Spink Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 So obviously most people photograph their fish through glass, but I wondered if there was any way to ensure the photos coming out better by changing the glass type and quality? For example: is 6mm glass better for photographing through than 8mm/10mm? Is non reflective glass better? That sort of thing. If there is ANYONE out there who can give me some tips on the glass side of things, that would be great! Thanx in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkLB Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 Hi Spink. I'm waiting for Barrie to reply to this post I seem to remember him mentioning in an old thread something about a glass that has less of something in it, Silicon I think. This makes the glass better for photography but weakens it so it's no good for a large tank, so you make a small tank from it and temporarily put in the fish to be photographed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 I don't know anything about the optical qualities of glass..... but I do most of my photos with the camera right up against the glass. Partly to get close enough to my fish, partly to avoid issues with reflection from the flash. I suspect non-reflective glass would actually be worse. One thing I have been wanting to try over summer is a tip I was told by a freshwater photographer friend: Put the camera in a click clack container and submerge it in a stream! Apparently the click clack plastic is very good optically, and your camera is safe from the water. He does some very awesome shots with the camera half-in/half out of the water, so it shows both levels. Looks very fancy and like it would involve an expensive waterproof camera, but just involves kitchenware! Not exactly what you were asking though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_W Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 When I take my photos, I make sure that the camera can't see the gap between the surface of the water and the light (easy for me I just fill the tank past where the hood starts). This stop the camera over exposing from the aquarium lights. I have the room pitch black. so there is no reflection on the glass. I DONT use the flash, but play around with the auto set white balance function on the camera normally appear as "day light, cloudy, auto etc etc and if you can control shutter speed, turn it up, this way if the fish moves it wont be blurry. And if your tank is bright enough turn down the ISO on the camera. Getting the fish in focus and not blurred is most important, all the colour can be fixed in photoshop :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrie Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 non refeflect is only 2mm thick The natural coloue of glass is blue/green depending on where the sand is sorced. this blue green colour is ion in the glass. You can make a photo tank out of low ion glass which hold the fish to a smaller area therefore makeing focus a lot easier. Low ion glass is roughly twice the price of normal glass and IS the same strenght. As for taking photos... I will be good at it one day (says with fingers crossed) but at this stage I dont have the camera or experiance to advise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spink Posted December 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 I currently don't have a good camera of my own, but I have access to my father's one which is relatively good. The idea behind the question is for more of a smaller species tank type idea, with the front pane of glass made from whatever is best for taking good shots. So, so far I'm guessing back, bottom and sides can all be normal 6mm glass, but the front would need to be a low ion glass, as clear in colour as possible so as not to distort the actual colour of the fish. I would have thought non-reflective would be good so as not to have too much background light showing up on the glass when taking the shot, but I'm not sure. can you get a low ion non reflective glass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 I don't think the slight green tinge of the glass is an issue given you're taking the pic through the thinnest direction. You're pretty much worrying about #39 of difficulties with taking pictures of fish. And probably the easiest to correct with photoshop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrie Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 Non reflective is glass that the surface is slightly defused... obscure... so anything behind it by more than 20 mm or so will not have focus.... give up on that idea... 2mm is for picture frames not tanks of any size Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oeminx Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 One thing I have been wanting to try over summer is a tip I was told by a freshwater photographer friend: Put the camera in a click clack container and submerge it in a stream! Apparently the click clack plastic is very good optically, and your camera is safe from the water. ummm be very careful with the container you use, recently got a contain clamming to be water proof and was in no way water proof. Just a warning. Spink are you thinking of a phot tank or something a bit larger? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 ummm be very careful with the container you use, recently got a contain clamming to be water proof and was in no way water proof. Just a warning. It is a tall container only partly submerged.... if it had the lid on it would be very difficult to take the photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oeminx Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 o i see what you mean now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richms Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 When I was trying to photograph the tank, I had the room totally dark and had slave flashes on the 2 ends of the tank and the top above where I was taking the photo. No flash made it need a long exposure and the fish were just a blur. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spink Posted December 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 I wanted to have a photographic tank made, but now I'm considering a smaller species type tank that can be used for good photos as well - a specific photo tank might sit around for a bit, whereas a species tank with the right specs would get used more, more versatile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu :) Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 Want a tip from a pro? Buy a polarized filter to cut out the reflection and/or glare. http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam/User-Guide/filter/polarizer.html http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/tutorials/polarizers.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photographic_filter#Polarizer I shoot wide open but within a good hyperfocal range, use a single diffused flash shooting down through the water with enough output to wipe out any ill colours given off by the fluoros/MH tank light... and of course with a polarized filter to kill the reflections. Stu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simian Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 I believe that a photo tank is usually quite narrow front to back to keep the fish in focus and that you put it in front of your main tank which acts as a background. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firenzenz Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 I'd flag the polarizer personally, losing 1 1/2 stops outways any advantage the polarizer might add. Flag off the tank to reflections. Flat sided tanks up to 10mm thick are great, the curved or rounded tanks are obviously going to distort your image. I endeavour to shoot in a dark room with tank lights on , sit and wait in dark clothing, as I am often shooting plecs and hidey fish. Colour correction-whether glass or lights are easily sorted. The most important piece of glass is the lens. Often because of the nature of fish shooting "wide open" is the only choice as this will let you shoot at faster speeds. The optimum optics for most lenses is 2 stops down from wide open, and while many will be using macro lenses, then shooting as closed down as you can will give more depth of field-ie more in focus Unless you are using almost semi pro 'off camera' flash gear then I think the outcomes aren't as successful. I also go by the rationale that fish are top lit in nature. http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u3/f ... z/?start=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_W Posted December 18, 2008 Report Share Posted December 18, 2008 With flash By andrew_w Without By andrew_w By andrew_w Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoll Posted December 22, 2008 Report Share Posted December 22, 2008 While not _entirely_ on topic... ...just bought a new toy. An 8 odd megapixel digital camera with underwater case. A Fujifilm and they're going for a wee bit over $200 at most places. So, will have a bit of a play when I get around to it after Xmas. Will allow photo's while kayaking and snorkling, or in streams. And I'll have a wee bit of a play taking photo's from inside various of my fishtanks... no glare that way, which has always iritated me as I've never found a happy medium between flash with glare and no flash with blur. Gavin.... :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmsmith Posted December 22, 2008 Report Share Posted December 22, 2008 The best way to do it is have the room darkened, and use a flash on each side of the camera. They need to be timed so they work together at the same time. This way you don't need to worry about being close to the glass, and you'll have enough light to have a fast enough shutter speed that you get the fish still, not moving. It takes a long time to get it set up so you know how to make it work with your tank, but well worth it. I suppose you could do it using lamps also, but a pair of flashes work much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RixIce Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 put your fish into a wine glass and take photo :lol: works good for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simian Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 I want a wine glass to fit my Oscar :bounce: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted December 23, 2008 Report Share Posted December 23, 2008 I want a wine glass to fit my Oscar :bounce: Here you go... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob1066 Posted December 26, 2008 Report Share Posted December 26, 2008 Hi first time on forum. I think this site might interest you with your photography http://www.aquatic-photography.com/ Look under articles.I'm sure theres something here that will give you some ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkLB Posted December 26, 2008 Report Share Posted December 26, 2008 Welcome to the forum rob1066 and thanks for the link :bounce: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjafroglet Posted December 29, 2008 Report Share Posted December 29, 2008 Nice site, they have some great stuff on there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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