alanmin4304

A lot more work cutting and splitting wood but if you are getting it free it would be a lot cheaper than electricity even taking chainsaws into account. More heat as well I would think. We have to go and get another trailer load this afternoon for the boy to split and stack.

We have a clean air approved log fire which is not on wet back but can boil a jug, perc coffee and/or make soup/stew. It is hard to get a wet back log burner with a wet back because a very efficient wet back takes too much heat out of the combustion chamber and makes more polution. So called wet backs are only boosters and don't boil the hot water system like the caste iron ones in the fire place in grandads day. You can sometimes install a system of ducting and a fan to take heat from the flu and direct it towards other rooms. Most log burners have double or triple skins on the flue for fire protection and the heated air between the skins is normally wasted and exited to the outside air.

A good investment I would think---might have to follow up on that later (when house has been done up and normality returns a bit)

The black beard is to do with mood or sending a body language message to another beardie like head bobbing or arm waving. The dark colour of the body is to do with heat. Dark colours absorb more heat and when warm enough their "normal" colour will return.

In a previous life when I had a fish house I had a meter which was basically a spare meter like in the house and it measured the number of units used for the power coming in to the building. I think in those days it cost 10 or 15 dollars. Don't know how much those ones from Dick Smiths are but they would do the job.

How about buying a meter and getting the power consumption 100% correct. That calculator is to give an indication of the size of heater you will require. The same info is pretty well displayed on most heater packaging.

Welcome and enjoy your time here.

If my understanding is correct, NZ has a similar system of permits for keeping reptiles as they have in Australia. They have a permit system to keep their native reptiles and we have a pemit system to keep our native reptiles. The difference is that they are not allowed exotics but we are allowed a restricted number and it is not clear which ones they are. Their natives are our exotics but I don't think our natives are their exotics

A small amount of aeration from the bubbles, but the vast majority due to circulating water from the bottom of the tank up to the top and disturbing the surface.

My understanding is that water has a greater affinity for O2 over CO2. This is born out by the fact that aeration will drive off CO2 which increases the pH and oxidises iron and manganese to a less soluble form that can be settled out of a water supply when it is a problem.

An airstone will agitate the surface and create more surface area just like a power head or anything else that increases the surface area.

It is called weldon because it is acrylic disolved with a solvent that will also disolve the surface of the acrylice you are glueing. The solvent will then evapourate and leave a "weld" of acrylic. Same idea as welding metal or more particularly PVC. Any silicone I ever tried was no good.

+ RO does not normally produce great volumes of water.

I had a number of spawnings of albino to albino kribs and they always had a small percentage of normals included. Weird genetics, I have never seen that with other fish. Your normal may be split to albino.

When I buy a one pound tin it is OK until I open it because they are packed with nitrogen. Once opened you need to repack them in sealed containers with as little air as possible and refrigerate them or the hatch rate drops off with time.

It would seem to me that the best way would be for the council to remove the iron and manganese before reticulation.

It will be the chlorine oxidizing the iron and manganese to a less soluble state and it could be partly settling out in the mains, then getting stirred up again. You should be able to settle it out in a drum.

This is no doubt the reason why most couriers will not take live animals. This will probably be another company to add to the list.

By the colour of the bath water I would think you have a lot of iron in there as well. The joys of private or semiprivate water supplies. This is usually a problem in peat country. I assume you have your own onsite sewage treatment and disposal system as well

If the water is acid it will put manganese and iron into solution. Iron makes the water taste foul and stains the bath, while manganese makes mother's whites come out grey in the wash. The cheapest way to cure the problem is aeration. It will oxidise both to a less soluble state which can then be settled out before use. Addition of chlorine will do the same thing. The NZ Drinking water standards at the moment only apply to populations served of 501 or more. The maximum acceptable value for manganese is 0.4 mg/litre. Do you know what your values are and what population the supply serves?

It depends how often and how much water change you do. If you do regular water changes the change in chemistry will be minor. If you do water changes rarely the changes may be great. The risk is in the changes to the conditions and not the water change.

As my father used to say---ya gotta get ya vitamins from somewhere.

Were the trademe ones eggs or freeze dried nuplii with the shells removed?

Welcome--there are a few beardie people on this site.

The sparrow population down this way has been thinning itself off with salmonella. The feral pidgeon population carries psitticosis and campilobacter is frequently carried by birds. A good thing elephants can't fly. Nothing wrong with rainwater as a water supply---grandad only had that to drink and he lived to the ripe old age of 26.