chimera

there is going to be one hell of alot of plumbing anyway so a few more bits and pieces here and there aint gonna make much difference

wow, what a heap of information! great read learning first hand about this guys personal experiences in reefkeeping... http://www.globaldialog.com/~jrice/reef.html ...and a really small (size of a 10 litre bucket) reef tank: http://www.globaldialog.com/~jrice/other_page/picoreef.htm

i gt 1 but he aint for sale! once u get 1, u wont let him go they are cool fish.

Steve is close on what i want to achieve - similar to the tank he setup in Takapuna. There will be a large rock face up on the left (say about 400mm), almost to the bottom of the overflow. then looking right, there will be a small (say 50cm gap) with no (or minimum) rocks at all. then, the rest of the tank (to the right) will be a reef of low/mid/high-height rocks. the right side will sit on a reef rack with closed loops underneath. each closed loop (want 3 for a 5 foot tank) will have water flow similar to what SCWD's achieve - ie: out one side for 20 seconds then out the other side. however, one side will flow the bottom of the tank then the other side will flow the top of the tank. that way current alternates high and low randomly between all 3 closed loops. i will be allowing (not sure how?) for streams in the future (will allow for at least 2) any comments welcome, thanks.

Hi, Im just trying to design a closed loop for my tank. using Pies idea of actually "drilling" and plumbing up holes in the tank at the back/bottom or underneath, my concern if a pipe accidentally popped off the loop somewhere, it would drain the entire tank. So, thinking of how typical sink pipes work, i thought about designing the loop as follows (specifically the yellow pipe design) Side on shot of the tank: The worst that could happen here if a pipe popped off the pump (or anywhere except the connection attached to the tank itself) the tank could only drain down to the water line shown by the red line above. This design could work with those without "in-wall" tanks, as long as you had a hood you would see the pipe sticking above the water level. Can anyone see any issues with this design or offer any advice? Cheers.

yeah thanks alois, but ive decided to upgrade my tank to something LARGER! my 50,000 litre swimming pool... not. no but seriously, am getting a bigger tank otherwise i would.

nicely priced too - especially considering it includes the bottles! Tried advertising on TradeMe yet? Bigger market

I got myself an Aquamedic Nitratereductor 400 recently because of (not overly high) but consistent nitrate levels in my tank (as I sort of expected as I have highish stocking levels in a smallish tank). Anyone had experience with one of these? Any comments on how effective they are? Anything to watch for?

cool dude. how are you going to test your prototype? not on your main tank i hope! are you setting up a test tank to try it out?

"A true fungus has a cotton like appearance similar to a mold you might find on fruit, bread or cheese except that on fish fungus is always white. They are very difficult to treat once established on the fish. Fungus usually are a secondary invader and result from an injury to the fish or overdosing a tank with antibiotics. Isolate fish with fungus infections in a hospital tank and treat immediately. The best method to control fungus is to avoid fungus producing environments" Regarding salt, what type and how much, read here for a basic idea: http://www.bestfish.com/fwsalt.html Good luck!

ha haaa! sarcasm at it's best

when I say millionaire - i was also referring to his bar and probably the whole house...! wouldn't mind owning kelly tarlton's, i'd close it down and turn it into my house

words cant really describe how cool that is. it is ridiculously wicked! helps if you're a millionaire...

hold off on at least one incase these things are the shiznit

definately let us know,... but for the average (non-insurance-claimed) pocket the above article shows how activated carbon is da bomb

i figure i'll keep adding to this list as i find new stuff... denitrator http://www.bryant81.freeserve.co.uk/page6.html surge device http://www.breeders-registry.gen.ca.us/Reprints/SeaScope/v13_sumr/surge.htm wavemaker http://www.globaldialog.com/~jrice/diy/wavemaker.htm

will see if i can get extra's, if i can, i'll sell you one at whatever i pay for it (10 UK pounds so probably around $30 ea) pretty cheap alternative if it works!

??? standard 1/4" or 1/2" i guess. couldn't tell from the web site. am possibly getting some sent to me to try out in a month or so.

just thought i'd share... http://www.hallman.org/filter/gac.html

ha ha haaa!!! now thats some funny sh!t!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: the rotating flow nozzles arent if you already have power-ugly-heads!

yeah i saw those one's on reefonline. still pricey ($500+) http://www.reefonline.com.au/shop/default.php

has anyone used these as a cheap workaround for better water flow? attaches to your powerhead. Reference: http://www.stm-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Whats_New.html only reason i ask is most water moving device in your tank is HELL expensive (eg: tunze). would appreciate replies from those that have used them first hand, not just "oh, they are crap" because you heard it from a mates mate.

Nice clarity, how long did it take you to polish the glass Layton?!!!

given up on survivor all-stars steve?! ha ha haaa! what a bunch of up-tight grumpy americans...!

pies likes it windy