AquaVitamins Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 Heyy, i was just think about how fast the water leaves the tank when Im doing a gravel clean and water change. What could i do to slow the water speed, but still have a good enough suck to clean with? I was thinking of using a thinner tube, like an airline or something, but with a larger attachment on the end. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 The less water the less suction and the smaller water changes. Water changes are good. Or get a bigger tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwiplymouth Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 I agree. By the time you have gravel vac'ed half your tank you should have removed 20-30% of the water. Vac the other half of the tank the following week. It works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 or put your finger over the end of the hose to stop water and move nozzle. :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim r Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 or buy a battery powered one with a sock over the outlet and lose no water at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaNs Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 Or put it in a container and let it settle then chuck the water back in...just change your water IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwiplymouth Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 or buy a battery powered one with a sock over the outlet and lose no water at all. i was just think about how fast the water leaves the tank when Im doing a gravel clean and water change. Sorta defeats the purpose of of doing a gavel vac and a water change at the same time don't you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firefish Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 My dad put 2 little pieces of metal either side of the hose and screwed them together. It narrowed that point of the hose, slowing the water. Hope that mades sense? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreams Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 You can get a black plastic tap for the end of the hose, then u can control the flow n also stop it to move buckets (if thats how your doing it) im not sure where to get them (i got given mine) , but i think they're part of garden irrigation bits n pieces, maybe try a garden center and ask them for one to fit your hose. hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 or home brewing shop has a toggle to fit on sypon hose so you can limit the flow and stop to move to next bottle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Romeo Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 I find using a narrow headed syphon the best, it'll suck a lot of gravel up into it and get clogged, but you'll be able to do the entire tank with one bucket. You just need to keep your finger over the bucket end to control the flow and stop it to let the stones fall out. I've tried with a few different sized syphons, and the larger ones just suck ALL the water up and leave all the mulm behind - don't go for bigger if you want to reduce water use, it's the exact opposite. The diameter of the head and tube are inversely proportional to the sucking performance. If you've got a big fat head, and a thin tube then you've got very little volume of water pulling through the tube. But if you've got a narrow head and a fat tube you've got a big heavy volume of water sucking out into the bucket, and a smaller sucking area at the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 The velocity of the water entering the siphoning end is directly proportional to the area of the opening so you need to get the right balance between the area of the opening, the size of the hose and the head of water (the difference in height between the top of the tank and the water level in the bucket). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 if you increase the flow or get the flow circulating right you won't need to vac. I have two filters so i put an outlet at either end of the tank & the spraybar returns the water in the middle so all the waste gets sucked up by the filters. I don't have a vac, i used to use one in my smaller tanks but since i got my larger tank i have not done any "vaccing". I have white arogonite as a substrate so you would see if it was dirty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aquatopia Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 Sorta defeats the purpose of of doing a gavel vac and a water change at the same time don't you think? who said the two events have to occur at the same time ? just as long as they occur. and for the person who wants to be as meticulous about the gravel cleaning as aquavitimins, it seems a good option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aquatopia Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 if you increase the flow or get the flow circulating right you won't need to vac. I have two filters so i put an outlet at either end of the tank & the spraybar returns the water in the middle so all the waste gets sucked up by the filters. I don't have a vac, i used to use one in my smaller tanks but since i got my larger tank i have not done any "vaccing". I have white arogonite as a substrate so you would see if it was dirty. i reckon you would be amazed at how small particles can get underneath the substrate and form a sludge. IMO not vaccing gravel is risky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 i reckon you would be amazed at how small particles can get underneath the substrate and form a sludge. IMO not vaccing gravel is risky. i have not gravel vaced for maybe 3 years & haven't lost a fish from that tank due to illness. I have only lost 1 or 2 fish from this tank but that was due to injuries from other fish. the substrate, being bright white shows all specs of dirt & there simply are none. With the fish swimming around they also stir up the water & as the particles float around the flow sends them to the filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aquatopia Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 i have not gravel vaced for maybe 3 years & haven't lost a fish from that tank due to illness. I have only lost 1 or 2 fish from this tank but that was due to injuries from other fish. the substrate, being bright white shows all specs of dirt & there simply are none. With the fish swimming around they also stir up the water & as the particles float around the flow sends them to the filter. Im impressed ! And amazed :-? And i DO believe if it aint broke dont fix it so if it works for you all good. May not work for everyone though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix44 Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 just grow a million plants in your tank, and you will not need to vac your gravel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aquatopia Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 just grow a million plants in your tank, and you will not need to vac your gravel. i have heard that before phoenix44 - whats the reasoning behind it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix44 Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 the plant roots convert the nitrogenous compounds and use them up. they also use up a ton of the nitrates. I don't think ive siphoned my tank in over a year... even when i moved house, and shifted the tank - the gravel still stayed there.water changes are far more fun when you dont have to muck around with the gravel :lol: the muck in the gravel are great ferts too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aquatopia Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 the plant roots convert the nitrogenous compounds and use them up. they also use up a ton of the nitrates. I don't think ive siphoned my tank in over a year... even when i moved house, and shifted the tank - the gravel still stayed there.water changes are far more fun when you dont have to muck around with the gravel :lol: the muck in the gravel are great ferts too. Is there a certain percentage of covering you need, or are specific plants more suitable ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix44 Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 I just cover everything :lol: heavy root feeders and plants that reproduce with runners are good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aquatopia Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 I just cover everything :lol: heavy root feeders and plants that reproduce with runners are good. some names ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix44 Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 sagittaria crypts swords tiger lotus and other plants with rhizobiums on them (even the hydroponically grown ones) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aquatopia Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 sagittaria crypts swords tiger lotus and other plants with rhizobiums on them (even the hydroponically grown ones) Thanks. Are any of them african cichlid proof ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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