TM

have you seen the state of our beach down here. the sh*t ponds flow right out past sumner.

yes trigger tang and rabbit shit heaps and they eat a lot to, funny that. Quality skimmer, i do nutrient build up, yeah, maybe the probio is not working

so what would the key things be if you wanted to get rid of cynao. Reduce po4 make sure bulbs are not to old water flow anything else??? do you have a link to the Redfield ratio stuff you say you don't have any control over nitrogen availibilty but then is nitrate not being changed to nitroge on a daily basis, meaning another solution could be to reduce this eg reduce your fish load???

Just wanted to clear a couple of things up. I have a slight problem with cynao and have for some time. there is a couple of places in the tank that have ares of cynao, and from the sounds of other peoples posts they have to. assuming no3 and po4 are fine. So the main food source for cynao is not PO4 but nitrogen, which they uptake directly from the water. bulbs may be old and need to be changed to eliminate the spectra that are undesirable in terms of their effect on Cyanobacterial growth in general. (just changed bulbs) carbon dioxide is required, and it can come from two sources decay of organic material (nitrate - nitrogen?) bicarbonates in the water The later is interesting, can anyone go into more detail why this is a problem? Not really any specific questions just wanting to get other peoples views, and yes i have read the links in the sticky above, very usefull. Don't want to hijack puttputts thread

just put a uv in.

i would agree with layton. i had that same sort of stuff. mainly down in gaps between rocks and places with little flow. how old are the rocks? added a couple of streams and that helped heaps. still have the odd patch though.

yip, i found and are still finding that the hard one. Maybe just let things be. Maybe you just stuffed up one day when doing a water change or adding something or playing with the reactor. are all the corals and fish happy, if yes then just leave it. thats what im doing

i would be a bit concerned at using vodka as a quick fix. i used it to get nitrates down, worjed sweet, but when i stopped cynao etc came back strong. try to work out what the cause could be.

throw a couple of ping pong balls in, some oscars like playing with them, he may just be board

$20 says if you cooked your rock you would get crap still coming out. And no you don't have to re-cycle your rock as it stays in salt water

Thats funny how can rock get to old... Its like people that say there gravel is to old and needs to be changed. After the rock has been in for a while you could cook it, cheaper than getting new stuff that could still have a heap of rubbish in.

I wouldn't cut back the feeding to much, this won't solve the problem long term. I would start just doing water changes, 30 - 40% weekly. Also just give it time, sounds like its a pretty new tank, just give things a chance to settle in. Have you tested nh3 and no2??

nice photos, what depth were those eels at?

crap car but one of the nicest corals at the end, id please http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y44/ba ... EEAUTO.flv

and the rest who helped them

And importers..... the marine list shows how much work was put in. the marine list is now heaps bigger than before. The freshwater is well, not flash. As warren said don't complain we all had our chance last year, you will just have to hope the submissions from importers and fnzas are taken on, unlike the other submissions last year.

all of them. most common ar lo vulpinis (sp)

knock knock doc at your door

I agree alan But we did have a chance (and still do) to add fish to this list. Take a look at the marine list, thanks to a lot of hard work but SOME importers there are now new species on there. FNZAS asked people to supply photos of the species that were not on the list, however alot of people did nothing. There are people that are working on this list to get more species on there, this may/will be our last chance ever to do this.

you will find the reason they have been taken of is that there is no evidence of them being imported in the past, that is importers not having a invoice with that species on. There are a lot more like this. Remember this is a First Draft, still time for the importers to make a submission.

or you could just cut the end off

no not in NZ.

but i would have thought corals from different areas prefer diff temps.

Calcification and respiration showed an optimum rate in a temperature range of 22-26° C. Photosynthesis in A. eurystoma showed the same optimum as calcification and respiration, while in S. pistillata there were similar rates in the temperature range of 18-26° C and a decrease in 30° C.