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Belgianbiscuit

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Hi,

I bought a brand new canister filter that I am planning on using.

I guess you answered the question by saying that I have to take filter media out :-)

I still have a big internal filter that I can use. Will attach one of missus' pantyhose's to it.

Cheers

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I wouldn't put the filter in until you are sure that the resins etc are finished leaching toxins. I mean, just to be safe, since you have put so much time and effort into it, would be a shame for something to go wrong now.

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could chuck some carbon in the filter may help clear up leachate quicker. i wouldnt worry too much if water gets behind the background it will eventually anyway and will make its way inside they polystyrene between the beads. it will be a very good biological filter. you may get some mulm buil- up behind there but dont worry its harmless and you dont see the back of the tank anyway

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Would it be possible to cut a section from the rear of the "tree." I am i the same mind as living art on this, a great design no question. What you must have is good movement of water around and through the heater. Otherwise you may regret your marvelous creation, and I would not like that a all. It would also be beneficial to have an adequate overspill from the top of the tree. Perhaps this would facilitate water movement and distribution of the newly heated water. Please consider the vent into the heater at the base of the tree should always be kept clear of waste, plant leaves and fish as a suction could be created that could slowly restrict the flow.

Should you not have good water flow over the heater the reasons have already been advised.

I wish you well and I am sure you will come up with a great solution

cre8 units like this and we will be forming a que at your door

great stuff

:sage:

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Thanks Stuart,

I think the flow will be fine. I have catered for some overspill at top of tree and have drilled vent holes discretely all over the tree.

I have a question regarding pH for you fish lovers.

Seems like Palmy water is around 7.0 to 7.5 which is probably ok.

I have been refilling my tank now everyday with water since Wednesday. Initially my pH was about 8.5 in tank then a little less.

I am using a test kit with drops and a vial.

I then added an old filter which only has a carbon cartridge in it and I think this has actually increased my pH.

I am not sure how good the carbon still is so I may buy some new stuff today as a fellow member told me it should help.

I was wondering how long it would normally take for the pH to go down after installing a DIY background and do I actually replace water everyday? Or would I be better of to leave it for a few days?

What I am trying to do now is just ensure that the background is not putting anything harmful in water. I haven't started cycling process.

Cheers

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I doubt the carbon will take anything out that will effect the pH at this stage but the flow should mean better 'contact' so more comes out of the concrete thus increasing the pH.

I would change the water daily untill the pH has lowered a bit more, then move to every few days. I think I can remember reading that it can take weeks for the pH to stabilise from a new cement background.

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it can take awhile for the water to get into any unsealed areas where the concrete is

i found changing water every 3 days for a few weeks was best way of reducing the effect the lime was having on ph

while it is high cycling process will be harder

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it can take awhile for the water to get into any unsealed areas where the concrete is

i found changing water every 3 days for a few weeks was best way of reducing the effect the lime was having on ph

while it is high cycling process will be harder

:sage: what he said

nice background, I do like the moa tree... :wink:

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After all that hard work it turns out that the front of my glass is full of scratches. I did not notice it until I actually turned the lights on.

I am not sure if it will look any different with water in it. Tank is empty right now.

My background has been glued to back so it will not come out without damaging it.

I don't think there is a way to remove these scratches and I put too much time and effort in to be stuck with a tank that will look ugly.

Guess the best thing is to remove the front panel.

I don't want to do this myself. Is there anyone in Palmerston North who can fix this for me?

Cheers

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Best way to fix the scratches is to purchase this, apply coats of it on the glass until the scratches are no longer visible.

apathy-280x210.jpg

Seriously, like blue says they'll be a lot less visible when full of water. And you'll only notice the scratches that don't disappear if they contents of the tank look like crap and you're looking for them.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Looks good now, but as others have said I too think a different substrate could look better.

Wow! That tank would look epic with some sand from a beach or a darker sand from the west coast!
How about something about this colour from a local river

DSCN0198.JPG

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