be able to weight the doseage very accurately or it can result in death (from experience). I would go with metro first, i had a disucs with similar symptoms to what you described, not eating, sometime floating sideways etc, dosed with metro and that seemed to do the trick

ur CBB is looking in great health livingart, very nice! think you'll have a hard time choosing which pic for POTM but that CBB photo is nice

ok cheers Barrie will try that, sounds like it could be a user problem :oops: . I haven't been dehumidifying through the day

Hey thanks for all the info guys. I will try experimenting with the heat pump, we have only had it put in a couple of months ago, we have two units one in the bedroom and one in the lounge. Made sure we bought the right size unit (or larger I think) but i suspect we havne't been operating it correctly as we don't leave it on all day... hence the moisture. There is a 'dry' option but when I run it in this mode it seems to put out cold air which isn't pleasant! I do have a dehumidifier that my parents have borrowed, I might try running that in combo with the heatpump to pull the initial moisture out of the air and see how that goes. Thanks for your comments on the retrofit barrie, that was an option we were looking at, but it doesn't sound so great. I had thought about the DVS, HRV option but have heard some conflicting reports about their effectiveness.

I'm getting a lot of condensation at the moment and i'm wondering if double glazing the windows would help. Has anyone here had issues with condensation and changed over to double glazing? If so did it help with the condensation? Tank is open topped and i'm running MH lights so enclosing the tank is not an issue. I have a heat pump but that doesn't really seem to help that much.

the halides will create a ton of heat if enclosed. I run 2x250W MHs on a pendant approx 30cm from the water surface. Even in winter I have to keep fans running across the surface, and this is an "open air" tank. I've replacing the fans with a chiller this year and a temp controller.

yes saw this in fiji with when out on a dive, i agree that it is likely to just be the polyp extension/retraction that you are viewing. i have a quick 2 sec video of it, but its not good enough quality or zoomed in close enough to be worth posting

sounds like you're being pretty realistic to me, I don't think you have to go FOWLR to begin with, I think if you start with the right corals you should be fine. Things like mushrooms, leathers, xenia are all pretty easy care corals and will give you good practice for measuring your levels (salinity, magnesium, calcium and kH). There are a few salties in Wellington, but i'm not sure where the local marine lfs is sorry. Your main spends will be your skimmer and possibly your lights depending on what you want to keep, buy the best you can afford as you'll only end up upgrading later. There are often a few setups on trademe that you can get for a reasonable price.

used to keep sterbai with my discus at about 28/29 degrees and they were happy little fellas, i think i remember reading that sterbai were more tolerant of higher temps than other cories

those discus are ugly

fishbreeder many ppl here have tried to offer you advice as to how to best care for your fish, biting everybody's head off about when they give you advice regarding the filter is not going to win you many friends or make ppl want to offer you advice in the future.

love it :lol:

yip all ar380s are glass