Thr33Swords Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Hey Guys, My next plan for the tank is to add an automatic water change system. I already know how to build the overflow for the tank, but I had an idea for a DIY carbon filter for the water feed to the tank, and I just want some feedback on my design: The purpose of this of course is to remove the chlorine etc from the water before it is added to the tank. With a 0.7 litre and hour dripper, I will effectively be doing a 25% water change every week. What I need to know is, will this design below work, and if so, how long will 1/2 a kg of activated carbon last before needing to be replaced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Some questions: How much chlorine is in the water? Does carbon remove chloramines and how much of them is present? How will you know when the carbon has been "used up"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thr33Swords Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 How much chlorine is in the water? There is an average of 1.27 mg/L of Chlorine in the water. Does carbon remove chloramines and how much of them is present? Carbon does remove Chloramines, but it requires a very long exposure and a lot of Carbon to do so, luckily no Chloramines are used to treat the water in our area (from the 2012 WaterCare Annual Water Quality Report). How will you know when the carbon has been "used up"? That was one of the questions I was hoping to get an answer to in the OP. I know that inside an aquarium filter you should replace the carbon (if you use it of course) every 4 weeks or so, so I think I will just make it a part of my monthly tank maintenance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 I would recommend installing a filter cartridge before it goes into the tank, you can get them from just water etc in saying that, probably better to have a drum that ages the water then a pump that turns on at your switch, that pumpws water in, then the water drain automatically. in that plan you have, where and how does the water drain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thr33Swords Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 I would recommend installing a filter cartridge before it goes into the tank, you can get them from just water etc in saying that, probably better to have a drum that ages the water then a pump that turns on at your switch, that pumpws water in, then the water drain automatically. in that plan you have, where and how does the water drain? The problem I have is I live in a townhouse, and I don't have any space for a large drum for the water to age in, which is why I am looking into an in line filter of sorts to get rid of the chlorine instead. The reason for my design above is because I already have most of the materials necessary to build it, so it will cost me next to nothing where an in line filter system will require me to spend more money to get set up. And since I have recently lost my job, money is a luxury right now. (I've got a new one though, but still). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 The problem I have is I live in a townhouse, and I don't have any space for a large drum for the water to age in, which is why I am looking into an in line filter of sorts to get rid of the chlorine instead. The reason for my design above is because I already have most of the materials necessary to build it, so it will cost me next to nothing where an in line filter system will require me to spend more money to get set up. And since I have recently lost my job, money is a luxury right now. (I've got a new one though, but still). fair call. in that case, making do with twhat you have is always good and efficient, i do the same, i always keep old fittings, hoses etc. ok, your set up looks ok, carbon however i am not familiar with in terms of chlorine removal. your system seems sound, except for the carbon bit which i cannot advise. drain for your tank? where does the water drain to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thr33Swords Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 fair call. in that case, making do with twhat you have is always good and efficient, i do the same, i always keep old fittings, hoses etc. ok, your set up looks ok, carbon however i am not familiar with in terms of chlorine removal. your system seems sound, except for the carbon bit which i cannot advise. drain for your tank? where does the water drain to? I have been reading up on using carbon for chlorine removal, and for the most part I have found that it is very effective at removing chlorine. In my head, I believe it should work since the water will be moving rather slowly (0.7 litres per hour) so the carbon will have a lot of time to adsorb the chlorine. The air stone at the end is there just to help get rid of any chlorine that didn't get adsorbed. As for draining the tank, I am planning on building a PVC overflow system, like this: That will drain into a 50 litre container under the tank, which I can empty once a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 I have been reading up on using carbon for chlorine removal, and for the most part I have found that it is very effective at removing chlorine. In my head, I believe it should work since the water will be moving rather slowly (0.7 litres per hour) so the carbon will have a lot of time to adsorb the chlorine. The air stone at the end is there just to help get rid of any chlorine that didn't get adsorbed. As for draining the tank, I am planning on building a PVC overflow system, like this: That will drain into a 50 litre container under the tank, which I can empty once a day. Cool, yeah cos you will need a drain and the drain has to be on the sump, the