chimera

nitratereductor is just a little puppy though, i think my blue tang weighs more

friction is the word he used but yeah, he meant bends and elbows etc i still think an ocean runner is a good high-throughput pump (from what i've read) perhaps the ocean runner "love daddy" 6500 (1,400gallons/hr or 6,500 litres per hour) would be the go. the only reason i want it submersible is so i dont have to add a hole to the bottom of the 3 foot sump for an Iwaki to plumb up too. If it comes to it, its not a major though... Does anyone have any links to sites where it actually states how much heat dissipation a typical pump like this produces or information on effects of water temperature from high output, submersible pumps?

I just rang nick to find out. He said he bought a 3/4" sea swirl about 5 months ago and hooked up to an Iwaki return pump. He bought it in the USA for US$200 or around NZ$285 at the time. He said the guys there recommended he get a 3/4" as it would perform better than a 1" for his setup. He reckons a 3/4" for mine would be fine also. so, all in all the 3/4" for NZ$310 delivered aint too bad... My return pump needs to be submersible and capable of pumping about 2.5'ish metres straight up. nick reckoned that the head height isnt as crucial as the friction within the pipe (ie: sharp bends etc) anyways I was considering the ocean runner range. i would guess the 3500 model would be sufficient (3500 l/hr) Thoughts on this?

good thinking batman..., errr.... pieman I'll do one better on ya and install them in a drip tray seated higher than the sump with an overflow going back to the sump! thanks for making me think outside the square!

just put the link in for the 1 inch above (the europe version is US$20 cheaper, the UK is US$10 more)

way ghetto styles!!! it's actually cheaper (by US$10) to buy the NZL one rather than the UK one http://aquariumcurrentsincn.goemerchant7.com/index.cgi?PageToView=catalog&Department=79552&Cartid=86601088992865&Merchant=aquariumcurrentsincn&ExpandedDepts=

cool, they have the NZL/AUS versions for sale online there too (in fact, the site i posted above is the online ordering link direct from the sea swirl site anyways) the 1 inch is US$250 (or about NZ$370) which includes shipping

what, the nitratereductor and calcium reactor bobbing up and down in the sump water?! i mean the actual units, not the plumbing for them (although i need to take into account the plumbing to work out where the best place to physically seat them) Birds eye view of the sump room will be up soon!!!....

i see i can order a sea swirl online from here: http://aquariumcurrentsincn.goemerchant7.com/ for about $310 NZL which includes shipping (for a 3/4 inch sea swirl return device) or would i need a 1" swirl instead? Is that price about right? not too bad really... if i didnt have my car window smashed in yesterday and my wallet (and car speakers) stolen i would buy it online right now... :evil:

cheers guys. pies - plumbing will mostly be hidden behind rockwork (except for the top but those pipes will be black so almost unseen) all holes (including 'G') are 35mm (then i can always squeeze smaller if needed). the 2 x closed loops will be running eheim 1060's, not 1260/1262's so we're talking over 2,000 l/hr each then there's also the sea swirl or streams on top of this (havent decided which yet). i will consider the sea swirl, its just $$$ versus the wife at the moment and the wife is winning

When I said 'streams' - I actually meant closed loops :oops: Hole B is to feed a closed loop for A & E (via a SCWD) Hole C is the return from the sump which is 10mm below the sump so if the pump stopped, it would not drain back (well, only the 10mm above it would) Streams sit over the edge of the tank anyway dont they? How do the streams suck in water, do they work similar like a powerhead? Does this make any difference to the holes now?

I'll rephrase - i still need to find the best place to physically locate this equipment in the sump room

Alan - Ive been told and have read never to underestimate the amount of water flow needed for a reef system. why have at the bottom? thats one of my questions! Layton - my thoughts precisely in regards to plumbing being easier. However, my main concerns with the tank and hence the post are: 1. are the position and number of holes sufficient? 2. are the closed loops/streams sufficient to provide enough water flow? Bear in mind its only a 5 foot/600mm deep tank (or 540 litre main tank + 460 litre sump and refugium) The actual size of the holes (35mm) and strength of the tank (tank maker assured there is no problem) is not a concern.

I am getting a new tank made and have asked for the following holes. Holes at the bottom will be 50mm from the bottom of the tank. Holes at top will be 10mm below overflow. This is a birds eye view of the tank standing at the back of it (front of tank is at top, overflow back left) All holes will be 35mm in diameter. I have the following ideas for the plumbing: A, E = Streams C = Return from sump B = Feed for streams D, F = closed loop (F feeds D) G = overflow to sump I had considered holes underneath instead of back/bottom and can change if there would be a reason too. the guy making the tank said there is no concern with strength, glass is 10mm. Thoughts or any better ideas???

gaps left on purpose incase any water leaks it does rot the walls. the last thing that will be done is outside walls to the ground (to stop drafts) and insulation between (got to get the plumbing through there first though!) the return pipe runs up the side of the door (right side of first pic). the second pic showing the spilt over bit of concrete will be covered over by a unit to hold the 4 foot refugium (this stand will be 500mm higher than the 3 foot stand as its all gravity fed) i bought a 2nd hand laundry tub from trademe which will be going in the middle of these two units and be used for water changes/cleaning/emptying skimmer into etc. a 2nd tap will be above the refugium and hooked up to RODI pumping water into a holding tank for top up/kalk. will also be painting polyurathane over all the timber (argh, not keen on doing that) i still need to work out a place to put calcium reactor (plus CO2 etc) and nitratereductor - probably build a smaller bench next to the 3 foot sump.

no, it was love

new additions to the sump room shown above!

oooh, i can feel the love....

oh dear,.... it's still BESIDES THE POINT. old news to who? intermediate/advanced reefers? yeah for sure. its new to beginners like myself though therefore it's a GOOD READ. do you want me to put a vote up first before i post it... or perhaps i should PM you guys before i post ANYTHING on this site....?! I dont care if its old or new news. i would encourage anyone to post any information they find useful whether it's old or not. its not old news to someone who hasn't read it is it? basically common sense - there are beginner reefers here as well as you old timers

Well said Layton, completely agree. Nick - since you're in Aussie, your best bet for good product and very good service is Natalie at Reefonline, http://www.reefonline.com.au/ tank is (generally) considered fully cycled when there are no detectable traces of ammonia and nitrite. test for several days apart as these levels can change. ummm,.... read this: http://www.reefcentral.com/FAQ/general/index.php (better be careful, i might get blamed for posting 'old news')

hmmm, true. dammit this hobby requires a pay rise!!!

perhaps, but the 2nd closed loop will be used as a "stream" until i can afford real ones!!!

personally i'd ditch the water in there and put new RO water in + salt (or NSW) let that cycle for a while. for that size, i reckon budget on around $7K (includes rock and fish) dont forget metal hallides plus some blue actinic's (ask pies, he's just worked out this for his new tank - i would guess 3 x 250W 10k M/H's) heaps of other things for consideration (streams, closed loops, return pump for sump, refractometer, test kits etc etc. all add's up as im finding out!!!)

besides the point. it's a GOOD READ. :roll:

cheers pieman, good plan. closed loops for bottom (water flow across substrate) and streams for the top (corals)