Pegasus

The black pipe is called Alkathene This was my Cascade project before my son took over the bach where my fishroom was. http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/grumpy ... 0Tanks.htm Nice setup BTW Bill.

Caryl is correct Shae. Over the past few years I have "completely" re-wired two removal homes we bought. one a three bed.. the other a five bed.. The Sparky wanted an unbelievable figure, plus he said there would be a long waiting list. I said I would do the job, as the guy knew me, and also knew I was conversant enough to do the job.. so I did both houses.. and on completion he came and checked it all over.. then gave me the piece of paper that said the wiring was up to certified standard. As Caryl points out... without this your insurance could be void. Wouldn't shut your fishroom down.. but for peace of mind it would be worth having it certified by your sparky as soon as you can.. Bill.

Although I disagree with many things you have said above mrshanepaul, I will not persue the obvious, and am overjoyed that Shae has decided to do the right thing.. Shae said: Good one Shae. Bill.

There's only one FW type as far as I know.. the Ichthyophthirius Multifiliis... but I "do" know for certain that even those that have not added anything to their tank for months or longer, can still get it. Stress and change of conditions seems to be the main culprit, and some of the experts in fish diseases claim that it is present in all FW tanks, but will only attack if the resistance of the fish is lowered to some degree. You say: Have you "actual" proof of this..? Bill.

Ha Ha... Thought you "didn't" name them.. Recon you would be hard pressed to find someone with an Oscar that is un-named Great stuff Herc.. and as mentioned.. wonderful clear photos. Thanks for sharing.

So is there a difference in the Fresh Water WS and the Marine Version..? If so.. How do they differ..? Is the cycle the same...? One should bear in mind that any parasite of this nature is feeding off the reserves of the fish.. so the quicker it is removed, the better. Bill.

Warren said: Been watching this thread very carefully, and fully agree with the above, but I also feel that information of this nature is something that should "not" be passed on via these forums. What position would we be in if something drastic happened to this member..? Ok... it's only two or three wires.. but in the wrong hands (as pointed out).. they can be instanttly lethal. I myself have posted info here on wiring flouros.. but a full diagram was given with colour coding, and full warnings given. Like this mis-leading info given above... It CERTAINLY DOES matter which way round they go in this situation,.. and fittings are marked for a reason.. which is the safety factor. Even your plug at the wall may be wired the incorrect way, and only a phase test will tell you if this is correct. Take some GOOD advice LB... Get someone that knows what they are doing to check your circuit, as the day may come when you dip your net in the tank and get a result you had not planned for. Bill.

Welcome Doubie.. and to your brother Hope you guys find lots of interest here. Bill.

Hi there Tom.. Nice when the family joins up.. Welcome to you both. Great pics you just posted, and real healthy looking fish. Bill.

Alan said: Of course you are right Alan.. but as mentioned... As mentioned elsewhere... Heat will kill them.. as will the lack of a host for a day or so.. but the time factor between them dropping from the fish and releasing the Tomites (spores).. is dependent on a few factors.. so unless one wants to take the risk of waiting for the right moment, then the generally accepted time is.... ... so what you say is true... It is the Tomites.. (see drawing).. that are vunerable to the meds... and not the cysts.

Real sorry to hear that MCT.. it sounded like it was picking up a bit. I would hold off putting anything in that tank for at least four days. The WS can't live without a host for long. Would do lots of water changes to remove the salt and reset your temp back to normal.

Do you know, that way back when.. there were very few cures for WS, but the main one was Methelene Blue, which meant you could say "night night" to your fish for around ten days or so, as they were impossible to see. The "other" cure that many would use was the "temp control" method, whereby the temp was gradually increased to around 92F and left there for a couple of days. Extra airation was added.. but if care was taken, then most of the fish survived. The temp was then gradually lowered to normal over the next week. WS can't survive over 90degF.. so this was a cheap no cost cure that allowed you to still see your fish Bill.

The pic in your link... http://community.webshots.com/photo/482 ... 0004nwTSnl .. is of the C. trilineatus. Another point of reference is the head, which is marked with short bars as opposed to dots in the C. Julii.

