chimera

I have just created an excel spreadsheet that calculates the maximum flow rate based on the height of the tank (less the height of the overflow from the bottom of the tank) and the diameter of the opening from the overflow. Based on a 600mm high tank with a 35mm overflow hole, 50mm up from the bottom of the tank (this accounts for the height above the overflow as well, doesnt take into account loss of flow via the standpipe) equates to a theoretical maximum flow rate of 11,340 litres per hour. Interestingly, I also added an equation that works out how long it takes to drain a tank based on volume, water height and hole size. Assuming the overflow did not exist, it would take 10 minutes 52 seconds to drain my tank with a 25mm hole and 5 minutes 36 seconds to drain my tank with a 35mm hole!!! Just shows how much quicker another 10mm diameter is.

i have to bear in mind i will only have a 5 foot / 540 litre tank with plenty of waterflow ontop so 35m i believe is sufficient for me. speaking of calculators: http://boonedocks.net/fishtank/ftweb.php

well it's over 1,000 gallons per hour for a 35mm hole according to reefcentral calculator. thats like 4,000 litres per hour through the sump alone!

cool, thanks dude. annoying it's imperial. i'll make my own one (but better) and put 'em up on my web site. i'll make them in metric too!!!

and is "hansen" piping (or rather the adaptors on either side of the glass) the best to get? also, is it possible to get a glass hole at 25mm re-drilled larger to 35mm? reason i ask is i will have a 35mm hole in the main tank overflow running to a refugium with a 25mm hole in the overflow, which then runs to a 3 foot tank with return pump. Obviously if the return pump in the 3 foot tank is pumping at the maximum flow rate of the 35mm hole in the main tank, the 25mm in the refugium wont be able to keep up. alternately, does anyone have links to sites that can calculate the maximum flow rate (in litres/hour) of a given a pipes diameter? (and perhaps an equation that takes into consideration the number of elbows in the system too?) if the flow rate of a 25mm hole is quick enough (and the piping between the refugium and sump is basically a 1.5m straight pipe, compared to a couple of bends in the main tank to refugium plumbing) for whatever the return pump is rated at, im sweet!

where ever the best water flow is!

cool, ta. just wont be going to mico in whangaparoa their service is A1 sh1t.

just as easy to drill a hole i think!... another question: where's the best place to get the piping (hansen?) that goes either side of the newly drilled hole?

if theres a power cut i'll have to prime it so i think drilling is the way to go. have to book some overtime at work now to get more dosh for the pump...

ok, so the underlying question I had before was how much (what distance) can an Iwaki suck?! If I get one, I'll obviously mount it as close to the sump as possible but it still has to suck the height of the tank before it pushes water up about 2 metres or so. Do these pumps have any spec's to indicate an approximate mounting position/how much they suck? (dont take that wording the wrong way )

I have red algae on my rocks :evil: :evil: :evil: that Im not sure if it's a form of deep redish corraline or cyanobacteria. i reduced feeding heaps last time i got an outbreak of the stuff and hardly feed at all (reduced amount and duration by about 1/3) i think it maybe cyano because an area of the substrate (with less water flow than the rest of the tank) looks the same as last time. the only thing different (which i thought should help) was the addition of about 20kg of more live rock. Been researching a bit more about it and found out a couple of interesting facts. Cyanobacteria is the oldest known fossil, over 3.5 billion years old. Also, spirulina (the good old green coloured health drink) is actually a species of cyanobacteria! The rice paddies of Asia, which feed about 75% of the world's human population, could not do so were it not for healthy populations of nitrogen-fixing cyanobacteria in the rice paddy waters (not necessarily the same breed of cyano you get in your tank!) Again, the best philosophy of getting rid of it is physically removing as much as possible from the tank then heaps of partial water changes over a few weeks. Just not 100% sure if it is actually cyano though?!

probably little copepods and amphipods - yummy food for some breeds of fish (like mandarin and gobies) you got some of chris' live rock for your tank didn't you? they've probably come from that. they are all good. see here if you wanna have a read about them: http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/pestscopepods/a/aa061200.htm

is it very windy outside steve?...

the pumbing on the first guys tank is just ridiculous!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: its ugly but clever - subtle bends in the pipe rather than 90 degree elbows. the other ones are nice designs - good to get some idea's from Sorry to all those people who read my mind about what i was going to post in my reply

a tap is hardly complicated. flexibility is my preference, gives me the best of both worlds.

yeah, but as pies says, if I go away it might make life a little easier for whoever i get to look after it. i would put a tap on it and have it off in normal circumstances.

Do yourself a favour and sell the wet/dry filtration and use the money towards a good skimmer. You did say you wanted to do it slowly and properly? I am in a dilema right now with my Deltec 1060 skimmer which is rated to 1,000 litres. I am considering selling it and upgrading to a larger skimmer for my new tank... more $$$...

drip tray because space is available, tidier, easier to access etc that way. yes, is an in-sump skimmer so 2 pumps at bottom of it. I understand that the 3 foot controls water level and figured the amount of water to be changed would not be greater than 140 litres in one go. Baffles an idea, ta. Skimmer positioning, yeah perhaps. I'll re-think this but it's likely I'll have to get a bigger external skimmer later on (current Deltec 1060 is rated to 1,000 litres, which is exactly how much I'll have in the new setup) so it could easily sit prior to entering the refugium. My only query with your observation though is that there is such high water throughput around the system, that the water skimmed from the sump would be pumped a full cycle around the entire system in a short period of time anyway. I understand the theory behind it but I think it will be minimal effect because of fast water cycling. If anyone wants to buy a Deltec skimmer for $800 I'll consider selling it and upgrading! (thats half the price they sell for at Hollywood) Thanks, appreciate the comments.

cool, steve's got my number so get him to gimme a call when you see him!

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

design will ensure pipe wont get blocked. agreed, simple is better but i think the clutter in the diagram makes it appear more complex than it actually is.

Here's a birds-eye view of the sump room. main tank sits 1 storey up roughly over the 3 foot sump and door. Any suggestions for improvement?

that was my only reason for choosing the OR as i didnt think the Iwaki could suck. If it can (only needs to be about 500mm up) then I'll use that instead (reliability and power are my preferences!)

cool, cheers. might add one.

ok this maybe a stupid question but... i've noticed on some skimmer's a small hole drilled in the bottom of the collection cup with a pipe that runs away to a sink. is this by design on some skimmer's or do people add this hole on themselves? question being, could I add a hole and drain this away? reason i ask is when water height in sump is high, i get water in the collection cup rather than the usual foam/crud you get (well, i still get both)