dragonz1833 Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 http://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php?title=Normal normal eg what is getting sold and hi yellow http://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.p ... igh_Yellow that is not getting sold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonz1833 Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 brighter yellow is now considered hi yellow not dull like this http://www.trademe.co.nz/pets-animals/r ... 094375.htm u can tell that is going to have abit of spots and the yellow is not bright Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonz1833 Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 also what i have been told dont quote me on this is reason for undark bands is lower temps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Your referencing a wiki that anyone can alter? the photos i have provided are from John Mack and Ron Tremper. Your one on trade me currently (Mucky05) has heaps of black how can you say it is going to end up being a hi yellow when the colour fades? Not to mention its being sold as a male simply because you incubated it for one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 also what i have been told dont quote me on this is reason for undark bands is lower temps From what i have read of tremper is lower temp increases colour http://www.leopardgecko.com/effects-on-temperature Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonz1833 Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Some are not aware that temperature actually plays a significant role in the brightness of a leopard geckos colors. It has been shown that geckos incubated at lower temperatures will be darker than those incubated at higher temperatures. This offers breeders the ability to determine the intensity of the colors of their offspring. Since geckos incubated at lower temperatures are typically darker compared to their counterparts incubated at higher temperatures, it goes to reason that males are typically brighter than females. This has changed over the years however as the knowledge of temperature effects on color has made its rounds. so lower temps means less colour = darker so not as bright i have played with hot females cool females everything in between Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonz1833 Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 http://www.herpcenter.com/leopard-gecko ... ation.html is the source by the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Two questions: 1 What is the use of darker colours if it is only temporary and they all end up the same? 2 Have you in your incubation temperatures produced super females and who bought them thinking they would breed from them? The fading of the black bands occurs naturally as they mature to adult patterns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
young leos Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 he says how he gets pretty color girls about 4:30 mins in lizardlover 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reuben.a Posted November 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 i guess it all comes down to personal preference. i can name hundreds of good things about dragonz leos but then i can also say the same about alans. both are different but both still sit under the same category as a "high yellow". no need to argue about it i reckon as they are all stunning and a lot of hard work has clearly gone in to both. at the end of the day, dont buy it if its not what your after :thup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reuben.a Posted November 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 what do you guys think of this as a diy incubator? looks pretty simple, and by the looks of it would work well too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 You can use any sort of insulated container that is big enough for what you want to incubate. You need a source of heat and an accurate thermometer and thermostat. The hysteresis need to be about 0.5 degrees which means you need a fairly accurate thermostat. If you use an old fridge or similar you may need a fan to even out the heat a bit. One for males and one for females is good as well. I have two, each with 0.5 deg hysteresis and an electronic thermometer accurate to 0.1 deg C. One has a fan but I don't use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reptilez Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 What thermostats do you use? Would these work http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =660885409 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reuben.a Posted November 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 okay cool, ive got one of those reptaprobe thermostats, how are they? i have it on the leo tank and i hear it click on and off quite often. seems to keep the temp pretty constant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 I think both would be suitable for using on enclosures but the hysteresis is one degree on each. By the time you get a bit of lag each side you could have temperature variations of 3-4 degrees and this could be a problem particularly when incubating for males. You may find that the cost of buying a purpose made one would be about the same as an accurate thermostat. I had a couple that got munted in the quakes that I used on aquaria and they were about $340 each. They could be set to a hystersis of 0.1 deg C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reuben.a Posted November 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 crap haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reptilez Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 So incubators like Hovabators are more accurate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aotealotl Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 would that one work as well ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonz1833 Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 i use the herp nursary 2 will have some spareones for sale butmy friend had a set back and wont be here for another month Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exotic Aquatics Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 let me guess a hi yellow :lar: If your talking ta me dargonz it doesn't worry me what morph my leos are at the end of the day its still a leo and its mine not yours so dont worry about it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 The one I have is accurate to about 0.5 deg C but is electronic and I think the hovabator use bellows so I don't know about them. I used one for hatching turtles for a few years and it worked for that and I know people use them for reptiles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 I read somewhere that higher temperatures increase the black colouration. Can't remember where. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aotealotl Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 would that one work as well ? I guess that answers my own question Measure range: -40°C~+120°C Slew range of temperature: 1°C-30°C Resolution: 0.1°C Accuracy: ±1°C (-50°C~70°C) Power supply: 220V AC, 50/60Hz Power consumption: less than 3W Relay contact capacity: Cool(10A/250VAC);Heat(10A/250VAC) Data retention: Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonz1833 Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 i find lower temps increase black ,higher temps increase yellow might be diff for other ppl though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 I use them on some of my enclosures and the minimum hysteresis is 1deg C and the overall fluctuation getting on to 3 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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