WTM

Pics bring back memories, of my wife's and my honeymoon. We spend a day at the same zoo, so funny to see the same enclosures, and animals again. Though you missed a photo of my favourite...

First pet store said the can't get them anymore... Second pet store has not got back to me yet Electrical store reckons about $50-$60 all up. On top of that is reflectors, which I can find listed online. Will update as it progresses..

Well to a point aside from the truly stupid (i.e. snakes) I think a case can be made than many animals could be kept safely (from the countries perspective) within a licensed system, with those deemed as not-desired allow to remain for the remainder of their natural lifespan.. (i.e. as with pet ferrrets some years ago). Also bearing in mind that many of the exotics have 0 chance of surviving and breeding succesfully without human intervention. For an amnesty to work, then really it needs to be a true amnesty, with obvious exclusions stated up front (snakes, etc). While the right to pick and choose is held by MAF a vast number of people will just stay quiet... (after all they've survived until now with their pets, why risk the pets life now?). The best insurance against action against our hobby, (at least on a species by species basis) is to get as many people owning reptiles (responsibly) as possible. Once a critical mass is reached, it becomes much more difficult for MAF to act.... i.e. imagine MAF trying to ban pet rabbits, it just would never fly, even though they are a noxious pet (fyi - I am a rabbit owner as well).

Got a store getting us a price on the 30w unit. Also popped into an electrical store, and it is cheaper to put together a controller from parts. Decisions decisions - cheaper or simpler with more features.

Thanks guys has been a real help... Jason - That's exactly what I was considering, but it seems they don't stock the 30w model... As per Fishplants comment, I've been in contact with an electrical supplier, and they reckon it can be done for less than 1/2 the price.... plus each tube would be seperate, so advantage of redundancy...

Yeah, am getting that feeling.... I've used the entire units in the past, but for this I really would prefer to have the lights inside the terrarium... Might pop into one of the pet stores on the way home and enquire about an order... or give a lighting supplier a call. I guess I could try a hydroponic supply place, but I'd really prefer not tp invite a house raid... :lol:

Fair point.... Essentially what I mean is the unit sits between the bulb and the power socket (excluding the wires). i.e. something like this http://www.exo-terra.com/en/products/light_cycle_unit.php

Thanks Alan... Suggestions of places to get light controllers, other than LFS? I tried the "Lightbulb man" today, but didn't get very far there....

Sorry if this has been asked before, but I have a bit of a question. I'm currently setting up a new terrarium for my dragon, and so far I have nearly everything sorted, but the lights. Which is what I'd like some advice on... To maximise the uv, I want to install the lights on the inside of the mesh (rather than above), so am looking at using a seperate light controller and 90cm bulbs... However on looking around the two main light controllers options I am looking at, are either 20w or 40w Now, the thing is the bulbs I already have are both 30w bulbs... Now I know with stand indancescent (sp?) you can use a variety of wattages in a fitting, but I'm not sure about fluoro's. So, can I use the 30w bulbs in the 40w controller?

Basic economics dictate that price equals where supply equals demand... The problem in NZ is that the threat of being shut down is sufficient to keep supply low hence the higher prices. Personally I have no issue with people making profits while taking the risk to bring a species back out of the closet so they are available to more of us, ie beardies. Once they are established, then supply increased and prices come down. Now hopefully the same will happen with the tortoises...

As you said though, who dares take someone that changes the rules and then says "see you broke the rules". It's like playing a 5 year old at a new board game.... The sad reality is that over time we will slowly end up with only a couple of different species that are so common now (i.e. beardies, red ears, etc) while those that are here, but not common slowly die out. The true stupidity of it all, is that the vast majority of these animals would have no chance of establishing breeding groups here.

Undergravel is the best idea... possibly could even sneak it in why she's not looking. I know what that's like Rochelle, boss decides on an idea, beyond all realms of logic and good sense, but they are boss and as long as the don't break the law there is little you can do to stop them (as they will just get someone else to do it) Luckily in my case it has always been IT issues, not ones involving defenceless animals. Perhaps point out it is extremely bad feng shui to inflict cruelty on animals?

