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New tank..... will be updates as things go along.


Duke

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1450mm x 750 x 700 - tank is being made.

Lights 4ft Arcadia (twin 150's + 2 x T5s) + 4ft Arcadia ( 4 x T5) these will be mounted one in front of the other.

Over flow design will be simular to this:

http://www.reef-eden.com/DIY%202%20.htm

I will be using a sump 1000 x 600 x 500. Stright under the tank and under the house so head hight for L7 pump is 1.5 -2.0m. I have standing room under the house.

Return pump will use a Super Squid

http://www.oceansmotions.com/

and I'm hoping to use 4 x revolution, one on the end of each Super Squid output. The revolutions turn as the Super squid alternates water to each out put. Need to confirm this can be done.

http://www.oceansmotions.com/

The whole system will be controlled by a PLC from upstairs including auto top up of the sump and salt water make up bin. I will syphan water from the tank through another pipe from up stairs with a pump also PLC controlled.

The PLC has 8 outputs and 16inputs for me to play with.

A button for 30min rest on the skimmer for zeovit. There will be LOTs of switches and lights telling me what is going on and is completely programable to my liking.

I will be making the stand etc

This is a big job but I will keep the pictures and updates comming..... I have great ideas for the control system which will be way cool.

Picture of 50mm twin over flows & under house

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No to the skimmer but they have left today so time will tell. I have to sell my 1250 skimmer to recover some $$$.

I had to do the same when I brought my twin 150's Arcadia 3series lights off trade me for $650. Sell my T5 setup. You will notice they are still to be used...ah ah. But the skimmer has to go.

Any ideas on how to setup an auto syphining from my tank too (can't spell for shi%) under the house? I can use an output (switch) to start a pump from up stairs but it will need to be able to suck a bit of air to get things under way. This water could be used to do a water change in a quarintiene tank under the house with a crude overflow in to a drain. I have power and water under the house.

Don't you love the "flick a switch" thing?

Lights will come on to confirm that a pump is working, same for a level sensor etc. Anything is possible.

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Well my new tank arrive yesterday. Had to have a beer and just look at it for a while, long while. My wife thought this was strange. My 2yr old boy was running around with a BIG spanner making me very nervious. I have to wrap it up when I'm not looking at it.

12mm glass x 760l, minimal bracing (I love the space in side with no big over flow) Gregg $460 including large sump. Oh I love a good deal.

It looks so BIG in my garage.... shame it will shrink when its full of water.

Back to bussiness.

Here are a couple of pictures of the tank and my over flows!! Let me know what you think... not that you all need to be asked!!

I am looking at options, the fitting showing is from a pool shop (spa intake) and their stuff is cheap. 6m x 50mm pressure pipe is $49.

The fitting is used in spa pools but I am unsure about the screws you can see, they are 316SS but I'm sure they are still no good in a reef enviorment. If I go with these then I will glue them on instead of screw.

I also have 50mm Hansen bulkhead fittings on order tomorrow so I need to descide which I will use. They are all returnable at this stage.

I will be using 10mm airline in the elbows to eliminate nosie of the overflows and the top glass is just sitting waiting for water test to set the tank water height before siliconing in place.

The two over flows will go in to a tee with one 50mm feed in to the sump under the house. This tee / tap $50 from the pool shop is tuneable to slow or stop the over flows if needed. 2 feeds in and 1out. This ball valve is cool I'll show some pictures when I buy it.

I have purchased all the timber to build the stand which I will start tomorrow night. I need to brace the floor, bulid a sump platfoorm under the house and wire my control system in the comming weeks.

So much to do I think I'll have a beer.

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http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d41/Arronhooper/IMG_5952.jpg

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IMG_5952.jpg

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wasp.. the 30min button is just a standard button which will tell the PLC (programable logic controller) to turn off the skimmer for 30min.

My whole system will be programable!

Just a heap of inputs +program telling the outputs what to do.

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Cracker you are correct.... I wanted to do somthing differnt but it is a little (LOT) scary as it is un tested. I have no idea where the water level will sit until I try it out. Need to build the stand first.

Too far down the road to stop know.

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I reckon the level will sit about 20mm above the lip if you run a moderately powerful return, say like a 4000LPH.

I think you have problems with anything bigger, Even 4000 may br too much.

Ive been looking at it and think it may be noisy...trying to think how to dampen it ....

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I think you will find your water level will be too high with those overflows. As cracker says I would also take a stab and say 4,000lph would be a max. My lph is about this (maybe a tad more) and water level sits just under 20mm above the overflow lip. Dual overflow will give greater surface area for water flow so you might just be ok. I would seriously test this before doing anything else.

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The top of the over flow lip is 30mm from the top, I am going to use a L7 return pump which will be approx 6500l/hr at 2m head. remember the overflows are twin 50mm.

Can't be louder the my current overflow pipe which is a stright pipe.. I can hear that in the bedroom. Kind of nice going to sleep listening to a water fall. Oh then the chiller starts which we call the 747 as we can't hear the TV from the kitchen when it starts. We have been living with this for ages now.

Need that sump under the house. I only hope we don't have to move when it's finished.

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The top glass can be removed if needed. I could also lower the overflows as cracker suggested if needed. I hope not.

Also thought about the spa fittings, if alge grows on them under the top glass I can't clean them!! Maybe the hansen fittings are best.

Or I remove the overflows completely

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remember the overflows are twin 50mm.

these wont be the issue. the water level will always (and obviously) come up to the overflow lip + a few mm no matter what size the holes are (of course there is a minimum overflow hole size you will need to keep up with the demand) the issue is the surface area around the overflow chamber - it may not be big enough to cope (even though the size of the overflow hole and piping can) the water will rise above the overflow lip by X, the only way to find out X is to test it (I'm sure there will be a formula, but your overflow design is quite unique being on an angle) good luck :D

Need that sump under the house

i can definately recommend that!

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I had the same problem that Chimera is refering to and had to lower my overflow. There is a calculator of suggested linear inches of overflow given the amount of flow for your return on RC:

http://reefcentral.com/calc/drain.php

Although, I don't believe it specifies how high the water level is above the overflow with the optimal amount of linear inches.

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