SpidersWeb

Watch out for the masterpets, they're nasty. I'm still running one but keep my eye on it.

pH up makes it more alkaline. So does baking soda, in fact they're usually the same thing

Yeah my Jebo heaters have slowly failed one by one. Best heater I've used by far now is AquaOne. Not the cheapest but I've never had one fail.

Ohh sorry to hear I should have mentioned that, the mother of the two you got from me really did a number on dad. We gave him his own cave to keep out of her sight. Wasn't bad enough we had to remove thim though? Good luck with the eggs

That's the best idea I've heard!

If you are raising the eggs yourself, keep them pitch black. No light at all.

I dont float my bags for tropicals and here is why: a) The temp between the bag and the tank will be almost the same, if anything the tank will be only a couple of degrees warmer. Exception made for long trips. b) when the bag water warms up ammonia builds up in the bag, not pleasant for the fish, or the occupants whom tank is about to get dumped with dirty water. c) Fish in bag will be freaking out and causing more stress The exception being when its a very fragile fish, and pH changes are expected. In which case you're probably better off mixing the water 1/4, then 1/2, then release over a period of 10-15 minutes rather than dump. I have my tanks usually in the low 7s, which is very common, so haven't had this issue. Ideally you'd use a Q tank or net the fish from the bag and move them without taking the water with you. I don't always take my own advice, but its what I've found to be best from practice and reading.

Am I good or what All good Mincie, should go perfect for you.

or bring it to me, I'll have it done in 5 minutes. Two top tips for you: - don't plug it in and touch the wire or have hand near bulb at same time, as cool as it looks on TV, its not very healthy - make sure the wires don't touch And when you put it together make sure the insulation goes all the way in, if in your finished connection you can see copper sticking out then its not safe at all. If you just touch the phase when it's on you'll get the whack of your life. Make sure its a good connection too, none of this 'meh its half on' shinnigins because you could lead yourself to a fire over time. I'd expect (judging by the output wire size) that thermostat would be good for around 5A (or 1100W), but if you can find out the actual rating that'll help. Even if it's only 1A, a 100W bulb would be fine.

Sorry to hear that Dixon I think a big thing people miss when reading the article is the discussion of the water itself. It's more than just pH. He also measures conductivity, and gets the water precise to conditions. I'd mix RO water with either rain or tap water until the correct conductivity is desired (you can buy conductivity/pH meters off tardme). For conditioning I'd be feeding the females microworms, BBS, and decap BBS as often as possible. Plankton worked well for my Danios too (has a crazy protein percentage). If you get them to breed, you want TONNES not just a few, so get as many fat ladies as you can

haha yes but no more NAND circuit, so will have to give up every zig.

Ok so did some experimenting last night and had one of those 'OH YOU IDIOT' moments, actually a few. 1. I blew a channel on the NAND from having a 16 pin socket fitted with the 14pin chip, and I forgot, and had the pins in the wrong place (before I"d had this perfect, was just taking it out and putting it back to do soldering). 2. after getting my NAND circuit working, which required 3 NAND gates in the end, I realised I don't even need the stupid 4011 NAND chip. Transistors will do this job perfectly, and I've tested it, and yes they do. Idea is to feed the clock signal in to all of their bases (which belong to us), then the outputs 0-7 from the decade counter to the first collector, output 8 for the second collector, and output 9 to the third collector. The result is you have 3 emitters that pulse in time, one will go 8 times, then the next, then the next, then start over. Much more simplier than using logic gates, and is easier to work with. So I should be able to get the serial register cranking, and get somewhere. EXCEPT I don't have any god damn money or fuel. I need more transistors or a desoldering tool. poopy. Not sure if anyone is still actually following this, but depsite my booboo's I'm having a tonne of fun learning about this stuff via experimentation. I haven't built any kind of circuit since I was about 16 (over a decade ago :oops: )

Yeah I'm remember the old set Helen had, they did that. My GG does it as well, grabs a bit of courgette, then whisks it to the other end of the tank where he quietly rips it to shreads.

They keep it, but it gets duller.

Some good tips there I wanted to add though that siamese fighters do not fight if they grow up together AND you don't remove them from the tank or rearrange the tank. If you do either, they'll want to establish territory. Haven't done this myself, but have been told by several breeders this when talking at club meetings.

What I do (with an empty cannister, e.g. no water), is unplug the output, leaving the valve open (or open the air lock release if you have one), remove intake pipe, suck on intake pipe, and just before the water starts syphoning itself all over the floor you turn the tap off, then connect to cannister. Use this to fill the canister, then when its full turn off the intake, hookup the output, plug it in, and turn both taps to on. Never have to do it again unless you fill the intake with air.

I always disturb the water surface in my tanks, even when I was injecting CO2, otherwise I had this scum build up as well. Doesn't need to be a roaring rapid, just so the water doesn't sit still. To see if its moving drop in a leaf, and watch its movement, no matter where you put it it should move slowly.

How big is it? Looks a little small for angels in the photo (at least adult angels anyway). Angels do grow quite quick. Looks like a nice tidy setup you've got

The cloudy green stuff, is probably spot algae. Use a glass scraper for glass tanks, or a soft sponge with pressure for acrylic tanks. Not sure what the white stringy stuff is. A photo would be great if you have a digital camera. I'd offer to pop around and have a look in the weekend but I'm out of gas!

Sorry should have explained. I got two street names mixed up, taranaki and wakefield, I was rather embarassed when I got the email back from jaycar asking if i needed a little map :oops: Didn't work on project last night, but maybe tomorrow.

I haven't ever worried about pH, my tanks are all 7.5ish anyway, its more about it being stable. I've heard of GBAs breeding in ph8 @ 28C as well. For the life of me I've never been able to get a pH below 7.

The lesson here is clear. When illegally importing fish, use lead fish bags.

Anything they'll eat. I think Spinach is a good one. We used to make a home made mix up, shrimp, spinach, bulk buy african cichlid pellets, and lots of beefheart. They love high protein stuff like bloodworms, but if they get on a meat diet (e.g. they stop eating healthy stuff), it can lead to hole in the head disease later on. Ones I used to live with loved earthworms and neon tetras on special occasions.

You said algae eater in your post. Remember, Siamese Algae Eater good (Flying Fox good too) Chinese Algae Eater or Golden Algae Eater bad, cute when young, but when they grow up you'll hate it. SAE's eat black beard algae, but I'd still recommend a common or golden bristlenose to do cleanup duties for you. Red fin black sharks can be trouble in some situations, and get quite large, will also happily snack on guppies. Look gorgeous but not my favourite fish.

Sorry for late reply, around $60.