mycoolmc Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Have just brought a house and it has a stand alone garage. What better than to make a fish room! Garage is 5.5m * 4.5m and will hopefully be just african cichlids. Plan is to move all my tanks in (as they are currently in my parents garage) then insulate, get decent power feed and water+drainage. Have started buying the large industrial strenght racking systems from Mitre 10 and will see how these go and will probably start making some racks out of 2*4's also but in the mean time the premade ones are much easier. Currently all tanks are filtered by at least either a canister or internal filter or both and will be looking at mainly going for Sponge filters. Would like to know some feedback on this. Have currently got a rather powerful airpump so hopefully should be okay to do this Will update this thread as I go Concrete was cracked and in terrible shape so have just finished getting the concrete slab being redone 4 ft rack that will be taking small breeding tanks and 2.2m stand that will be taking 6 * 3footers Current lot of tanks waiting to be moved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Looking good mate I am sorry I haven't replied to your text we need to catch up! Glad to hear you have found a house too.. I am doing a similar sized storage room off the back of the garage which is great as I will still have my double garage to play with. Mine is in far worse shape than yours though and I have allot of timber etc to replace and get the roof sorted etc. My plan is to do a concrete floor, pink bats/gibb walls/roof and run 2 massive air pumps at either end of a common line (like I had in my container if you remember?). You must be glad you have your parents house to keep the tanks at in the mean time, moving all my tanks was a nightmare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mycoolmc Posted December 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Yeah thought you would have had fun moving out of the container:), parents want the storage back so gonna try get this all sorted by new years. Gonna be interesting. Im not sure if i'm going to gibb or insulate the roof at all as there is vents the length of the garage where the sides meet the roof and thought it will help with making the room not smelly and circulate the air a bit. Not sure if this is bad idea or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrienne Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Sounds good for both of you. Did you get steel reinforcing in the floor when the concrete was laid? Remember to ensure that the floor is level as well If you can it would be better to put the insulation and power in before moving the tanks over otherwise its going to require double handling. Remember you may need to get some switchboard work done to for the garage to accommodate the extra power loading. We have a resident sparky at our place who never ceases to be amazed at the number of shoddy, half done, fire hazards that exist in the Auckland area which relate to badly installed wiring and overloaded boards. Would you take some decent photos of your work in progress for me for the magazine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mycoolmc Posted December 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 Sounds good for both of you. Did you get steel reinforcing in the floor when the concrete was laid? Remember to ensure that the floor is level as well If you can it would be better to put the insulation and power in before moving the tanks over otherwise its going to require double handling. Remember you may need to get some switchboard work done to for the garage to accommodate the extra power loading. We have a resident sparky at our place who never ceases to be amazed at the number of shoddy, half done, fire hazards that exist in the Auckland area which relate to badly installed wiring and overloaded boards. Would you take some decent photos of your work in progress for me for the magazine? Concrete is reinforced and now reasonably level. Have nearly redone all the wiring. Digging trench for new wire from the main switch board in the next couple days which will easily be able to handle 60 odd amp:) Have got two mates who are sparkies so pretty sorted on the power side which is lucky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mycoolmc Posted December 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 Update from yesterday and today Yesterday New Sockets installed and wiring put through New fuse box to be installed on right hand side of the window New light fittings installed and wired. Man that is bring 3* two 58Watt T8's By lunch time today had put in building paper and insulated about a third Couple beers and pies later and mostly insulated Gib on on about half the garage Enough for today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camtang Posted December 21, 2013 Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 Nice stuff. Loving how fast you work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discusguru Posted December 21, 2013 Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 Are you sure the wiring can go in touching the outside cladding? I thought you have to drill through the frame and tread them through. Nice big fish room :thup: Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted December 21, 2013 Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 You aren't mucking around are you! We are still unpacking boxes I haven't even managed to make it in to the shed to start sorting that, well done, do you want to come and do mine next? What discusguru said I would be too keen on having the wiring going through touching the metal cladding like that, in reality there are gaps there and the insulation on the wiring should be good enough and it would be subject to abrasion etc but it probably isn't recommended. 