chimera

let me know if this makes sense: According to the marine depot web site, the dolphin ampmaster 3000 (the pump im planning to use for my closed loops) has a maximum flow rate of 3000 GPH (or 11,350 LPH or 190 LPM) The inlet and outlets are 1.5". The web site states that "the pump is able to run through a 1" pipe although flow rate will be decreased by 40%. In other words it has a max flow of 60 GPM (227 LPM) through 1.5" pipe and max flow of 26 GPM (98 LPM) through 1" pipe" (this is where i got confused, it looks like reduced TOO 40% rather than BY 40%). I aim to run through 2 x 0.75" pipes. Here's the technical details: 1.50" = 40mm 1.00" = 25mm 0.75" = 20mm Using pi r ^ 2... 1 x 1.50" = surface area of 1256mm sq. this is what is recommended to provide maximum flow. 1 x 1.00" = surface area of 490mm sq. this is what they state will decrease flow rate by 40% 2 x 0.75" = surface area of 628mm sq. this is what i aim to run. this decreases flow rate by about 30%. So, based on the figures above, flow rate for the closed loop through 2 x 0.75" pipes (Y'd together to a 1.5" pipe) will reduce from 60 GPM (227 LPM) to about 36 GPM (136 LPM) or 8160 LPH. While this figure is not near the maximum, it is still considerable flow. Options are: 1. Continue with the design using the original plan (diagramed a few posts above) and just use a reduced flow rate 2. Sell the Ampmaster for a smaller pump and plumb it up differently. 3. Swap my current return pump (an Iwaki 55RLT) with the Dolphin Ampmaster 3000, buy another sea-swirl (ouch) and plumb the return to 2 x sea-swirls. Use the Iwaki for the closed loops. (preferably not, dont want to spend anymore!!!) 4. Recommendations?!?! oh, and in regards to lighting, i will be getting 2 hew 250W 20K's. My ballasts cant handle 400W but never mind, next years upgrade

suphew - yeah i realised this the other day good old pi r^2 - never even thought about it when i originally designed it... if anyone can think of a better solution from what i have, would be much appreciated! cracker, no problems send me a PM whenever

...fish or friends?

well here's a minor update on the tank progress... nothing rennovations (stage one that is) are almost finished which is cool. walls are painted and things are progressing nicely on that front - but not so much with the tank. did a 300 litre water change tonight which should help things along! here's a shot of the tank in the wall with walls painted. the fridge along with the other crap obviously dont belong there but should give you an idea of how it looks. you can still make out the temporary powerheads and the half finished right-hand side aquascaping!!! the outside edge of the tank still has masking tape around it too which surprisingly makes it appear a bit smaller. not too long to go before closed loop is complete and i can get on with finishing up. oh, and just to show a bit of the rennovations, here's a small collage of before and after shots of our new kitchen (less the island unit, window and flooring) me trying to work out how to disconnect the wiring all photo's taken on slightly different angles but of same back corner...

:lol: im picking it can be unscrewed from the bottom? you'd have to get the dimensions all planned out (ie: it will be a tank inside the monitor, rather than using the monitor as the tank) It could be done quite simply I would think. Problem you have is access to the inners of the tank once it's done. You would need to have the top of the monitor lasercut (north shore laser are good bunch of guys, http://www.northshorelaser.co.nz) and hinged. To get the tank custom made, call Rod (anyday between 9am and 10am) on (09) 232-9781. He's pretty good and will make it for you for (guesstimating here) probably around $200 (?) As a comparison, my 5 foot tank was $320 although alot simpler to make than what you require. I would think it would only hold around 60-ish litres tops? Just spend twice as long designing it as getting it made and it'll work out. Go hard, it will look cool!

