tHEcONCH

Oh, yes, that. I thought you were talking about something else...

Yes, but the nutritional value drops dramically - you want the fry to eat the baby shrimp whilst the baby shrimp still have egg-sacs - that is absorbed in just a few hours. Even so, if it gets the fry eating, that it is still worthwhile. Good luck!

:lol:

It depends upon the species of shrimp, but my baby Blue Rams ate the JBL (Francisco? variety) Artemia no probs.

What do you think I have? I wouldn't like to reveal all my secrets too soon...

Baby Brine Shrimp are the go...

Hmmm... maybe...

It was sold to me as a 'Red Chilli Leather', but exactly what it is I don't know. It certainly has a strong feeding response, so I guess perhaps it might be primarily carnivorous. Cool colour

:lol:

Here are a few pics as promised...

A new little something appeared in my RSM over the weekend (lets hope the Wife doesn't notice)...

Is any of that orange coral for sale?

What? Who will stand around looking at all the marine tanks in Organism!?!!?!?!?!!!

Another bit of minor RSM info - the screws that hold the latch on for the door are a little bit long - mine have created points on the OUTSIDE where they have nearly come through, so it might be worth putting a small washer under the heads... or not.

I rotate JBL Gala (a mixture of flake and bloodworms), JBL Grana Ciclid, and JBL Novobits as the staple (they get each for a day or two), but every weekend they get frozen bloodworms. Quantity is a little harder to give advice on because Discus are often 'grazers' and it depends on their size and what other fish you have in your tank, but you need to make sure that there isn't much left over after about 10 minutes. If there is, reduce the amount you feed.

I'm a bit new to the marine side of things, but frankly I haven't seen anything that suggests marine aquarists, as a group, are any different from freshwater aquarists or cat or dog owners, for that matter - there are the good and bad, and the plain stooopid. I've got a pretty modest set-up containing some pretty expensive corals and I do do my best to keep them happy (which can be measured in dollars - I estimate it costs me about $50-$80/week), but I've seen some pretty impressive equipment owned by complete bone-heads housing a few sad survivors. I'd agree with reef in that money plays a role - unless you are willing and able to pay the startup, stocking, and RUNNING COSTS of your set-up, both in terms of cash and time, you won't be successful and should leave rarer and harder corals alone, but as price-points are relative to income, its always going to be a pretty blunt and ineffective tool for keeping 'dodgy' keepers away from certain corals. I'm lucky (stoopid?) enough to be able to buy expensive corals, but I wouldn't say that it makes be a better keeper. Ultimately I think it turns on your own concience, not money. I do care about my corals, which is why I'm happy to spend money on what they need to survive and hopefully thrive, but how do you convince some lunk with dollars to spend that he shouldn't buy that coral because he doesn't care enough?

EErrr... I don't mean to be rude, but perhaps you shouldn't be keeping these fish until you know what their requirements are, and how you are going to meet those requirements - they simply will not breed if they are stressed. I personally think that peat might not be to their liking, and given the variance in peat's effect on water chemistry you might end up with a few problems if you put it into the tank itself. I'd recommend you start with an inert substate with a particle size as close to what they naturally live in as possible (don't use silica sand - its sharp and will irritate their gills) - perhaps you could collect some mud and heat sterilise it, and then adjust your water chemistry to match the natural environment they come from. Given that mud is very good at trapping detritus, you are going to have to have massive filtration available to control the waste products that will leach into the water from it - you might also find that the sticks etc aren't that important in themselves and that the fish simply use the shade provided to control their temperature. If you need tanins in the water, you might be best to introduce peat into the filter and monitor the water chemistry as you go, removing it if the ph begins to crash. Good luck, and if the fish begin to look sick release them back into the wild before there are fewer left than when you started.

The problem is that they only eat certain types of Algae, so although you might have algae in your tank, they might not be able to eat it. Try cleaning your log / plants, etc, and feeding them algae based foods - you need to keep them healthy and get the right kind of algae growing (which will displace the other kinds) in your tank before they will keep things under control.

Any of the tetras look good in larger number (20+) so whatever catches your eye, really.

You could try Blue Rams, any of the tetras (larger scholls of them always look great), Hatchets etc. Check out what the shops hold in their tanks with Angels and you'll get a fairly good idea.

It depends a little on the age of each and if they are a true mated pair, but I don't think it is such a good idea. They are both territorial and can get aggressive during 'mating season', and the Angels are also greedy feeders so the Discus might struggle to get enough food - given the size of the tank I'd recommend sticking to the Angels only.

Shaken or stirred, Mr Bond?

I'd err on the side of caution and go ith 12mm - if you think of the total investment including all the stock and time, the price difference of using the thicker glass is pretty minimal.

Is that a Rose Anemone?