petplanet

I don't think you need moonlight. I have a blue light that comes on 1/2 an hour before the main lights and turns off 1/2 an hour after. Makes a more gentle transition from light to dark for the fish and gives a different view of your tank.

Definately supermarket. Same stuff you make susi from. Pet shop stuff is the same in a flash pack and three times the price for 1/2 the amount.

STEP ONE - test your water. Your pH may be out of whack that would be my guess but test pH, ammonia, nitrite to start with. Low pH causes fish to produce more body slime to protect themselves.

great excuss/reason for getting a bigger tank!

Repeats Saturday morning as well.

My tank is in Mangere Bridge. Hopefully I will have a marine display tank in the shop before xmas and sale tanks in the new year.

bristle worms eat corals, clams, anemones and snails. Especially the big worms. I never chance it and get rid of any I find. My wrasse loves eating them.

My tank must be crap to. No cyno for three years or more. Great water circulation and plenty of grazing fish take care of it. Didn't even have any when my phosphate level was 10+ppm. That worm must die!!! A wrasse will help take care of them. Read up on them in that book I lent you.

Stop the madness!!!!

My guys would eat a sheet a day if I let them! Start out with a 1/4 sheet. I use a Lee's suction cup clip to hold it. Not an Aqua One tank. Just a plain glass tank with cannister filters, Eden powerheads, protien skimmer and T5's.

Yep, one big happy sea anemone. I moved it to a new spot but it didn't like my aquascaping idea and moved there.

Could be a Heteractis malu or Heterctis crispa. Both like bright light and sand/gravel bottom. I would move the anemone to the bottom near rocks in the light and let it sort itself out.

The yellow tang and Scorpus Tang fort for a few days. Mostly the yellow as it was already in the tank. After a couple of days the other one stood its ground and now they are fine. Food is the best distraction when you add new guys. I fed a lot of nori and that keeps them busy for a long time. There are nine fish in the tank so they are always having fights. The large green wrasse is the main offender.

You need (or we need) to know what type of anemone is is as they have different preferences for light, current, oxygen levels, rock or sand. Can you give a discription? Base colour, base markings, tentile colour, shape etc. I have a good book that has discriptions for all of them.

My tank. 140 x 48 x 48cm 320litres. Had a move around to give the pearl bubble more room.

Looks good. I always think the tanks look nicer when its not a wall of rock. What light have you got on it now?

And there is a whole new range of fake corals coming out soon. Silicone tenticles for realistic movement. Perfect for fresh and saltwater. Your clownfish won't know the difference! (I am not joking, check the shops out in the next few months). What is with putting fake corals in freshwater tanks?

What makes you think bacteria is any tougher than your fish? The idea is to clean out maximum dirt and minimum bacteria so it makes sense not to shock them to much.

Regular small water changes are very important as they provide a stable enviroment for the fish. This might be every week, two weeks or once a month. Smaller or heavily stocked tanks would be done often as their conditions change more rapidly. Make sure you wash filter parts out in water from the tank and not under the tap.

I have tried Melafix many times and think it is crap. Makes the tank smell nice. I go for Furan. Much stronger.

Yeah, it was great, just to large in my opinion. I had no way of anchoring it with out flesh touching other rocks and I moved house to many times so it took a beating, but hey, it has a great base now. I looked in one of my books (The Reef Aquarium Vol.1 - great book) and they rate elegance corals as a great coral for beginners and easy to keep.

I always favour leaving them in till ALL life is gone. You never know what you will get. If I had thrown my Pearl Bubble out when I thought it was dead I wouldn't have ten of them now. Same with a large hammer coral, started dying straight away. Flesh remnants on the sides have grown into about six very small hammer corals. Plate coral died of to one lone polyp. Three years later thirty plus polyps. As for the copperbanded, grow the food they eat. If they eat aptasia sweet. What could be easier to grow. Don't even need a light 9but it helps). Small tank, rocks, food and a mushed up aptasia.

I had one eat a shrimp once. $50 well spent.

Even though my T5 only works on two out of its four fittings, my corals are much healthier. I changed from power glos and marine glos, 4x4ft and 1x2ft to the Arcadia quad T5. I like the fact that I can have lids on and they don't produce to much heat compared to a MH. They claim the tubes have four times the light output of a standard fluro (T8). You can buy cheap T5 tubes but these only put out a lower amount of light. Tube are meant to last X amount of hours, say 8000. That would be 12 hours a day for almost two years. Get your LFS to date the tubes with a vivid when you buy them. If they blow after 6-9 months of normal use then there is either a tube fault or a light fault. You can then take it back to the shop with proof of how old it is (who keeps reciepts). Arcadia did have a tube fault. I had six tubes go in 9 months. My light also has a ballast fault.

Is that a night shot? Looks like it is putting its tenticles out to feed. If it is then drop some food into the tenticles. My pearl bubbles go like that every night. If it is dying and starts rotting then I would just sypon off the rotten bits regularly that way you can save the actual rock. Moving a rotter can be worse. It could fall to bits and land on other corals.