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tHEcONCH's Red Sea Max

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It should be - there are some photos a few pages back of happy anemones in RSM's - plus mine will get plenty of food too... :lol:

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oh i can do that i spend at least that on my tanks :lol:

sleep is over rated anyway

Then there's the other 3 x 4' freshwater tanks and the Turtle's to clean... and the female Oscar will bite you... :evil:

  • Author

I've made another couple of little mods that seem to make the skimmer run better. At John's suggestion, I've drilled two 2mm holes in the lid of the skimmer cup (through the centre moulding marks) so that the air-pressure doesn't stop the bubbles travelling up the flute, and I've also shifted my Phos-ex bag to the downstream side of the skimmer to try and keep the water level high in the skimmer chamber (it dropped when I removed the bio-filter bag), so we shall see how it goes now.

I can also report that the 'cooling' fan option is useless. It has no measurable effect - far more effective to just leave the front flat open.

Anyway, more news as it comes to hand...

I've done similar to you - but I moved the bag with carbon/phosphate remover to above the skimmer pump (where the mechanical filtration was - which I removed ages ago)- we seemed to get drops in water levels in the pump chamber which haven't happened since. I've also put cured pieces of rock in the chamber where the carbon and biofilter material go (still have the bio filer there at the mo)

We'll be drilling holes tonight (again at John's suggestion). Hopefully that will make it run a little better and stop that rattling noise when the lid pops up!

Everything seems tio be working ok though - water parameters fine and 0.0 Phosphate (on Salifert tests).

EDIT: have now moved the carbon/phosphate remover back to it's original position (in the gap after skimmer) as it was affecting skimmer function!)

  • Author

The tank water hit 31 degrees yesturday with an ambient room temperature of 24 degrees. TEH SUXXOR! I guess I'm going to have to buy a chiller - and depending upon what I find when I get home, maybe replace a few corals :(

I wish I'd built a different tank now. :-?

Lol, but if you hadn't got the tank you have, then you wouldn't know what you want would you?

Exactly like me. I thought i'd be fine with what i've got, but if I were to do it again, there would be ALOT of changes!

Maybe this time next year I'll look for another tank to "upgrade" to :)

  • Author

That's a fair point, but I think the Max should be a bit better sorted than what it is - there are a lot of glitsches in it. Its a bit like a Microsoft product - kind of works, but needs a few service packs along the way. Maybe there will be a few revisions in the next production run to help sort some of the problems out - lets hope if they do the parts are available as a retrofit kit.

my tank got to 31.5 :o

corals didnt look to happy yesterday but my torch today looks GREAT bigger and nicer colour than ever :-?

  • Author

Given the price of a chiller, I'm wondering if I don't just buy another heat pump/aircon unit for the house :lol:

Given the price of a chiller, I'm wondering if I don't just buy another heat pump/aircon unit for the house :lol:

It sounds like this could be an ambient temperature issue.. Have you tried air movement in and out of the room? Extractor in the ceiling perhaps? That would be a lot more cost effective than installing a chiller unit.

i've been checking the tank each time i get home, was 28 degrees today, i'm off to buy a little fan to clip on to the tank this weekend so i can switch it on while i'm at work.

The highest ive seen mine is 28, never seen it higher than that since i've stocked it. I've got a feeling that hardwood floors make a bit of difference (well if not for the temp, then definatly for the saltwater spills)

Conch I have an aquamedic all-in-one, not quite as fancy as the RSM but has a lot in common with it.

Currently I've got a cardboard fitted PC fan retrofitted onto the feeding tray set to come on when the lights come on. Keeps the tank (with the heater coming on every now and then) at a constant 25.0.

Does mean you have to do a bit more RODI top-up though.

After exams I'll be dremmeling a hole into the feeding tray and permanently setting the fan into it for a more tidy finish, then I'll be making 3 more hole into the actual hood to try and displace some of the heats from the lights (without causing anymore evaporation).

If you don't mind topping up daily (or if you have an ATO which I think I'll be investing in) you can't go past evaporative cooling with a PC fan :)

  • Author
Conch I have an aquamedic all-in-one, not quite as fancy as the RSM but has a lot in common with it.

Currently I've got a cardboard fitted PC fan retrofitted onto the feeding tray set to come on when the lights come on. Keeps the tank (with the heater coming on every now and then) at a constant 25.0.

Does mean you have to do a bit more RODI top-up though.

After exams I'll be dremmeling a hole into the feeding tray and permanently setting the fan into it for a more tidy finish, then I'll be making 3 more hole into the actual hood to try and displace some of the heats from the lights (without causing anymore evaporation).

If you don't mind topping up daily (or if you have an ATO which I think I'll be investing in) you can't go past evaporative cooling with a PC fan :)

Yep, I'll think I'll have to do something similar - the factory 'cooling' fan is useless because not enough air can escape unless you leave the hood up, and there is stuff all venting for the lights / ballast etc - Looks as if most of the corals are OK apart from one patch on a sun coral and one bubble looking a bit sad. :cry:

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