:lol:

Of course you can, but it doesnt mean they are 'comfortable'. Also, your nutrients are likely to build up faster because of a higher load which = more frequent water changes and generally less stable water chemistry (meaning things could go bad faster). Stocking also depends on whether its fish only vs keeping corals. A reef tank (specifically SPS) requires extremely 'lower levels' of phosphates and nitrates than a FO tank. Just think of it like putting an average family into an average size house (albeit we can go outside) Now put 3 average size families into the same house... would you live there? No, didnt think so.

no, about right. wouldnt have anymore fish than that though - they need to be comfortable im glad you said eventually

when i remember

:-? bizzare. true, dont think i would get a rabbitfish again - they are cool looking fish, but IMO, just not suitable for a reef tank due to their excessive need for food.

Ok then badly explained, let me put it this way - small bubbles coming out your return into the main tank can be a sign of cavitation around your return pump. Inefficient low-pressure pockets on the impeller form bubbles that collapse against the blades resulting in premature wear. So, if the bubbles are COMING FROM your return, then it MAY mean you are experiencing cavitation from your return pump which is bad. Or for an definition better than I can explain, read here! http://www.mcnallyinstitute.com/01-html/1-3.html

microbubbles are only bad if they are around your return pump (or entering back into the display tank from the return is a bad sign) as it degrades the performance of your pump and cause cavitation thus shortening its lifespan. other than that, just aesthetic reasons in the display tank

yeah well cant believe everything you read

my subtle joke - apparently rabbitfish are on the list of disallowed imports, so MAF get you in the end, whether it's direct or indirect!!!

rabbitfish is dead. got home tonight to find him lying on the bottom. water chemistry is sweet, only thing I can attribute death to is lack of feeding or possibly got overstressed when he got stuck to the powerhead a couple of days ago. he was completely fine after that though and looked sweet this morning. he was eating and swimming around normally. bugger (see, MAF always get you in the end)

i need more nori

your point calvin? (Im asking as you quoted me then didnt make any relevant point regarding my statement) im not talking about frozen vs non-frozen food, talking about feeding in general. my point was that 1. a well established tank will have a larger "live food" population for the fish to live on and that 2. some fish need to graze all day. all my fish get fed very infrequently (once every 2-3 days) and my rabbitfish is very skinny (too much so). im having to increase feeding rates slowly to fatten him up!

to be fair Pies you have a rather large copepod population! for less established tanks you have no choice but to feed more often. also depends on fish kept - some need to "graze" all day. water turnover is irrelevant to feeding, its stocking levels, size of entire system, amount of LR, efficiency of skimmer etc that will help with removing nutrients (that can come from overfeeding)

my post he means. i dont see why someone would waste their time making up a story like that, especially when they refer to contacts at most likely reputable lighting stores.

whoa, matching your bulbs and ballasts can be really important! poor dude... http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=20165 probably a long shot of this happening but a chance still the same.

nice http://ghchhilojack.homestead.com/Acropora.html

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- DISCUSSION ON RESULTS HERE: http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?p=85187 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ******************** FEBRUARY'S RESULTS ************************* It's been a while since I've done some tests (perhaps a little reminder to everyone else? ), did them tonight heres what i got: pH = 8.2 PO4 = 0ppm NO3 = 0ppm kH = 7.0 Ca = 380 Mg = 1100 Salinity = 1.025 @ 25 degrees (although peaks to 27.5) Low alkalinity and Mg levels attributed to the fact I havent done a water change for about 6 weeks (Xmas and all, my bad) Also when dosing kalk at nights to help maintain levels, the pump that stirs it prior to dosing is dead, all kalk on bottom of drum. Been failed for sometime, my bad again. Replaced the small dead pump with 802 powerhead tonight (thanks Steve - will get it back to ya soon )

must be a christchurch thing

value for money? :lol: value (as in excellent quality) yes. money (as in the paper stuff that gets sucked from your wallet) no. there are cheaper kits but then you get a cheaper quality product. i think what reef is implying is you pay for what you get. spend a bit more and get salifert, easy to use and (general concensus is) highly accurate.