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Discusguru

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Everything posted by Discusguru

  1. I don't think the florish EL is causing it cos i dose quite alot. It might have been the dying algea. More waterchange might help to rid the dying algea. Good luck, ron
  2. Big wen and short, deep body are some of the quality of oranda. ron
  3. All the trouble you went through to get rid of it and it might still come back again. IME you most certainly get it if you're setting up a planted tank. It will go away once the tank is established and balance, and the plants are growing well. I had it in my tank on the 4th week and treated it with era tablet once. It all dissapeared in 24 hrs and so far all is good. ron
  4. Drontal will be very stressful for the fish cos they contain other stuff besides prazi. Agree with Alan to treat it with PP. ron
  5. Are you sure it's flukes cos they're pretty tiny and hard to see with the naked eye. If it's fluke you'll be better off to treat them with prazi or 37.5% strength formalin or potasium permanganate. Could it be anchor worm or leeches instead? Personnally cure ex doesn't do a thing for me and is a waste of time and money (my personal experience) Good luck with your treatment, ron
  6. Blue, a couple of them are. Don't like the swords that are grown emersed so took it out. Alanmin, the barthi will grow hhuge. Took some new pic after rearranging the plants and added 17 gold tetra and another 2 ottos. and this in the front anyone know what this plant is might put this one in gold tetra, new addition ron
  7. Try storing a barrel of water with an airstone in it overnight. Then use it for the waterchange and see if you still get the pearling. ron
  8. Thanks for the comment guys. rcon021, are you getting out of fish? ron
  9. Tank have been set up for 10 weeks. 2nd week have to deal with BGA. Then all hell broke loose and algea everywhere. Took me 6 weeks to get it under control. Discus have been in there for 1 week now and are settling in. Every now and then they look abit dark and stayed at the back corner (probably due to the bright lights. Lighting are 1 double tube T5HO and 2 double tube T8. Fish : 4 discus (eventually will be 10-12) all spotted. 5 otto 4 cories 2 SAE 2 bristtle nose 1 lg male gba 1 gold nugget 10 cardinals 4 clown loach co2 sera filter : aquios 2200 gravel : JBL plant base with bright water gravel on top and finally a thin layer of Seachem Flouride on top.
  10. only two from the tank outside (barthi and uruguansis sp) The rest are all from friends and some pupuke. ron
  11. Took some photo of the planted tank after adding 4 discus into it closeup of right side middle section of tank left side ron
  12. Breeding discus is not hard at all if you have a good pair and the water chemistry is right. To me they are one of the easier fish to breed. All you need is a tank (80-120 ltrs) , a heater and a sponge filter (optional but without one daily waterchange is a must). Bare bottom tank to make life easier. Ph - 5 to 8 (as long as they are stable and not fluctuating) Temp - 27 - 30 Soft water for breeding. ron
  13. totally agree with Alan that it is one hell of a job. Reading from a book written by full time breeders is one thing, but to actually do it yourself is another. cichlid7... you can put a screen over the eggs to stop them eating or keep an eye on the pair to see which one is eating the eggs and remove him/her. Some of the reason they eat the eggs are the pair are young and inexperience, they are spook, don't feel secured, water conditions are not right. Try to place the tank in a place with the least traffic and leave them alone. Staring at them all the time will spook them or make them insecure resulting in them eating the eggs. ron
  14. a ss that carries the leopard genes or lss :bounce: ron
  15. Bli, keep in mind the lss are F1 fish. Keep up the good work and you'll be rewarded with nice healthy fish. ron
  16. Thanks, feed them some bbs tonight and notice all their belly full of it so it's good sign. ron
  17. I don't think there's anything to panic about. They should heal by itself. Very nice setup indeed. ron
  18. Thanks Afrikan ! Always an awsome sight to see lots of frys in tow . Pity they don't feed off the parents like discus do, that would make life so much easier. Caserole, yea i've been told that but I haven't got the time to fiddle with the microworms lol. One day i will get a culture to see if it's easy to keep. Never have any luck with white worm :oops: I feed the parents with mossie lavea and daphnia and bloodworm ron
  19. Thanks Brad and caserole! Brad, your pair is very nice, I think you posted it on a tread here and I've seen it. Notice how dirty the tank is? It covered with algea. The first 4 spawn never gone past 3 days because I kept the tank sparkling clean and they all die of hunger. They are too small to eat BBS in the first few days. ron
  20. Hey evil, still battling hairy algea. Will get some updated pic . ron
  21. Thanks for the comments. Started with 3 pairs and everytime a pair breed one of the parent got kill. They fight over the eggs alot. Out of 3 pairs i am left with only 1 pair. I just put them together after they both kill their pathner and they spawn the next day. Have got an earlier batch which is about 1-1.5 cm in size. Will let you all know when their ready to go. Thanks, ron
  22. photo of my ram with 1 week old frys cheers, ron
  23. Ok, here we go, 1 Snakeskin (F1 Leopard (male) x SS (female), 14 bars shows that it is at least a SS/ leopard Snakeskin (F1) 2 Melon 3 same as 1 4 Turk 5 Red/White (rising sun) 9 Look like a clean gold pigeon (might be wrong) Hope it's not too confusing . ron
  24. Take individual photo of the one you don't know and i'll tell you which is which lol. ron
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