JDM

i use filters at work, i can get one to fit that is hepa h11, 99% down to .5 micron, might set that up, only downside to it is it will need to be chainged approx every 3 months. is the hrv filter a sock? the diy one slows as the temp falls, this is not controlable, unless i change the temp range. the hrv is a very good system, i know a few people who have them and they are very pleased with the results, i am just too tight to spend the extra and would rather put the money into new toys.

EU4/G4 sock filter, what dose the hrv have? what is the l/s or m3/hr rating of the hrv? i beleve the differace in price comes down to the lack of fetures of the diy kit, most of these features will not affect performance of the system, they just add controlability to customise the settings for flow and tempture, i have the ability to control the temp setting but i will need to add a motor controller to adjust the fan speed.

is that one for each hand? :lol:

i am now into my 4th day of the system, it is going really well, i thort i might need to upgrade the filter as there was a smell of insul fluff, but this has gone and all in all im very happy with the way it is working, my windows are completely dry all the time, even with the bedroom door shut all night (i have a vent in each of the 2 rooms that are being used) there is no trace of moisture anywhere. it dose create a bit more noise that i thort, still within comfort range but not totally silent, i have made no adjustments since i installed it so i might be able to reduce the noise by closing the vents a little. rating is still a high 9.5/10, it has done exactly what i wanted it to do and the diy has saved me heaps. with the money i have saved i might look into an upgrade.

looks awesum! good spred of light too!

very nice! full the sensor of the lux meter with silicone, this will make it water proof, but also make a repair to it hard to do.

got me a silfert nitrate test kit today, it is reading about the same, around 20ppm, also rechecked my po4 and found i had recorded it wrong and also posted the reading on here incorrectly, it is 0.03.

The system comes with one outlet, however the l/ph rating is the same as dvs and they will do up to 5 outlets before upgrading the fan. I used the heat transfer kit to add 2 extra outlets, it has very good flow through all 3 vents and all the vents are adjustable, I am considering adding another vent but will see if I think it is necessary. The system has only been running just over a day so it is too soon to tell how well its working, however I have noticed that my windows have not fogged up tonight as they normally do, also my dehumidifier has only pulled out about half its normal daily removal. Rating so far 9.5/10 (price being the biggest factor so far)

had dvs around today, the guy was very nice and on time 12:30, he gave me the speal and went through what i need and what extras i would add, i ended up looking at the g3 dvs with lcd control panel, a summer kit and 3 extra vents, this totalled $4200 :evil: so i said that was a heap more than i expected and i would need to think about it. i remembered looking into a diy kit and found bunnings had the best price, so with the info from the dvs guy fresh in my mind i decided to check out bunnings. after around half an hour of thinking and checking what was avalable i decided to buy a diy kit and save myself some cash. i got home (3:30pm) and got stright into installing it, 3 hours later it was running, (dvs had a 3 week waiting list) now there are a few things i should make clear, the diy kit dosnt have the flash lcd display, and i havnt brought the summer kit (it is avalable though and can be added anytime) however all the ducting is properly insulated as per the dvs. so now the big thing, the price. all up with the extra ducting and y peice i needed to have it the way i wanted it (same as the dvs guy said it should be done) it cost a grand total of $879.60 :bounce: so this leaves me enough spare cash to get a heat pump as well and i could also afford to buy my own bottle of wine (or rum) to celebrate! i am very happy with the quality of the kit and it is totally silent, the proof will be in the eating of the pudding when i see if the condensation starts to clear up, hopefully i will notice a differance within a week.

yep i rinse my frozen food, use a small tea strainer. ive tested the rinse water and there is no way i would add that to my tank.

with the po4 at .3 i was happy, is this still too high? it has been on a downward trend for the last 2 months and has not increased since i stopped using the po4 remover. my clown tang is a bossy but super healthy fish, i have heard they can be hard to keep but mine has never shown any signs of ich or any health worries at all. i must admit however he is going to leave my tank as soon as i can catch him (man hes fast and clever) he is responsiable for 2 fish deaths and one was my big blue tang that i just cant forgive him for. he is going to a good home where he will have plenty of room. then i can get another blue tang, yay!!! anyway back on topic, so po4 at .3 is too high?

im not sure its feeding that is doing it, maybe though, i feed mysis 2 frozen squares once a day, i have 1 maroon clown 1clown tang 1 yellow tang 3 chromis 2 cleaner shrimp and 2 starfish. i always feel like im under feeding them, i think if i cut back they would become skinny. :roll: i was using a po4 remover but have stoped around a month or so ago as i need to get some more and the lfs in hamilton dont stock any. i had a massive clean up on tuesday night this week, cleaned all the sand and blew out most of the rocks with a power head, heaps of crap came out, i havnt done that for a while so that may have been a part of the problem. i do 10% water change every week without fail (its my thing to do on tuesday nights) i tested them againg tonight and they were a little lower a positive 20, so it might be a passing thing. :-? did you find the vodka a benfit on things other than cyno fay? i have some that i use on a 70ltr tank that i play around with coral frags etc, great on cyno but do you think it will help nitrates?

love the pic of the pb, he looks healthy as! come to think of it everything looks healthy and happy. are these photos taken with the flash on?

:lol:

i agree layton, it makes sense to me.

thanks wasp, not sure how long my tank will remain newish though? i have had this setup for 2 years (in a few differant tanks) apart from 2 new rocks that i cured before putting in this tank when i moved in october. nitrates were lower before the move, around 5-10, but i have been more concerned with phosphate since i moved, and becouse i dont really trust my nitrate test kit i have paid little attention to it, now im keen to get it lower, and a more reliable test kit will amke me test more frequently. so still some maturing to go, as always, good things do take time.

i have just tested my nitrate level, im using aquarium pharmaceuticals test kit, i will be getting a silfert test kit this weekend to get a more reliable reading. however the test i have just done shows my nitrate to be between 20-30ppm, i would assume this is far to high. i guess 0ppm is ideal, but what is the level in your tank? what method(s) are you using to control your nitrate? just for the record my po4 is .3 (silfert)

Always seem complicated to me, ive seen the calculators, is there an easy formula to work out what my system needs?

makes sense to me so far layton. im in for the next step.

so if used according to the instructions, then you will not start to "kill" corals? if i overdosed on any product it will have a negitave effect, no?

cut back on which product? i must admit that dose sound strange. i havnt read that anywhere.

ive tested the water from raglan many times and it is good every time, i also rather enjoy collecting nsw and its just so much cheeper and easyer imo. cheers wasp, might be somthing in those rocks

From what I gather, it is using zeolite (rocks) in a open top reactor with water flowing through them, there are a number of additives that go into the system, the basics consist of zeobak (bacteria for the zeo rock) zeofood7 (food for the bacteria) and zeostart2 (a phosphate and nitrate reducer) The system is used to reduce/control phosphate and nitrate. There are many more products available that all have their purpose but im not familiar with them. Its a touchy topic but I cant see why, as in essence it is another system/products that have been tested for aquarium use and found to have benefits and drawbacks, what systems don’t? As many have said before there are great tanks using the zeovit system and there are great tanks that don’t, it really comes down to a personal opinion and what you find to be best suited to your needs.

:lol:

cheers guys. might get up to the standard of your tanks some day.