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Obstacle's Nano Cube

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I am doing 12hr photoperiod with no problems

I have a question about photo period - is 12 hours too long to start with? My white lights are on from 8am-8pm with ramp up and down taking 4 hours ea :cofn: ch way. I'm wondering if this is too much light for now?
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OK, so I cut back to 10 hours white and 12 hours blue. It's only been a day but things are getting better already. What I thought was frogspawn isn't, it's something like it but with green stems and purple tips instead of the other way round. I also just picked up an RO/DI unit so I'll be buying some salt tomorrow so I don't have to trek to the beach every couple of days. I can also use it for top up water.

Ammonia is still .5ppm but that's now the reading before the water changes not after. I'm still doing about 10L water change each day. Still no nitrites or nitrates at any major levels so I'm not too worried. The clowns and anemone seems happy today.

What I thought was frogspawn isn't, it's something like it but with green stems and purple tips instead of the other way round.

That actually sounds more like a frogspawn hah.

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Like this or? Must just be another Euphyllia if not

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Just gave my lighting controller a bath in salt water by not being careful. :facepalm: :tears: Drying it in a cup of rice as we speak. It seems to turn the lights on to full but nothing else. It might have to do until I can get a replacement.

  • Author
Ouch, drying it after a dip in saltwater will probably be a waste of time, a new one needed me thinks......

I think you're right. I've ordered a replacement. It's currently running the lights at 100% so at least I can control them coming on and off. I'll just run them hot for a few days until the replacement arrives. That was an expensive mistake to make but not as bad as it could have been - my drivers are still dry.

I still wouldn't, unless you can get inside to inspect, there will be corrosion inside, and when the humidy is high it will continue to corrode and will be dangerous. But, if you can look inside and saltwater hasn't got in, may be ok.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Controller is still going strong. :thup:

The split anemone looked like either half wasn't going to make it for a while there but I've increased the light (now that they're used to it) and been target feeding every second day and it's finally got it's colour back. I'll take some photos tonight if I can find the camera.

I also have a little frogspawn frag that broke off in transit that I figured was a goner but it has bounced back to life on the sandbed and doubled in size. I'm thinking I might sell the big frogspawn and set this frag up to start a whole new plate.

All in all I'm feeling a lot more optimistic about the tank and it's inhabitants which now includes a blue legged hermit which is mowing down the algae outbreak I had due to the increased lights.

  • Author

That actually sounds more like a frogspawn hah.

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTM0cmHVCp8ANZTyTsi_2dZ7nUmvnZnyOIlElWclrQ5Z4v9K7cv9AcSNjWpuA

Like this or? Must just be another Euphyllia if not

actually it looks exactly like that. The photos I've seen on the net often have the opposite colouring for frogspawn.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

a few pictures - none of very good quality but it gives a view of what's going on for now.

I'm having quite the green algae outbreak but I've got some snails and a hermit going to work on it at the moment and it appears to be running out of steam. The anemone both moved to places they seem to prefer and have stayed put for now. One of them is being rehomed this week, hopefully. I want to get hold of an acro or monti frag to start on the top of the zoo covered rock.

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  • Author

the next one is going to be a rimless 1200 x 1200 x 400 with an overflow in the middle and custom stand / light hood. I don't need a table in the dining room. I do need a job before I can invest in that though.

the next one is going to be a rimless 1200 x 1200 x 400 with an overflow in the middle and custom stand / light hood. I don't need a table in the dining room. I do need a job before I can invest in that though.

that a nice size tank....it whould be cool..to see ..full of soft and hard corals....and you can walk around the whole tank.

that whould be awsome... !drool: !drool: !drool:

Your tank is looking awesome. :thup:

I'm thinking about getting the same lighting kit as you.

Question... Do the LEDS get hot enough to need the heatsink? Just thinking I don't want to have to buy it if it doesn't need it.

  • Author
I an assuming you arnt running a sump? Just wondering ... and just running a Skimmer? Also the leds are they the dimmable kit set?

Yeah, just an in tank skimmer. I got a Hydor Slim Skim Nano from the states. It worked out to be the same price as a tunze nano skimmer locally so if I were to do it again I'd go tunze but this looks better :)

I ordered the dimmable LED kit but didn't use the drivers that come standard as they're horrible. I used a light controller that uses a PWM signal for controlling the dimming so I got the meanwell p series drivers to match. If i were to do it again I'd order the LEDs and heatsinks only from aquastyleonline.com and get the meanwell drivers locally.

Your tank is looking awesome. :thup:

I'm thinking about getting the same lighting kit as you.

Question... Do the LEDS get hot enough to need the heatsink? Just thinking I don't want to have to buy it if it doesn't need it.

They get hot but not enough to really need the heatsink. If they were on a ventilated piece of metal with a bit of air flow they'd be fine. With the fan running the heatsink is cold to the touch with the LEDs running at 80% max power. I read somewhere on reef central that most LEDs don't get anywhere near hot enough to cause problems for themselves.

Yeah, just an in tank skimmer. I got a Hydor Slim Skim Nano from the states. It worked out to be the same price as a tunze nano skimmer locally so if I were to do it again I'd go tunze but this looks better :)

I ordered the dimmable LED kit but didn't use the drivers that come standard as they're horrible. I used a light controller that uses a PWM signal for controlling the dimming so I got the meanwell p series drivers to match. If i were to do it again I'd order the LEDs and heatsinks only from aquastyleonline.com and get the meanwell drivers locally.

They get hot but not enough to really need the heatsink. If they were on a ventilated piece of metal with a bit of air flow they'd be fine. With the fan running the heatsink is cold to the touch with the LEDs running at 80% max power. I read somewhere on reef central that most LEDs don't get anywhere near hot enough to cause problems for themselves.

Ohhh thanks. What's wrong with the drivers that came with them?

  • Author
Ohhh thanks. What's wrong with the drivers that came with them?

They were underpowered and tended to flicker a lot. I also didn't like having to turn dials to fade them. I think if I wasn't picky they'd be fine but the meanwells create better light at the same power output.

They were underpowered and tended to flicker a lot. I also didn't like having to turn dials to fade them. I think if I wasn't picky they'd be fine but the meanwells create better light at the same power output.

Where did you buy your meanwells from?

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