Jennifer

That is actually very good reduction of that fracture. It is such a tiny bone - they make it look so easy! It is best if the ends of the fracture align as closely as possible but if there is a delay in reducing the fracture (bringing the ends in line) then a bone 'callus' will start to form, much like scar tissue but it can't fully solidify because it is continually moving. Now that the pin is in place, the callus that starts to form will not be disrupted and new bone cells will form a big bandage over the entire fracture site. The longer the gap, the longer it takes to heal. Love the film, I believe that is mammography film - it shows stunning detail - you can even see detail in the soft tissue! Parrots have such long necks, but they are very thin and covered with a load of feathers - I used to call my guys 'pencil-necked geeks.' :lol:

Spinning your usual magic with the lens I see. Very nice

That's about what my earthquake refugee tank is looking like now - I am liking it more all the time! One door closes, another opens... Edit: My next tank will be a giant Geo biotope like that first link. Drool!

Holy cow man! That's terrible.

http://drsophiayin.com/videos/WhyDogsBite.mp4

Me Ryan, add me. :bounce: Someone else here in town may be looking for a male too, so P44 might need to do a bulk shipment. 8) I have my pair and they are eagerly trying to find a place to spawn - I need to get a tank sorted for them ASAP.

Give it a day. 8) There will be plenty of bubbles.

That's great that you are getting the CO2 up and going. I notice two small issues that can cause big problems so it might pay to remedy the situation if you can: 1. The tubing is extending too far down into the bottle. If the liquid begins to froth, it can get sucked into the tubing. This can be easily fixed by cutting the tubing so that it is just protruding from the underside of the cap. 2. Having the yeast bottle above the tank means that gravity could more easily draw the yeast into the tubing if it gets too frothy. It is safer to have the bottle below the water level.

They are quite full on and I have found that they do better in a species specific tank when breeding. Also, that white sand was biotope correct...but perhaps you were not trying to achieve that effect. Besides, who cares about biotope if you don't like it?

I used to breed heaps of different Geos. It depends on the type you are planning to get. Some are peaceful and some are territorial. Some mouth brood and care for the offspring and some lay eggs on surfaces and eat their eggs, like rams. :-?

Plants that have light will need nutrients. Cut right back on the lights and they won't need as much. However, if you just moved those plants, they may not be established enough yet. Reduce the photoperiod, start feeding the plants so they don't develop a deficiency and do a 50% water change once or twice weekly so they can start growing. Keep removing the cyano and you'll see it all start to stabilise soon.

See this recent thread. You can also use Furan but it doesn't solve the problem. Cyano is present in just about all of our tanks but will take advantage of an opportunity to thrive if conditions are right. Solve the problem with the conditions and you will be sweet.

You have done a great job with this Dennis, well done! I like the way you have clumped the wood and plants around it. I also like how you have used all the same type of rock, that helps with the sense of continuity. The silica sand is a bright contrast but the smaller pebbles help make it look more natural and helps prevent the larger rocks from looking like they are floating. The large rocks protecting the roots of the plants is a great idea to prevent them uprooting everything. Makes me want Geos again. :roll:

Hmm, small insects that like to eat carrion. Maybe ants as well?

Nice pics, very interesting.

Joe, I know you have been wanting these for a while. If you really want them, don't hesitate. They might not be around for long.

Yeah, this had the right shape, but it was small and pale and covered in mulm so the distinctive colour isn't there. Time will tell what the new leaves look like.

Gotta be in the know around these parts. 8) Dennis, I know you aren't too keen on Animates, but I was browsing Tower Junction today and saw some very nice crypts. Hard to tell what they are but they look similar to blassii so I snapped up a couple. Might pay to go get a few of those while they are around.

That sounds like a nice tank. There are a few things you can do to improve the algae situation. You might already know some of this, but I will list it just for clarity: 1. Reduce the photoperiod to about 6 hours (you can increase it to 8 in a few weeks but for now, just minimise the light so the plants wont starve from having such a high demand for nutrients). 2. Remove the carbon from your filter, it isn't needed unless you are trying to remove a particular chemical from the water. If you do ever need to use it, remove it after a couple of weeks or it will start leaching the chemicals back into the water. 3. Get some more plants (sounds like you are well into this already 8) ). This will be one of the key things that will help sort out your problems since lots of healthy plants will soak up the excess nutrients in the water. Even if you get some plants going in there temporarily, that will help. 4. Start dosing with Flourish Comprehensive, about 1ml per 50 litres of tank water, once every other day. Or you can dose with PMDD (a combination fertiliser that is sold by Hans on the forum). Fertilising will start getting the plants growing well. 5. Start dosing with Flourish Excel, dose as listed on the label. This will provide the carbon source that your plants need to be able to utilise the nutrients. Alternatively, you can also use pressurised or DIY CO2 (do a search of the forums for how to do this) but the Excel is quite a bit more stable than DIY CO2 in terms of carbon levels. 6. Take care that you aren't feeding the fish too much. They can live quite happily on a very small amount of food. Excess waste from overfeeding can produce a lot of nutrients that can promote all sorts of problems. 7. For the types of fish you are keeping, you don't really need to add any salt. It is not harmful to add some salt, but it is not beneficial either for most species of fish. 8. Increase your water changes to 50% once weekly. This will remove excess nutrients built up from the fertilising and help keep the tank balanced for good plant growth. There is no need to vacuum every single time you do a water change - although if there is a lot of waste floating around, do remove this if you can. 9. Make sure the flow is good around your plants as this will help them to grow faster by providing ready access to nutrients. No need to over clean your filter, but just make sure it is flowing well. This isn't essential, but it can help a lot and it can also help the the processing of fish wastes. 10. If your light tubes are over a year old, it would be good to replace them with new tubes. They deteriorate after time and this can result in decreased growth from the plants. Hope that helps! Keep us updated.

If you have algae, there are a few things we need to know to help get it sorted. 1. what is your photo period 2. what fertilisers do you use 3. what is your water change regime 4. what sort of plants do you have 5. what sort of fish do you have As a rule, cutting out phosphate is not going to solve your problems - while it will make the algae grow slower, it will also make the plants grow slower from nutrient deficiencies and that will mean that they aren't using nutrients in the water column so you can get all sorts of other algae developing. You can prevent algae by having fast growing plants and by not having too much light (the more light you have, the higher nutrient demand the plants will have). You get fast growing plants by feeding them well (trace nutrients, macronutrients and carbon/CO2). if any of these things are deficient in any way, the plants will not grow well and the algae can take over.

I could have given you loads of wendtii red and affinis, but they melted after the water/power issues during the quake. I agree about the wendtii, it is readily available so you can likely get a decent sized amount. Affinis and blassii are a couple of my personal faves, but you might find it hard to source blassii.

Any pics? What sort of fertilisers do you use?

Don't! You are bringing back my botany days at uni! :lol: Too long ago now... :roll: Nice work Simon.

RTM Pro, Justin.tv (or U Stream), Toki tori, Iceage, Twitter, Facebook, Evernote, Skype, Pocket Informant, Adobe Photoshop, Pocket Universe, Theodolite, Unit conversions, NetTV, BeejiveIM... I could go on

Mine have all sorts of spots that come and go as they camouflage themselves in the plants. Yours looks pretty normal to me based on that photo but if the spots appear persistent, like wounds or the fish seems unwell there might be something else going on.