Insect Direct

was just pointing out sender seemed to be happy with them checking on them. i assume no heat pack would have been better anyway. not fair to assume company at fault. assumptions assumptions :dunno:

clown could be gone also, but still here, it is easter :rotf:

use to be a bit trigger happy and take pics of everything. plus had a few animals to take pics of back then. the circus has left town :smln:

photos have never killed a reptile in my care :sml2:

Well Joe, in the quote you provided it says the supplier was offering to provide a temp gauge... so seems they were probably well within their right to check on it and probably only doing so as a favour. May be the bd jumped and fell, game over. May be it was sick before it was sent. May be may be may be. Give the company a kitkat i reckon. Best to package well and let it be. A day or two in transit is nothing major for a bd.

massey vets should be able to help? pretty sure there are a few around the country that have experience with reptiles. i think the problem is with lack of education and very likely a lack of responsibility in most cases. most turtles requiring vet treatment seem to have had inadequate care. vets can only try and fix the problem. i think it is the cause that really needs addressing. advice from two turtle suppliers on tm is a bit of a joke at the best of times. imagine what impact they could have over a couple of decades or more. do we lobby to ban turtles because a few muppets fail to provide appropriate care for them. or do we try educate people and continue to give the future generations the chance to keep turtles?

from permit holders/captive bred stock in order to help curb demand for illegitimate export of wild stock that is already going on

dart frogs would be neat. would like to see more focus on natives. open trade for permit holders. only reason for permit is to stop taking from wild. reason for trade is to build up populations but more so awareness of native animals as oppose to exotics. we grow up knowing of tuatara but what about the many other reptiles and our native frogs !drool: . . .very few are lucky enough to have ever seen them. encouraging export could relieve some strain on wild populations from the black market. i think the natives could almost replace some if not all demand for any more exotics. at present demand for exotics is only getting bigger and bigger. about 200 people :lol:

yeah should be sweet. if the bulb glows it ah working

be ok. most desk lamps are narrower than the reflector shades though. so have to screw bulbs in by holding bulb bit instead of base of bulb like you meant to. just dont tighten them up too much, risk it smashing in you hand. if too tight may have to smash to get it out again. little messy.

ive started using compact fluros. no complaints so far. a 2.0 or 5.0 uv output bulb should be enough. 2.0 is literally brighter so no need for another light source. may find 5.0 a bit dull so may also want a daylight fluro to brighten things up a little. small vivs a 5.0% on its own should be fine. this is what ive been using http://www.hollywoodfishfarm.co.nz/detail/view/exo-terra-repti-glo-2-0-uvb-26w-compact-screw-e27/m/1009/ exo terra clamp lamp fittings, the ones that glow for a bit after lights out, are my favourite. directs the light downward nicely. these ones http://www.hollywoodfishfarm.co.nz/detail/view/exo-terra-glow-light-small-14-cm-up-to-150w/m/1203/

if no light use powder with d3. better with a light though. forget the salt for now. cant find dosage. may find on google, was just thinking to prevent infection a little salt may help. they live in slightly brackish water in places. a quick dip may be better though. and probably all unnecessary so may be best to just leave it

twitching may be a sign of calcium deficiency. dust the live food with calcium powder. replace uvb bulb if getting old. if just a cut and everything else is ok then should come right. could add a little bit of rocksalt to the water.

bit hard to say what the cause is. just make sure it is well fed. they seem to go down hill fast if low on food.

one of the experts who has posted in here gave me a link to the dachiu website a few years back. only time i had tails nipped was when i got low on food. + had 5 housed together and was a complete noob. would be interesting to see the outcome of some raised at 25-30 and 35-40c after 3 years. some say slow grow bigger eventually. Seen more stunted beadies about then anything so something aint right out there. consistency is key.

Unreal, glad you are ok

cut from sharp object or another frog with the munchies? frogs die, that's life :oops: take a photo it lasts longer .. post it here while you're at it :sml2:

they love 35-40 ime 30C basking temp makes for a slow growing tempremental little git :lol: " The top basking area on one side of the cage (closest to the light) should peek between 100 - 105 [(37.7 - 40C)] degrees for adults and 100 - 110 [(37.7 - 43.3C)]for babies - with the ambient cage temperature on the other side of the cage being significantly cooler - approximately 80-85 degrees [(26.6 - 29.4)]. This basking temperature may seem high, but these temperatures are common of the ground surface when air temperatures are over 85 degrees" http://www.dachiu.com/beardeddragoncare/dragoncaresheet.html have read articles stating upto 120F (48.8C) basking temps but I do think that is pushing it a little.

reminds me of some bearded dragon tails after being bitten by a tank mate. would dry up and eventually drop off.

dnt ditch the hard shelled thing, put it in a pond if you decide to change tank purpose :sage: nice tank. if there isnt a heat lamp hidden in there then adding one would be good for the turtle. a colony of convict cichlids would probably do ok in there. . .

nothing for the past few months. heaps last year, all deformed. may get the frogs back and give it another shot if other things pan out this year. then again may skip over to dingo territory and get an accent. yeah right

nothing has been worth growing on so i wouldn't know.

seen any with a little yellow spot like this?

not unusual for normal bell frog tadpoles to appear translucent. often do so when kept indoors for some reason, but in this case generally all or nothing and they still morph into green frogs. there also appears to be a genetic factor playing a part with some though and in that case often see only a % of a batch.

keep an eye on it. may find it morphs green/normal even if very yellow/transparent looking. could also be leucistic if you are really lucky or you may even find the eye pigment fades and ends up albino. :nilly: