chimera

at 1.5m head height an eheim 1060 (or better) is perfect (in fact, thats exactly what i ran on my 4 footer at same head height) this will also provide good rate of flow (around 2,000lph or in other words turning over 10 times your display volume per hour) any additional flow in the display can be done using powerheads like seio's or streams. if you get a sea swirl, 1/2" is fine (or 3/4" incase you upgrade later) 1" is overkill unless you think you'll catch the bug bad and want to upgrade within another 6 months!!! an overflow hole at 25mm is perfect.

keep it simple. a single eheim 1060 would provide sufficient medium flow in a closed loop system for a 4 foot tank. how you plumb it is up to you, but bear in mind the biggest benefit on a system like this is to have water movement UNDER the rock structure (as its easy to create water movement up top). setup a reef rack with some form of spray bar under it. i would highly recommend you do a closed loop like pies has done. check his thread for information on this. for a 4 foot tank this would be perfect. two (or three) holes evenly spread in the bottom, water goes out one, into the pump then back up into a spray bar (or 'Y'd into two)

an oscillating fan would leak ira's sarcasm is truely warped! 1. approx what (in metres is fine) is the height of the return? (from the sump to the main tank) measure from the water level in the sump to the water level in the main tank - just roughly will do 2. what size display tank and what size sump (in litres) are you having? 3. what size hole do you have from the overflow in the display to the sump? (if you havent worked out this yet, we'll tell you an approx to go for given the answer to #2)

looking good! keep up the maintenance - always harder to recover from algae ridden rocks. got a full tank shot?

got your image tags around the wrong way here i've fixed it for ya

cool. real lucky you dont watch much tv coz the tank would take your eyes off it! just wait til your halides are on!

both water movement and a way to plumb your return. go to... http://www.sea-swirl.com/ ...for pricing. 3/4" is probably most common. get the size matched to your return pump, or larger.

so many options up and over is easiest (and the only way you can go if you choose a sea swirl) a sea swirls nozzle oscillates 90 degrees left/right which means "filtered water" from the sump is provided back to most areas of the tank rather than just dumped in via a static return. a sea swirl also provides "random" water movement for your corals. drilling is an option but when you drill, you're stuck with that location (unless of course you plug it up and dont use it). up and over plumbing can be moved easier. you need to consider reverse syphoning if you drill, ie: if power goes off level of water will flow back to the sump down to the bottom of the hole you drill. my personal preference is only to drill for closed loops. who knows, you might increase the flow from your return and hook up two sea swirls later sea swirls rock.

I hate debates on BB vs DSB

sure its not the railway sleeper in your sump leaching iron thats doing it? nice work warick, looking good.

oh, and steve - dont say I told ya so, I just havent had time to do it since last time! a waste of good ro/di water thats for sure :-?

I did a 200 litre water change last night. This was by far the quickest water change I've ever done, took about 10 minutes. I had a 200 litre drum full of ASW with an Eheim 1060 pumping water out and straight into the sump. Then I simply turned the tap on the 3 way ball valve and emptied existing water in two alternating 20 litre buckets (emptying contents out on the driveway and watched it trickling to the neighbours drain ) Im buying yet MORE plumbing this afternoon as I worked out the 3 way ball valve is in just a high enough position that I can run a pipe back under the refugium, and gravity fed back to a storm water drain at the top end of the house. There is only about 1/2 a metre in it but this is enough and will make life unbelievably easier. To do a water change will be as simple as turning a ball valve tap (water out) and flicking on a power switch for the pump (water in). Im going to make it even easier than this soon too, having another 200 litre drum (already bought) on its side with a ball valve so its essentially going to be as easy as opening two ball valve taps, water goes in, water goes out. I love plumbing, the amount of time you can save because of it is invaluable! Heres a pic I made ages ago of what it'll look like, the only difference is the sink wont exist and the water exiting will head to the bottom right corner of the diagram (as thats where the storm water drain is) For the second time I left the garden tap (goes to RO/DI) on last night, half the sump room floor was flooded as the 220 litre top up drum overflowed Time to add an overflow to the topup tank and have it empty into yet another drum! Easier still, anyone got a cheap ball valve and solenoid for sale???!!!

oh

except that its more readily absorbed by other things (such as power) being equal will try it tonight, ta.

true that, my bad. was only thinking in terms of speed. both b and g use 2.4Ghz frequency huh? a is 5ghz? problem with a is it needs more line of sight than b or g, plus it cant penetrate as well.

sweet, i'll take a hit in performance and revert back to a or b then. only use notebook for Internet anyways so bottleneck will be DSL cher

bollocks, i just read this: I just bought a new uniden WDECT 2.4Ghz cordless phone for home yesterday :lol: I could hear interference on the phone and spent ages trying to work out where it was coming from... I forgot about my WLAN Must test this tonight I was about to install the mother of all house alarms shortly too, comes with wireless smoke detectors - go figure! :evil: did I say I liked wireless?

there are so many factors involved there is no set way to know which dsl and internet provider is the better. performance can be effected by the bandwidth of the remote site you are accessing (and again, where its located - national or internationally) it is most definately effected by the distance you are to the local phone exchange (the further away the slower the connection). it can even be effected by the type of dsl router/modem you buy (poorly written firmware on the router for example) in general you need to take into account all these factors to work out a true performance speed and hence why i dislike wireless for Internet - there are just too many more factors that effect performance. Wireless for around the house though, now thats a different kettle of fish (I just had to say fish)

thats a big call not sure if i agree. REF: http://www.coris.noaa.gov/about/what_are/what_are.html

:lol: and you dont think this happens on Telecom's network? Every new customer Telecom adds to the exchange in your area is another virtual circuit on the DSLAM (digital subscriber line access multiplexer) The more clients they have (in your area) the more bandwidth YOU are sharing with others (regardless of the bandwidth they sell you) To support more customers, they have to add more DSLAMs. Other DSL providers rent a portion of this line space off Telecom. In terms of speed, you can only multiplex data traffic as quick as the hardware Telecom provides - this is generally fast no matter whose providing the service. The true bottleneck for latency is generally the size of the circuit that the ISP has with the rest of the world (therefore who THEY rent bandwidth from nationally and/or internationally) - not the DSL provider. So to compare apples with apples, you'd compare say Xtra with IHUG. I find very little (visible) performance difference in the two - except I save a few more bucks with IHUG :lol: Brian Im sure you can elaborate here, even though you work for the thieving b@#$!@#s :lol:

yes, i mentioned this one a little while back in another zeovit thread mine is definately growing, i wouldnt say fast, perhaps at the same rate as my milli frag and certainly slower than my monti cap (although thats not hard!) I dont have any tips disintegrating though? perhaps this coral is going to be added to the zeovit guide shortly :lol:

nice avatar looks just like you :lol:

interesting... http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/jan2004/media.htm

i'd kick helens butt lets re-phrase this one then... yes, polyp extension could be a good or bad thing. eg: if there were sudden changes in tank parameters, could lead to 'supercharged' zooxanthellae resulting in explusion/bleaching. Im guessing if your tank temperature was high too high this could lead to constant respiration? If you dont have enough spacing between corals it may lead to predation. If your corals are horny well you can work out the rest. they all cause polyp extension. Other than the above, they might just be having a feed. generalising again, feeding = growth, growth = happy corals (but then too fast coral growth could be a bad thing!)

i have little doubt that there is some form of iron supplement in zeovit (in fact, dont zeovit also offer an iron supplement as a separate product?) to what level its dosed though is the question. im sure we've all learnt by now iron does increase algae growth, but it also effects the green colour formation of corals. however overdosing on iron leads to darkening of tissue - after running zeovit, i've only noticed lighter more colourful tissue? so does zeovit add massive portions of iron to the detriment of a tank or smaller portions to aid in the colouration of sps corals? btw, iron occurs naturally in seawater at 0.0034ppm.