tHEcONCH

I have breeding pairs of Red Turqoise Discus, Oscars, Blue Rams, Matto Grosso Plecs, and Royal Whips that regularly spawn, but I usually don't bother raising the fry because I don't want to have to find homes for all the fish - that said, I have a few baby Royal Whiptails that I'm growing out. My favourite fish is possibly the Oscars, but I'm not certain of that really - they are all cool

I've had mixed results with Jaeger too, although no failures as such. Some of them get condensation on the inside - it doesn't seem to affect their function but casts some doubt about their sealing. Still better than Aqua One and Jebo - I've had one of each and they have both failed within a couple of months.

:lol:

Hmmmm....

No.

Organism had some - ring 351 3001 and see if he still does.

Yes.

No.

Yes.

Here's something cool:

Does anyone know where I might find a 'White' Sun Coral?

I'd use two canisters, rather than a sump for a freshwater tank, but in answer to your question about sumps, you only pump water TO the tank. As the water level tries to rise, it runs out an overflow (you'll need to drill a hole in the back of the tank at the level you want the water surface to be) and gravity takes it to the sump, where the pump picks it up again and returns it.

You may also want to try increasing the circulation in the tank - algal spores can't 'take root' if they can't settle.

I assume the water was contaminated via the rusty / stuffed bits of the pipe (tree roots and soil etc. maybe)?

Awesome!

I have been pleasantly suprised - we had a new Street-to-house main fitted a few months ago (Butyl cf the old Galv pipe), and I now have PH 7, KH6, and NO PHOSPHATE (or anything else I can test for).

Just wait.

Do a retest to confirm, and if your water tests are favourable (they appear to be) and you have other fish that are fine, it may be that the fish is still getting used to your particular water chemistry - I'd just wait a couple of days and see if anything develops. You could test for copper, phosphate etc., but all the fish would be affected if those substances were present to dangerous levels. There is no point doing anything until you can pinpoint the cause - otherwise you'll just compound the problem.

Extremely uncommon - most fish succumb to something else and die long before velvet takes effect - I think it is more common overseas where they have heavily treated water.

Yea, Silver Hatchets, Pencils, Discus, a couple of Peppermint Plecs... its a community tank. They just do their thing on the glass down one end.

Some good advice from JoeBlog from another thread...

Reefroids and baby snails

Anyone else? I might just have to go down to my local yellow pet store and take some of my own!

Yes, turn it off. Read the instructions that came with the equipment - you can probably just pull the UV module out.

You can't see flukes with the naked eye. Start with the basics: make sure your water is right and leave the temperature where it is. Wait until you can positively diagnose an illness BEFORE you start treating - treating for an illness that you can't positively identify isn't a very good idea - you'll make the fish sick trying random medications. Here's some info on Flukes from an article I wrote... Gill and Skin Flukes Flukes are a kind of parasite that attach themselves to specific parts of the fish. Different flukes attach different parts of the body. There is a particular gill fluke that is known to occur only in Discus gills, and is responsible for the death of many juvenile fish. Most adult Fish tolerate small numbers of flukes without bother - young and weakened fish may succumb to outbreaks. What it looks like: Skin and Gill Flukes are usually invisible to the naked eye, but the behaviour of the fish can indicate an infection. Fish that 'flash' or 'strike' objects in the tank may be irritated by skin flukes - those that breathe heavily through one gill whilst clamping the other shut may have gill flukes. What causes it: Flukes are parasites that can be carried by Adult fish with little effect. Adult fish can usually suppress any outbeak through their own immune system's defences, however young fish, or uninfected fish that are bought into contact with 'carriers' can be overwhelmed before they develop immunity. What to do: Check you water parameters. Treat with Fluke Tabs or Trichlorphon, following the manufactures instructions. Most remedies are organo-phosphates, which lose potency rapidly (especially in humid atmospheres), so buy fresh supplies as you need them and don't store them in your fishroom. Read the warning labels - strong doses of organo-phosphates kill certain fish (like elephant fish) instantly. There are other treatments, however they involve dangerous chemicals and specialist knowledge, and along with the remedies mentioned above can kill other kinds of fish instantly.