Cotton buds for the win.... Sounds like you're on to it, though watch for any sign of infection, or any lethargy, or lack of appetite... I imagine Beardies are another one of those creatures that can hide being sick quite well.

Iodine isn't the best for the insides of reptiles, which is why it's used watered down (I believe). That said, it works a treat with reptiles, just make sure they don't ingest it...

Still no word from the glazier (but then I can be quiet on the phone, so should probably call again in case he couldn't hear my number). I may well take you up on that, but first I'd need to arrange a bigger car (only have a mx5 running). What sort of dimensions is it (high, long, deep)? I intially was trying to keep the filter going, but once we realised the extent of the leak, it sort of went to the side, so by now I'd say it's gone off (am dreading opening it). That said we also have two fish tanks running, so can use some media from them to restart the filter. As for putting the in the bath.... well let's just say i may trust my health to that hazzard, but wouldn't trust it with my turtles health :oops: :oops: The irony is that they had broke their basking shelf the other week, so I had them outside sunning themselves when this all happened, and I'm certain they were laughing when we found the leak (I think the rabbits put them up to it). Our biggest worry is the damage to the carpet... does anyone know if contents insurance cover tank leaks? And thanks for tha advice guys, it's REALLY appreciated.

Well it's finally happened... After several years of tank ownership, we have a tank that sprung an almighty leak (turtles have ripped the silicone out of the bottom edge of the tank. :evil: Luckily it is the turtle tank, and not one of the fish tanks, and I've already left a message at Port Nicholson to give me a call about arranging to get the tank re-siliconed (not game to try DIY on this tank). However, the reason for this post is that we simply do not have a spare tank big enough for the girl and boy, and I was hoping for people more experienced than ourselves to advise if we are dealing with this the right way. They are staying in a carboard box for most of the day (i.e. dry docked), and once a day we are placing them in a tub with warm water and food, for 2-4 hours to ensure they can eat, rehydrate, and relieve themselves. They are both quite relaxed about being out of the water, and do not appear stressed. If our current plan is flawed in any way, please let me know, and any advice offered would be appreciated... Thanks in advance.

Yup, they shed... Provided it isn't too bad, or goes on too long there shouldn't be any problem.

Well, I've not hibernated our two RES (still inside). But our vet hibernates his outside in their pond no problems. Which is what we will do when we get our own house, and pond. If I remember right (from when I was looking into getting some) you can't hibernate Reeves. As for Snake necks, I'm not sure, but it could be risky. ~W

I concur with the others.... You honestly don't need to worry about water parameters (as you do with fish). Turtles are relatively pretty hardy... As long as you have decent filtration, and do regular "substantial" w/cs you will be fine, you will quickly know if the water needs changing sooner. ~W

A vet in the Wellington area... Dr Ray Lord (Maidstone Vet or Upper Hutt Vet (can't remember which)) He is pretty knowledgable about turtles, in fact he has some himself.

We are using an Eheim 2028, best purchase we ever made. You just can't beat a cannister filter for turtles, and the bigger the better.

Hi Was wondering if this months meeting is indeed on the 9th? I assume it's cool to come and have a look before joining? Cheers WTM

You need the uvb light.... Turtles need the UVB to synthesise D3, without it they will lots of problems; soft shell, bone structure, etc.... Oh and glass used in windows filters out the UVB, so that will be of no use... Wade

I always remember the formula oft stated on turtle forums... Fish + Turtle = Fed Turtle ...maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow, but it will happen... Seriously though, the question is whether you mind him/her eating some of your fish, if you don't mind give it a go.... Convicts are often listed as a good fish to have turts due to their ability to breed rapidly.. Large Plecs are also good, due to their size... WTM

That at least means I did try everything possible.... Which is some comfort. ~W