60amps is tons! If you are fully insulating and not using heaters you wont use much at all, unless you run a ton of lights or something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discusguru Posted December 21, 2013 Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 Are you going to put the ceiling on? All the heat will be lost without the ceiling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mycoolmc Posted December 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 You aren't mucking around are you! We are still unpacking boxes I haven't even managed to make it in to the shed to start sorting that, well done, do you want to come and do mine next? What discusguru said I would be too keen on having the wiring going through touching the metal cladding like that, in reality there are gaps there and the insulation on the wiring should be good enough and it would be subject to abrasion etc but it probably isn't recommended. 60amps is tons! If you are fully insulating and not using heaters you wont use much at all, unless you run a ton of lights or something like that. Theory was i'd over do it and then there would never be any issues if i needed more sockets. With the wiring i have put holes in the 2*4 on corners and places i think it needs it. Ron - Still haven't decided what ill be doing on the roof yet. Will definately be insulating some part of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexyay Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 Are those by any chance the shelving units from bunnings which come with a kind of mixed wood? Did you replace the wood (and if so, with what?) - we had a water disaster on the original wood which caused it to sink (tanks were sinking in over time anyway) and have now replaced them with plywood. Wondering what the best option is as they're pretty efficient units but I find heavy (even 30+L tanks) to sink inwards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrienne Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 Looks great and I am very jealous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mycoolmc Posted December 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 Are those by any chance the shelving units from bunnings which come with a kind of mixed wood? Did you replace the wood (and if so, with what?) - we had a water disaster on the original wood which caused it to sink (tanks were sinking in over time anyway) and have now replaced them with plywood. Wondering what the best option is as they're pretty efficient units but I find heavy (even 30+L tanks) to sink inwards? Yeah they come with some pretty rubbish mdf which if gets wet would be a distaster. The rack in the photo is the ones that can take 250kg per shelf (121cm long). I replaced the wood with 17mm(i think) plywood and coated in polyurethane from memory. Now takes 3 ft tanks at about 150kg and is fine. The metal is pretty thin and doesn't look like it will last forever so changing over to the more solid ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoFishing Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 Looks great. Heaps of light in there already. You are gonna have some fun getting it all set up. :cophot: :gopo: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaSa Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 Hi there Fast working - well done! I can only see one problem: There is no vapor barrier between the insulation and the (warm) room and you used regular GibBord instead of the green stuff for bath rooms. This means the warm, humid air from your fish room will slowly transmit through the Gib and at some stage will reach the dew point somewhere inside the insulation. Here the insulation will get wet over time which will render it useless and will cause mould. Most likely in winter - see examples below. The other problem are the flush boxes and the cables. There is no way to seal this properly and the process will be even greater here. Little example: Fish room temperature = 25C Relative humidity = 60% Dew point = 16C Fish room temperature = 23C Relative humidity = 50% Dew point = 12C A vapor barrier will keep the inner air and the outer air separate so there is no transmission and therefore no accumulation of moisture. Building paper on the outside only protects the insulation from water, that manages to penetrate the outside of a building. It is NOT a vapor barrier; this has to be installed on the "warm" side of the insulation = behind the plaster board. External flush boxes and external wiring don't penetrate the vapor barrier and the little holes to mount the flush boxes can be sealed with silicone. Cheers, JaSa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tread50 Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 If you use a good sealant/undercoat on the gib and then paint with enamal paint it will give a good vapour seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mycoolmc Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 If you use a good sealant/undercoat on the gib and then paint with enamal paint it will give a good vapour seal. Yeah thats what I figured, have discussed with a couple people and they reckon it'll ok with the undercoat and 3 top coats of paint, just have to wait and see i guess. JaSa - interesting reading, if I start to run into problems ill just have to think of something. So I have only really started to work again on this last weekend and after work as the sparky thought he could take a holiday :sml2:, so in the mean time I decided I would move one of the tanks into our house but the misses didn't agree. She thought it was ugly so off