Hi MCT, We realise you must be stressed out at this time.. but you need to understand that there is no "overnight cure" for white spot.. and moreso in the case of treating cold water fish. To understand the cycle that the white spot goes through see here.... http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/grumpy ... 0cycle.htm We can see that in the first stage that the fish gets infected. This can be due to all manner of reasons.. from stress to chills.. to being run down.. or through the introduction of other fish, plants, or anything else that could hold the parasite... even a single drop of water from an infected tank can pass it on. Once these little pests get on the fish they start to feed, and will stay on the fish until such times as they are full and ready to drop off. Heat will speed this process up... but at 21C this could take quite some time.. perhaps a week or more.. and "nothing" you pour in the tank will kill it off. Once they are full they will drop from the fish.. but during this time they are removing all the energy and stamina that the fish has... so the quicker they are removed the better. Once they leave the fish.. then THIS is the ONLY time they are vunerable to any medications.. so it is at this point that you need to get the treatments going. Because these parasites drop from the fish, they are now able to reproduce very quickly, so the more of them you can remove through water changes the better. Siphon the gravel to do this, and take care to dump the water in a safe place. If you hit them at the right time, (when they are off the fish).. then you should erradicate them. Hope you can sort it out. Bill.

As always Caryl.. you do a fantastic job. Many thanks. Bill.

Hi there Grizzly.. and welcome. Hope you find lots of interest here. Bill.

Hi starlyte A warm welcome to the Fishroom. Your problem now is going to be curbing your desire to buy more fish over the next six weeks or so. Read all you can on the starting up process, and if you do it right, then the next six weeks or so will pass quickly and painlessly, but if you rush things... then there could be a lot of expense and heartache for both you and your daughter. All the best,

Welcome to the NZ Fishroom Tsarmina Five little ones will take up a bit of time.. but hopefully you will get time for lots of visits here. Bill.

Hi zoezealand One thing you "mustn't" do if you are going away is "Do not dump a load of food in there to tide them over your absense" If the pool is outside, they will be perfectly happy for a week or ten days, so just give them a "normal" feed prior to leaving and they will be fine. As MCT said... A decent water change might be a good idea.. especially if you had a floater in the tank or pool. Bill.

Hi Shelley, According to your other post in Freshwater... you've got the bug real bad http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/fish-s ... t9585.html Sounds like you had a real fun time. Goldies of that size are pretty gutsy and will just about shovel the food down if there is any competition in the tank. I would find out what they are feeding. Pellet foods tend to be gulped whole.. then they swell up inside the fish. A change of diet might help.. and some suggest skinned peas as being a good way to ease the bowels of the fish. It could be bloat... or if a female... it could be full of roe.. or at the worst.. it could be an internal disorder.. like a tumour.. but if the fish is not suffering, and is acting and feeding fine.. then I certaily wouldn't put it down. What are the conditions... Is it cramped for space.. How big is the tank... Is it well maintained... How often are they fed... ? Bill.

Next job... Check the temperature and make sure your heater has not stuck on. If everything looks ok there... then check that your filter is working and that it is actually filtering the water. Next... do at least a 20% water change and see if they respond as normal. If you have test kits.. check your levels for ammonia... Nitrite and Nitrate. Further water changes may be needed several times a week. HTH Bill.

No apology needed... the choice is entirely yours Having your location up there saves a lot of posts like these, and now we know where you are, we can tell you that there are literally hundreds of members in the Wellington area.. Why not edit your profile and your location will then be on "all" posts that you have made. Back to the topic: Bill.

Do we have any Mouth Brooding Bettas in NZ...? It appears that the ones shown are quite a lot bigger than the standard Betta. Just been reading a post about some that were recently brought into OZ and had spawned within three weeks. According to the post, they appear to be good parents that take care of their young Pics here. http://uk.geocities.com/mohdnooradnin/album1.htm Bill.

Would be "really" nice to know where you are. Truly amazing the amount of members that don't include their location in their profile. One of the best ways to find friends in your area and get help here is by adding your location to your details. Bill.

Welcome to the NZ Fishroom Chris Hope you enjoy your visits here Bill.