sump will over flow. thats cool in that case, the carbon should do the trick. however, i would position the aerator on top of the carbon, so your best bet is to reduce the chlorine as much as possible before it goes through carbon. THsi way you can prolonge the carbons life, air is a renewable resource so you can use as much of it as possible. I would use a fine airstone too, more surface area to dissipate chlroine. but looks good. i have never regretted setting up my auto changer, it changes your life and hobby lol literally! spending time to maintain the tank drops significantly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thr33Swords Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Thanks Henward, and great idea with putting the air stone first! yeah I can imagine how amazing it will be not having to do manual water changes haha... especially a big tank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Copied from a previous post & edited: When you add chlorine to water you get hypochlorous acid which reacts with nitrogen compounds like ammonia,urea and the amines (in all proteins) and forms monochloramine. When you add more chlorine you get dichloramine and even more you get trichloramine. All these (and other reactions) form part of the "chlorine demand" in the water. You cannot get free available chlorine until this "chlorine demand" is satisfied. Therefore when the reaction is pushed towards trichloramine there will be virtually no monochloramine present. In some states in the US they treat the water with monochloramine (made by reacting chlorine with ammonia) because chlorine will react with other impurities in the water and form some compounds that are not so nice (such as acetone) where as monochloramine will not. Monochloramine is not as effective in treating water as chlorine which is used in NZ but is still a strong oxidising agent. When people complain that the chlorine in a swimming pool is too strong and it is burning their eyes the problem usually is that the free available chlorine has been used up by contaminants in the water (such as urea) and this has pushed the chloramines back towards the monochloramine and this is what is burning their eyes. The problem is fixed by adding more chlorine. When you allow water to stand or aerate it to get rid of the chlorine the chloramines all move back to monochloramine and this will react with your fish the same as an under chlorinated swimming pool will with your eyes. Chlorine and all chloramines can be converted to more harmless chemicals with the addition of sodium thiosulphate which is the active ingredient you are buying from the petshop with dechlorinating products. Drinking water will contain various impurites that add to the chlorine demand and will form chloramines and other compounds. Ammonia is a bi product of the reaction when adding thiosulphate to chlorinated water. Chlorine only is used to sanitize water supplies in NZ and when you add chlorine you will always get chloramines unless you use distilled water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M@. Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Im sure you would be doing this if it was possible - but is there any way you can get your overflow to a drain, or even out a window? I know I would end up forgetting to empty the container and flood my house :-? Plus means you dont have to turn the system off if you go away for a week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thr33Swords Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Copied from a previous post & edited: *snip*. Interesting, I guess some more googling is in order. However, from all the other threads and articles I have read on a constant automatic water change system, I feel confident that the carbon should be able to make the water safe for the fish. Im sure you would be doing this if it was possible - but is there any way you can get your overflow to a drain, or even out a window? I know I would end up forgetting to empty the container and flood my house :-? Plus means you dont have to turn the system off if you go away for a week Yeah unfortunately that is not possible with the location of the tank, and the landlord is extremely anal (counted all the pin holes in the walls, one by one) so drilling holes in things is not something I am likely to try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insect Direct Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 People selling carbon filters on tm claim they remove " 99% of the Chlorine, Chloroform, Chloramines, & Fluoride removal. " http://www.trademe.co.nz/home-living/ki ... 964231.htm Couldn't one use something like the above instead of dechlorinating products ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thr33Swords Posted June 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 People selling carbon filters on tm claim they remove " 99% of the Chlorine, Chloroform, Chloramines, & Fluoride removal. " http://www.trademe.co.nz/home-living/ki ... 964231.htm Couldn't one use something like the above instead of dechlorinating products ... I have seen those, and the only reason I am trying to make my own is because I am on a budget and have most of the materials I need already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueether Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 When I had a drip water changer I didn't dechlorinate the water. I can't remember what the rate was maybe about 250 - 300 L per week :dunno: Now I just turn the hose (fast trickle) on once or twice a week for an hour or three and do somewhere from 25 - 50% change using the same type of overflow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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