we went to get a "pretty" tank. Came home with a Aqua one 400 Reef with Sump. Stocking is going to be male only and peacocks only to start with, currently has, Dragoonblood Orange and Coral Red, Lwanda, Ethlewenne, Jacobfreibergi, Lemon Jake and Ruby Red. Will be adding more next weekend. You can't really see it in the photo but there is now a nice grass algae forming on the top of the Bristlenoses cave. Last friday, started digging the trench through to the garage What a mission going through the vege garden, easily a meter deep. (Now missing half my veges too:)) Left hand wall and back gib stopped Sanded and first coat of paint and trimming on top and bottom, you can really see now how unstraight the walls were. Sat and Sun Wiring all finished and circuit breaker installed in the garage Progress from last night Now just need to finish the Gib top coat then sand, undercoat and paint. Should be ready for moving in tanks on Sunday:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaSa Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 JaSa - interesting reading, if I start to run into problems ill just have to think of something Dehumidifier would be the easiest - but it will be a running cost. On the other hand, dry air is easier to heat then humid air which is a plus. Guess you will find out Have fun, JaSa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mycoolmc Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 Dehumidifier would be the easiest - but it will be a running cost. On the other hand, dry air is easier to heat then humid air which is a plus. Guess you will find out Have fun, JaSa Would you run the dehumidifier full time or just say a couple hours a day? Im not really too worried about a higher power bill if I need to run it full time. Also I figure that I will leave the roof uninsulated and no Gib so there will be more air flow out the top of the roof were it joins the walls. Sure in the winter my power will be more but at the moment the room is quite hot so won't cost much to heat in Summer im sure(If the bill gets to high in winter ill have to rethink). Also I am hoping that this will help keep the stink and humid air out? Will need to wait and see I guess:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 In a normal home 40% of heatloss is through the roof. If the walls are insulated that would be higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camtang Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 I am enjoying playing spot the heineken while I look at your pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaSa Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 You can get a dehumidifier where you can set the humidity. Picked one up from the Warehouse for $80 because it was scratched and their display unit 2 years ago. At 25C humans feel comfortable at around 50 to 55% humidity. I def. would insulate the roof. Every cent spent here will save you money in the long run. Have my roof insulated R2.8, the walls R2.6 and the floor + door R1.4. Heater or the cooling system hardly ever comes on... Cheers, JaSa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mycoolmc Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 I am enjoying playing spot the heineken while I look at your pics. :slfg: I am trying to not post photos with them in it so I don't look like an Alcoholic. :facepalm: Many Heinenkens may have been consumed in the making of this room:) You can get a dehumidifier where you can set the humidity. Picked one up from the Warehouse for $80 because it was scratched and their display unit 2 years ago. At 25C humans feel comfortable at around 50 to 55% humidity. I def. would insulate the roof. Every cent spent here will save you money in the long run. Have my roof insulated R2.8, the walls R2.6 and the floor + door R1.4. Heater or the cooling system hardly ever comes on... Ok so best plan would be to insulate roof with R3.2 (walls are R2.6) and have dehumidifier set to 55% or so. I would then also need an extractor fan installed to transfer air outside or would that not be necessary? Once this is done i shouldn't have moisture or mould issues? The only issue i have with this is that the room is already hot enough and insulating the roof will make it worse. Im assuming you have a system that you can set a temp and it will heat/cool as needed? Cheers Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaSa Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 A dehumidifier basically takes the water out of the air and dumps it in a container - no need for a extraction fan. In a nut shell and an ideal world: Insulation doesn't make a room hot or cold! It will only slow temperature transfer down. Means it will take longer for the temperature inside the room to match the outside temperature. On a hot day your room will stay at - lets say 25C - instead of heating up. Same during the cold night - it will stay at 25C. The more insulation; the longer the temperature can be maintained without intervention. This + the fact that all the water react as a thermal storage, will lead to very little temperature variations inside a perfect insulated space. Last night for example we had 10C outside. The air temperature inside my fish room dropped from 25C to 21C. The water temperature dropped just 1C down to 24C. This is with no heater activated to buffer the temperature fall. During the hot days between Xmas and New Year we had 28C. In my uninsulated garage it was (I guess) more like 35C. Inside air of fish room was max 27C at 5PM BUT the water didnt change much with 26C from it's target 25C - and the cooling system was off as well. Hope that helps, JaSa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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