breakaway

So I obtain pure potassium and dose it? Where would I get it from?

Will using phospate removing media help?

Is there a fix that doesn't involve adding other fish? I've got 4 x Carinotetradon Travancoricus (Dwarf Puffers) in there and they're pretty aggressive.

Have you?

Hi, I'm having some annoying issues with hair algae. It's growing in my 200L tank with 78W of lighting, plenty of plants and no fertilizer. My previous solution was to turn off the light for 2 days, then turn it back on for for 2hrs a day, and then put it back to my normal 11½ hour cycle. This works well, but there's surely gotta be a better way of getting rid of the algae than doing this? Because the hair algae has returned after about a 2 weeks. Any help appreciated!

Wouldn't it diffuse better if you put the CO2 carrying airline into the intake of your filter?

http://www.lampsx.co.nz/Lamps-Ex-Company-Profile.htm Got them for about $12-14 each.

I used DIY CO2, but it always seems to fizzle out after about a week, tried many different combinations of yeast / sugar / water. I diffused it using my power head. Also, the thing I noticed when using DIY CO2 is the ambulia grows all retarded, like between the 'tiers' of leaves, there's like 3-4cm of gaps. Without CO2 ambulia grows a lot slower but a lot more 'bushier'. After experiencing this problem I decided to stop the CO2. The plants are several months old, But I've moved them around (Uprooted) them a fair amount today due to the re-scape. So I guess this means they have to re-establish themselves?

Hello, I've just dismantled my smaller tank and put everything into my 200L tank (1020L x 374W x 540H mm). The tank has a Glo T5HO unit on it, with 2 x Daylight tubes (39W each). The substrate is about an inch thick in places, probably a bit more. It's "charcoal grit" from Hollywood Fish Farm. I have a Fluval 203 and a Blue Planet 24w UV Sterilizer for filtration. Plants include: - Dwarf Sag - Twisted Val - Ambulia - Cabomba - Rotala Rotundifolia - Rotala Macranda - Hair Grass And some others I can't identify / forgotten what they are Here's a photo to give an idea of how many plants there are: My questions are: - Should I be dosing fertilizer? I have some Flourish Comprehensive but I haven't used it as I'm afraid I'll cause an algal bloom (Already having some issues with hair algae) - Is the lighting adequate? There's 78W of T5HO. Currently thinking about buying another just like the one I got - would this be worth it or unnecessary? - Should I invest in a CO2 system? Like, without CO2 will my plants still grow but just more slowly? Or will some of them melt away etc? - What do I need to do to keep algae away, and plants looking great?

Barrie, thanks for all the info This seems like a smart idea. Don't know about bothering with getting the existing rim off it etc! I think I'm going to just stick with trying to overflow. Alternatively, I could block up the trickle filter on the tank so it overflows back in (Hard to explain if you don't know the setup, I'm sure Brennos wil know what I'm talking about) and using that to house a sandbed / grow some caulerpa. I just really wanted a sump so I could remove the heater, and easily add a skimmer later on if I so decided. Other than siphons and drilling, is there any other sort of way to reliably get water to the sump and back?

Cheers Zev. How quiet are these siphon setups? Has anyone here ever built one?

Thanks Barrie. I was just curious as to the reason. So there's no chance of having a glass specialist attempt it either? If so then I suppose I can go back to looking at PVC siphon overflows or similar.

So can anyone explain why this tank would have a high chance of shattering while drilling it high up for an overflow?

I had a problem with cyanobacteria in my 200L tank (Lit with 2 x 39W T5HO). I fixed the problem by turning off the light for 3 days, then reducing lighting hours to 6 for a further 4 days, and then returning to normal 12 hour cycle after. Cyano just died off.

How big is your adult puffer Gatito?

But the back of it isn't 'moulded glass'? If I understand the term correctly, moulded glass means forming the aquarium from one continuous piece of glass right? With the AR380 just the front, left and right are 'moulded glass'. The back and bottom are siliconed on just like any other tank.

Is this a general rule for all already built aquariums? That there's a 80% chance of breaking it I mean? Or just readymade ones like Aqua One / Juwels etc? Remember if I drill the Aqua one I'll be drilling the back part, which is just a piece of glass. It's not ALL moulded in one piece or anything - just the front, left and right sides are moulded in one piece.

Why is it more likely to break than a standard 2ft aquarium?

How about getting some of that fake grass stuff and gluing it onto the plastic fish bin?

Hi, I'd like to drill a couple of holes in my my Aqua One AR380 for a sump, and install an overflow box. Now I'm not very confident working with glass - is there anyone in the auckland area that will do this for me? I've already asked at Hollywood Fish Farm and they've said the guy that does their tanks doesn't deal with readymade tanks. Cheers.

How come your tank is up for sale now?

You already managed to breed them? How did you do that?

RO/DI water is only good for marine aquariums I think. This is because the chemistry of natural tap water changes periodically, and this change can 'shock' sensitive reef animals such as anemones, corals, clams, etc. Remember RO/DI water has none of the minerals etc that comes with non RO/DI water. There is a big debate on wether or not it is healthy for humans to drink RO/DI water due to lack of any minerals.

Mt Roskill is where I got mine from

Look at T5HO units. Like the hagen one linked earlier.