David R

Its been done before, but you'd want a big tank...

+1 for stone and water world, got some nice bits of schist from there the other day, just over a dollar a kilo, so not too expensive too.

Possibly up to $200 depending on size, colour etc. PM me with pics if you're selling.... 8)

http://www.boudillion.com/road/mullet.jpg <- mullet. Tankmates for sevs can be trial and error, depends a lot on tank size and temperment. But anything thats too big to be eaten, and that isn't super aggressive is worth trying.

They're still eating, love the frozen biosupplies green tucker. I'll try letting some defrost a little, sprinkle some crushed metro over it and re-freeze.

I have mine on fine grit, no problems.

I wouldn't trust a tank that size on anything that wasn't specifically built to support 220kg+....

So I should be using metro, I've got tablets from the vet before, 400mg for 40L water right? How frequently would you dose and how big a water change do you do in between doses? I've got a pair of large uaru in a 300L tank. Cheers

My green is very delicate and graceful when it comes to picking food off the bottom, the big dat on the other hand just sucks it in along with a big mouthful of sand! If you feed floating pellets you should be fine, I've heard of bichirs eating gravel but not aros.

So I should be using metro to treat the fluffy white poos not prazi?

Sorry for dragging up an old thread, but it is a useful one... I've just got some Adtape liquid from the vet, their instruction was to dose at 5ml per 100 litres, which seems considerably lower than the above recommendation. I'm using it to treat my pair of uaru who have white fluffy kinda poo. Yesterday I dosed at the vets recommended 5ml/100L, and 24 hours later I did a 40% water change and repeated the dose. Should I increase the dosage to 26ml/100L? and how often and how far apart should I dose?

I just ignore it and hope it goes away.

Possibly? I was down there a couple of months ago and there were people filling up numerous 20L drums from it...

I'd probably use a bigger bin than that tank just to transport them.....

If thats what you're trying to achieve there are better ways to do it than that. I'd look into setting up a continuous drip system to change ~10% of the water daily, that will help keep the nitrates low and the water clean.

Mark I think you should write biosecurities a very long and serious email regarding the proliferation of this invasive species that has destroyed huge areas of natural habitat and has no import health standard and should most certainly be containment only...

Why are you storing the water?

Sam if you are in Manukau and Adoge is in Epsom the water will be coming from two different places. You will find all tap water has a high pH to prevent it from eroding copper pipes, but the kh and gh are low and it is easy to drop the pH. I'm in Pakuranga so will be on the same supply as you. I fill a 200L barrel from the tap 24 hours before a water change and dose it with Prime to remove the chlorine etc (and put a heater in over winter to warm it up). I have a pump in the bottom of the barrel and pump it into my tanks after a water change. I have found the pH drops below 8 while sitting over night, and in my 800L 6' which has a few big bits of wood I've had to put some coral rubble in the sump to prevent the pH dropping below 6. I also do 250-300L water changes in my two biggest tanks and top up the remaining 50-100L straight out of the hose with no prime or pre-heating, and my fish are fine (clown loaches, angels, uaru, etc). How big are your tank/s and how much water do you usually change?

Move to Japan?

Shame half of them can't actually be imported.......

Exactly, although I rarely test water on an established tank I think not testing it at all is just foolish, unless you don't value your fish. I just bought home six big (6-7") clown loaches, and there is no way I'd even dream of moving them with out knowing the pH of the tank they're coming out of and the pH of the tank they're going into. Its a good thing I did check too, his tank was just under 7 and mine was below 6!! A few water changes later and some coral in the sump and it was a lot closer and I felt safe to bring the fish home.

We don't know either... :-?

I use TIME to cycle my tanks, works really well, cheaper than all those off-the-shelf products too. If you really want to spend money cycling your tank I'll sell you some seeded filter material and old water.

Your best bet is to talk to an importer if you want fish that are on the list but never seem to get imported. But if you're doing it to save money you're wasting your time. Compared to most I think its actually quite a cheap hobby. My biggest tank cost about $2200 to set up, and there's about $1800 worth of fish in it. All I have to do now is pay the power and food bills and I'll have years of enjoyment...

Looks like a rotkeil to me, couldn't say what sex though. Nice fish...