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Easy plant to grow?


Squirt

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What sort of tubes? T8 I assume.

With that lighting there are not many what I would call fast growing plants.

You could plant Hygrophila. Crypts would be great but are not fast growing until they are well established.

Are you a member of any club? or do you subscribe to Aquarium World mag?

I had an article about low light tanks in the recent edition.

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Here is an awesome article about tank lighting and how the Watts per Gallon theory is today pretty much obsolete.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/lighting/85667-par-data-spiral-power-saver-bulbs-2.html

YOUR LIGHT

You say that you "like the low light, and anything more would be too much for your room". You can't use this a basis for your tank if you want to grow HC or glosso etc. I would also tell you to forget about anything you've heard about the "watts per gallon" rule. It's antiquated and it holds no meaning.

WPG rules would only work if everyone used the exact same kind of light, with the exact same kind of efficiency, placed exactly the same height above the same size tank. You've already encountered that the light you wanted to use didn't fall neatly into everyone's rule of thumb. Also, just because one person used 27watts of a certain bulb on a similar sized tank doesn't mean it's going to work in your situation... for many reasons.

What exactly is low light? What exactly is high light? The amount of watts isn't going to give you the answer. Here's an example: I have 100 watts of metal halide lighting above my 5gal tank (really). That comes out to be 20 watts per gallon. Is that high light? Or could it be low light?

Many would say that's definitely high light. But, the answer is that it is low light, given the way it is set up. And you can only know that if you measure the light in a different way: a PAR meter. A PAR meter doesn't measure LUX or Lumens, those are human vision quantities and don't mean anything to plants. A PAR meter measures the amount of light that is available for photosynthesis. It has a funky unit of measurement because it counts the number of photons that strike a surface over time.

Now, I know you probably don't have a PAR meter. But, I do and I'd be interested in helping you determine exactly what bulb might give you enough light, given your fixture and distance from the water. I can tell you immediately that you're going to have to have more than 15watts of the bulb that has been mentioned earlier. If you're interested, send me a private message and we can work out the specifics, I have an idea.

Follow-Up: Household CF Bulbs, Growing HC, and Non-CO2...

I wanted to follow up to this thread to share some more ideas on lighting with household CF bulbs. AirSong originally had posted asking how much light she should use to light her 2.5gal non-CO2 tank... She was interested in growing HC or other carpeting plants. To her, I answered that she would probably need more than 15 watts. I didn't want to leave it at that however. I set out to investigate and find the right answer. As such, I duplicated her setup: tank size, fixture type, water depth, distance of light from the water, etc... and then took some measurements.

The answer is that you can use anything from 14 watts to 27 watts, and beyond. It all depends on how you set it up...

I personally believe that many hobbyists underestimate the need to accurately quantify their light - especially when they are plagued by unexplained algae or dying plants. The growth in non-CO2 tanks is quite slow and getting feedback takes too long. It's good to know from the start that your lighting is in a good range, so you can eliminate it as a variable if your tank is "less than desirable".

As I discovered, these CF bulbs (14-23 watts) seem fairly tame, but how you use them can mean the difference of not having enough light, and having way too much. And believe it or not, that difference can manifest itself just by moving the light up or down a few inches.

I created a several slides to show what I'm talking about. I hope this will help illustrate how things like reflector type and distance make a big difference, and can't be overlooked - it is also the reason one person's success with a particular bulb may not be your success.

(Hopefully, you've turned off that pesky "image resize" in your user preferences - if not, make sure to unscale for readability. )

Diagram1 - Household CF Bulbs

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Diagram2 - Measuring Household CF Bulbs

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Diagram3 - 19W, 5500K Example

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Diagram4 - Does Color Temperature Matter?

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Diagram5 - 23 Watt Extremes

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Diagram6 - Reflector & Orientation

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Diagram7 - 14 Watt Example

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  • 1 year later...

Supasi I read that thread with the inputs from 4x4 on the CFL par measurements.

Very very interesting.

I've been trying to grow a nice little ten gallon tank using those principles.

The True measure in the case of my little experiment will be if the bunnings lamps manage to grow the HC into a carpet i painstakingly planted last week by using a combination of cutting ten long stems From Four Seasons petshop in Glenn Innes into individual cuttings and also tying some of the plants down using those plant weights to see if a tied down Mother plant out performs the cuttings

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By the Way an easy to grow / fast growing stem plant would have to be Hygrophila Polysperma. Really hardy plant , great for new set ups , versatile to the max.

Trimming and replanting the tops gives a really nice bushy look. Growing it along the Substrate or just letting it spread across the surface gives you the 'all in one' uses of this plant.

Cuttings are easy to strike.

It is a cheap plant to buy a lot of.

Truly the best plant I've had any experience of in terms of quick reward for effort and a confidence builder for new plant gardeners.

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Im liking a bit of rotala I gat called "Rotala macaranda" which isn't :bounce: leaves are long and skinny but still have a red tinge (except in my nano tank where its a vivid green) grows very fast and quite pretty in a 400L (very) low tech planted community.

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Im liking a bit of rotala I gat called "Rotala macaranda" which isn't :bounce: leaves are long and skinny but still have a red tinge (except in my nano tank where its a vivid green) grows very fast and quite pretty in a 400L (very) low tech planted community.

I thought the macaranda variety had broader leaves??

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