alanmin4304

Turtle tucker. Shouldn't be sold and should have been culled when young. There is no such thing as a nymph oranda as an oranda is an oranda and a nymph is not.

Out of interest: If a galvanized pipe is 9/10ths full of rust and gunge the flow will be restricted but the pressure will be the same.

A few drops of methylene blue will stop the fungus that grows on the infertile eggs from spreading to the good ones.

The slimy green layer is probably blue green algae which you can get when there are low nitrates. No fish means no waste for the bugs to convert to nitrate. I had it in a tank where the fish had died and I wanted to do a few water changes before puting fish back in. Once I put fish in and it started to cycle again the blue green diminished and it has now gone. Just leave it as it is --add nothing and feed lightly.

If you look at the internal diameter of the outlet on the air pumps you will find it is generally a lot less than the internal diameter of the air hose. If you double the diameter of a water pipe you get four times the flow. Air does not behave the same way as water because water is virtually noncompressible. Air is far less dense and is easily compressible and therefore has a lot less friction loss and causes a lot less back pressure. I think the outlet of air from a double outlet pump joined together would be very similar to one not joined.

It is the breeding season and they are only cute when very little. Foreplay? Whats dat?

If a leak exists in a water pipe it will be out rather than in. Phosphates are not related to the Governor of California and would have some problems swimming against 60psi. It would be about as likely as an artesian water supply being contaminated. I still suspect the testing method.

You can actually as air does not behave the same way as water.

I think they can carry the sperm for more than one lot of eggs (like guppies) and they lay when they are good and ready. I have a seperate tank that I put the females in when they are ready to lay. One female lays early and frequently and the other later and infrequently (one has laid 3 lots and the other none yet). I can tell by their behaviour when they are ready to lay. They get very restless and dig in the gravel frequently, then they dig in the gravel on the basking area and when they switch from digging with the front legs to the back it is time to move them. In the laying tank they get very restless and get up-down-up-down for a few days then lay. They are looking for the best place to lay but don't have much choice.

I would question the test as there would be no reason to add phosphate that I am aware of.

It can't be dominant either. As an aside I understand that the sex is related to water hardness, is this so? I bought 10 babies and they were all females.

ktttk---well said. i just found it hard to understand how two recessives could throw a dominant (and only about 10%)

How do you get phosphate from a galvanised iron pipe?

Got mine, very good reading.

It is misguided protection of the fry. They can be big and viscious and that is why I suggested moving the male or both. The problem with both is they may continue to scrap if in the same tank.

Sounds like blue/green algae which can be encouraged by low nitrates. It is actually a bacteria (cyanobacteria) and has been frequently discussed here.

I have 3 males with 8 females and one that has bred is from Dixon. I would expect that you could get albino young from 2 normals carrying the albino gene but not normals from albinos.

Apple snails feed on plants. I use siamese algae eaters---they work harder when small and get a bit more lazy with age.

Why do you need to adjust the pH?

Less than 1 ppm hardness is realy low considering the water round the recharge area is probably higher than that.

I could be wrong but I understand that RO acts as a micro filter and allows water to pass through but retains molecules bigger than water. If this is so then molecules smaller than water will also pass through.

I have a tank with a few kribs (all albino) and they have spawned a couple of times. When young I was suspicious but now they are bigger it is clear that about 10% are going to be normals. I always thought that the albino gene was about as recessive as it gets. How could this be or do I need better glasses?

Just put them in a bare tank with an air stone and heater. Feed them brine shrimp nuplii and microworm but only when they are free swimming.

You could scrape them off with a razor blade and hatch them in another tank.

The tank I had problems with was cured of blue green but about 20 female killies died over the next 2 weeks and showed signs of gill stress as you would expect from too much ammonia. After they died and were removed I did heaps of water changes over the next few weeks then got a heap of blue/green back. I suspect this was lack of nitrogen because of no fish. Have started adding fish back and fish are OK and blue/green is diminishing. It is all about getting the right balance. If you kill it with antibiotics but don't fix the imbalance you will get it straight back again.