livingart Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 I need to build a large tank about 3 metres x 1.2 x 1.2 metres glass will probably be too costly so i am looking for alternatives have looked at the ply and fibreglass ones on MFK and wondered if a 100mm x 100mm tanalised timber frame with 100mm thick polystyrene inserts covered in fibreglass would work also looking at 2 glass or acrylic panels for the front, ideas on thickness, height please any thoughts ideas on this would be appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaNs Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 Dads doing some huge tanks for the Trout center, ill ask him in the morning what they are using. What are the poly inserts for? Ply and fglass would be fine. Id be tempted to do a acrylic window over glass due to flexing issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted January 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 polystyrene will replace the plywood thanks for asking your dad hans still got the palmas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted January 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 Why not juss di concrete? lol i want a tank that can be moved easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 Std Annealed Float Glass will need to be 34mm+, acrylic 50mm+ - glass may work out cheaper and will be more robust. Use low-iron glass so it's as clear as the acrylic (adds about 10% to the price). Toughened Glass will need to be 15mm+, again use low iron. The price usually doubles for toughened glass. Most of the acrylic panels at the National Aquarium are pretty scratched after only 8 years. Glass also won't flex like acrylic. Years ago I built a tank 3000 x 950 (viewing window size) using a 19mm front panel (which was a bit thin). It only had a safety factor of 2.2 but worked fine. For public aquariums a minimum safety factor of 3.8 needs to be observed or public liability insurance or general insurance might be voided if the tank should break - and if someone gets hurts... The above panels are calculated with a safety factor of 3.8 This tank is now 8 years old - no leaks or breaks and has been moved a couple of times. It's a steel frame with polyester fibreglass over 38mm ply. Fibreglass over wooden frame/polystyrene composite works really well. You'll need to use high-density polystyrene though as it's considerably stronger. Also, you'll need polyester resign, not standard epoxy. The older style epoxy reacts with the polystyrene and isn't waterproof (suffers from osmosis). Polyester doesn't react with the poly and is waterproof without sealing. Use a good quality hardwood for the frame. If you want some really good advice on how to make tanks like this I can put you in touch with the guys who made the original National Aquarium tanks - made using fibreglass over a wooden/polystyrene composite. These tanks were still going strong after 25 years. The only drawback to fibreglass over poly is how fragile the tank bottom and sides are. If you drop a rock or something falls over in the tank it can easily puncture the fibreglass surface. It's easy to patch but something to consider. The tanks are also incredibly light - it only takes 4 people to move a tank this size and it's not a struggle at all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted January 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 thank you warren the post i was waiting for will take a contact for the guy who built the original tanks happy new year mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David R Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 Depending on where you're going to put the tank you could use ply on 1-3 sides and just have a big viewing window on the front (or both long sides). That would save on the costs a bit. Although I do like Mystics idea, a big concrete block tank (a-la JohnPTC's arapima tank on MFK) would be fantastic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaNs Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 They are using concrete. Got the plans here also. Could use a water tank like you did with the eels? Go chat to the pool guys next to you and see if they have any cheap pools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted January 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2009 i ha another 25,000 litre delivered the other day xmas pressie from Devan plastics heating it all year round is the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlid7 Posted January 2, 2009 Report Share Posted January 2, 2009 what about a small shipping container or something like that? line it out and cut a hole on one side for the front Or will that be to big Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockwork Posted January 2, 2009 Report Share Posted January 2, 2009 Fibreglass over wooden frame/polystyrene composite works really well. You'll need to use high-density polystyrene though as it's considerably stronger. Also, you'll need polyester resign, not standard epoxy. The older style epoxy reacts with the polystyrene and isn't waterproof (suffers from osmosis). Polyester doesn't react with the poly and is waterproof without sealing. Use a good quality hardwood for the frame. If you want some really good advice on how to make tanks like this I can put you in touch with the guys who made the original National Aquarium tanks - made using fibreglass over a wooden/polystyrene composite. These tanks were still going strong after 25 years. if you use a polyester resin it will melt the poly i use epoxy resins for my pools and bodykits as it doesnt distort the poly base and all my pools and bodykits are water proof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted January 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2009 plans would be good to see hans thanks rockwork slow but sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted January 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockwork Posted January 2, 2009 Report Share Posted January 2, 2009 on the back side of your tank you might want to put some braces so the poly is not the only thing there (always a good idea to over engineer) but other than that looking good mark good to see you do do something lol great start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David R Posted January 2, 2009 Report Share Posted January 2, 2009 How do the legs attach to the horizontals at the top and bottom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted January 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2009 How do the legs attach to the horizontals at the top and bottom? attached with 5mm x 50mm galv angle post supports, screws 75mm 10mm galv screws also 6mm wood screws angled through joint to legs horizontals butt joint with galv screws 150mm x 12mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockwork Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 were are the update pics mark? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted January 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 need to sort out fibreglassing now building stand will take pics today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navarre Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 If you are making this, could you not put "bracing" down front and use smaller pieces of glass. Like windows...not as pretty but very strong easier to handle and source and safer? Just thinking out loud ( not really cause I am in my office alone and talking whilst typing isnt a good look when people walk past, they mutter things like physician heal thy self and its not that hard to tell the patients from the staff...surely) Anyway.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 By doing this it will drop the glass thickness required from 34mm to 24mm - quite a saving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted January 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 By doing this it will drop the glass thickness required from 34mm to 24mm - quite a saving. what about in the acrylc warren?was planning on 2 windows as the original i viewed was like thet 1 full sheet would look better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockwork Posted January 6, 2009 Report Share Posted January 6, 2009 you could do that and put small heavy wall box (25x25x6mm steal) frame round the window and up the midle of window then it wouldnt be in the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted January 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 update waiting on pricing on glass or acrylic so i can decide on 1 piece or 2 windows so i can finish frame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc360 Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 looking real good dude! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilli Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Cool cant wait to see it all set up 8) :bounce: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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