JDM

Here’s my 2 cents don’t dump the water, get some clean drums from somewhere to transport as much of the water as possible, get one or two of the large plastic containers with lids and rollers from the warehouse (about $13ech) and put rocks and water in there, this will also double as a holding tank while you move the tank and stand (just put one of your heaters in the container with the rock and fish when you arrive at your new house) bag the fish like the pet shop dose and when you arrive at your new house you can release them into the container with the heater and you now have ages to set up everything. if the rock is kept damp you will not need to re-cycle the tank, if you cannot take all the water with you, have some salt mix ready and add the new water last, once everything is back in the tank, this will save the need for acclimatising the fish. Good luck, it’s not as hard as you first think.

i got 2 of them from HFF, put them in my tank and never saw them again, $110 well spent :lol: , 3 weeks later i brought another $33 bottle of joes juice and delt to the problem myself.

i can test your mg, you should really have a test kit if your adding it though, how do you know what to add if you cant test for it? bring over a water sample, send me a text first to see if im home, got to get my stiches out tonight. raglan water is about 1320 mg so its all good.

I had a similar problem when I cycled my first tank, I did a 90% water change after waiting 10 weeks for nitrite to drop, this left a nitrite reading of about 5 (from memory) and that dropped over the next week. Not sure if the experts would agree with this method though. I just matched the temp and salinity and dumped it in. This is provided you don’t have any animals in there at the moment.

nitrate now is still 50, just did full tests (sunday is my testing day) po4 is now only a very sligt blue depending on what light its under, basiclly clear so very close to 0.0, wasp can you please link a write up on po4 related to reducing nitrates, seems my fludizer has kicked there butts and i may need to ture it off to let them rise agan? i will search the redfeild ratio now and see what i find but any extra info wold be great.

ease up Layton, that is not the way i saw it unfold at all.

DITTO! i must say i really enjoy these discussions, only while there polite but i have learnt a thing or to, and its good to have both sides to an opinion, not to mention the entertainment factor :lol:

long time dude, where you been? are you taking out that table like platform thingy? (technical name) if you are i could be interested

Welcome :roll:

just thought i would check if your getting confuised between "arcadia" the brand and "actinic" the light spectrium?

are you adding baking soda? can you list what additives are you using please? kalkwasser (lime water)? what is your ph now? seems very strange that kh is rising, normally its keeping it up that is the problem. have you tested the water you use for water changes (ASW or NSW)?

cool! what did you upgrade to? 250w?

DITTO still interested to hear where people have there skimmers set at the moment? mine is set back to the normal level that produces dark tea colored water, with an approx 10% sludge content. approx 200mls every 4-5 days.

that kh reading is not that high, prior to zeo i ran my kh between 12-13. in my experance leathers "change there water" and can sometimes not open for a number of days, keep an eye on it, if it starts to look glossy on the surface then this could be a sign of infection, or if it begins to crumble then that is a bad sign, other wise i would just keep watching it. has it got good flow over it? leathers like lots of flow to keep them clean, try that?

HOLYCOW!!!!! dam thats excellent. have you tested your tank yet? or you still using the eyeometer? can we get a full tank shot? be nice to see all that algie gone.

its still running, i have run out of zeobak so cant dose that but still with zeostart and zeofood7. i have the po4 fliudizer running and when the denitrator arrives i will stop with zeo completely, but i might return to it later.

:bounce:

I have been playing with my skimmer over the last week, changing the level inside the chamber and watching the difference between the color of skimate produced. i can get from very very dark sludge like skimate to basically light brown water, and anywhere in between. other than the removal of water, is there any reason why we all tend to skim quite dry? i assume the change in skimate color will involve the different proteins removed, but is dry better? and why or why not?

spot on (no pun intended) i have dealt with white spot many ways, fresh water dip, copper, and doing nothing, i know it might be hard but doing nothing worked best for me, both other options resulted in losing the fish, as the stress caused by moving them when there already sick is normally the beginning of the end from my experience. just make sure your water quality is excellent, try not to make any sudden changes, and soak your food in garlic juice, this will aid the appetite of all the fish but its the sick one you want to get fat, if he eats well and the water quality is perfect then you have the best chance of pulling him through.

:lol: mine dose that all the time, PITA. mine wont even let the putty set!

simpsons? is that still going. dont have time for tv bro. was it one of the pub prank phone calls that bart makes? some of them were funny.....

down on some of that bro, ill bring up a frag or 2 on sunday

that's rather nice of you Ben, from that email addy I'm guessing your just about to come out of the closet! :lol:

worth while reading, adds to my understanding of nitrate. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm might be worth adding to the sticky?

im not on that mailing list, but i must agree with evil, you the man! from your instructions, you have spent alot of time on these little packages, even including some aqua kneed it! way to go wasp , shame i wont be getting any suprise mail.