HummingBird

It really doesn't matter how long you leave the tank for, it's when it starts to have fish in it that matters. If you add bacterial supplements(cycle, stress zyme, TLC, etc) you should be able to keep your ammonia and nitrites at zero from the get go (I've done this myself).

You can be both simultaneously, you know. A joke about expressing yourself monosyllabically? Gosh, how original. So how quickly will chloramines dissipate with aeration? (which is what I was asking before) My point was that regardless of how much chloramine creates itself in the water supply, it obviously (and I say obviously because everyone I know who uses tapwater doesn't have dead fish) does so quickly enough to be harmless.

Everything you've said is very cerebral alanmin, but you failed to mention how quickly chlorine "disapates", which is what this was about anyways. All I know is that I do my water changes straight from the hose and my fish, plants and aquarium in general are thriving, so I guess chlorine dissipates fast enough.

I do the same as Caryl, just rinse it off and get any guck off it. Haven't had any problems yet!

I use water straight from the hose to do my water changes. Chlorine evaporates really, really quickly. It's not really an issue at all - only chloramine is, which we don't get here anyways.

I kept one a few years ago, it was kind of boring. At work people are always telling me there's a dead fish in one of our tanks and I'm like "No, that's just the butterfly fish."

Awesome to hear Andrew. Hope the Clowns enjoy many years in your tank.

I fixed my cloudy water problem on wednesday - I moved the bacterial part of my filter (the eheim substrat-like stuff) to the middle of my filter where there's more flow (it was at the bottom, I use an AquaClear 300 aka. 50). I figured that the cloudyness might have been bacteria growing in the water column because there wasn't any room in the filter, and it looks like I was right. Within 6 hours after cleaning out my filter and rearranging the media order it became crystal clear - I don't use carbon either.

I do the same, just spray water in from my hose. Chlorine evaporates really, really quickly with aeration -and spraying from the hose counts as aeration. When I first got my Oscar he was afraid of the gravel siphon, now he just ignores it and begs for food.

Ignoring the fact that they don't work, they're not under 640 x 480 pixels so why are you trying to post them anyways?

I was basing my recommendation on my personal experience and this page: http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php as you'll probably note the 8 tablespoons is on the lower end of the dosage spectrum they mention there.

My paradise fish jump out of the tank to get food from my hand and sometimes they miss and jump onto the floor, they don't seem any worse for it though.

How big are the storage containers? If they're big enough they'd be perfect.

I managed to get my two 250W's for a total of $50 including postage, heh. Originally I ordered an aqua one 300W stainless heater for that price, but they didn't have any so they gave me a 250W Newatt instead. I called them up and mentioned the 50W difference so they sent me out another for free, just like that. I was happy

I'd dispute that - I've got a couple of Newatt heaters and they're totally awesome. They're touted as "indestructible" - they're aluminum with a plastic coating, and what's more they're black so they're almost invisible against the black background of my oscar tank.

It isn't asian but petite anubias is small and has very low requirements.

Yes indeedy.

For that size of tank you'd want to use 8 tablespoons of salt - dissolve it into a small bit of water before you put it in the tank too. It really doesn't matter what salt you use. Table salt will work, even if it is iodized. The iodine concentrations in table salt will not be harmful to your fish over the short term. Whatever salt you use be sure to be diligent with your water changes when the treatment is over, so your salt levels get back to normal & all traces of medication are removed (putting carbon in your filter will remove the medication too). And no, I wouldn't say doing a complete water change is necessary, in fact it'd probably do more harm than good. Two 75% water changes on consecutive days would be much better. Also, only stop treatment three days after the white spots on your fish go away to make sure all traces of the disease are gone.

I would advise turning your heater up to 29, this speeds up the parasite's life cycle like Caryl said so it'll be in the water column more (which is where it is susceptible to the medication.) Also try dosing with salt, ich doesn't like this either.

yeah the 4x4's are probably overkill, but I figured I might as well because then I could do the bits where the horizontal 2x4's go on the notches on the tops of the 4x4's, which are cool. As has been mentioned there's no danger of wood itself breaking under a fish tank - it's tensile strength is something like 720 pounds per square inch, so what's actually important is the way the stand is put together, so it won't collapse (diagonal beams help here.) What's also really important is making sure the weight is distributed under the tank so the glass isn't stressed at all, basically you just need a slab of wood (or mdf) like what's pictured in ianab's photos there.

I'm going for a). I have a similar problem in a planted tank that has those JBL ball things in it - I still haven't fully sorted it out and have been considering just removing them altogether (although I suppose that isn't much of an option for you). I've tried starving the tank of light, huge water changes, not changing any water for two weeks, nothing seems to really get it. Nutrafin's B-Clear worked well for three or four days but after it wore off the cloudyness returned. Like you I normally add flourish excel and pmdd but stopped it when this started.

Hard to say what might be paid for them, it varies. They're often hard to sell when they get to this size. Good luck saving them though! Oscars are awesome fish.

You can use lead weights to weigh them down, but like snookie says they'll just get eaten by the Dollars anyways.

I know for a fact that at least one Miter 10 in auckland has three foot tubes.

My friends Jager did it this year and mine did it three years ago, so who knows. Everyone always says how great they are though so maybe it was just random chance that I've had bad experiences.