alanmin4304

You can decap it yourself then store it in brine in the fridge and hatch later. Details should be available if you ask Mrs Google.

As stated above, CO2 without good lights and ferts is realy a waste of time. I would suggest you get the whole three right and not worry about the pH or get rid of the CO2 and lose the fluctuations problem.

Reptiles generally brumate over winter when there is less food and less heat to help them get theit metabolic rate up to digest food. My L. aurea brumated last winter for a few months inside at about 16 to 18 degrees. My lizards are brumating at the moment.

About now the frogs will be starting to brumate so they will stop eating and become pretty dormant.

The shells will react with the carbonic acid from the CO2 and make the water harder.

Serious

If you were making wine you would use a wine yeast, yeast nutrient (a little marmite is cheaper) and a medium sweet wine (demi sec) would have about 2.5 lbs sugar/gallon water. Adding a heat pad or element will help as well.

As a part time brewer in a previous life I can explain. Yeast multiplies in the presence of air, so a small amount of yeast will become a lot of yeast until you seal the bottle and exclude the air. When sealed from air it ferments the sugar and produces equal volumes of CO2 and ethanol. The sugar you use is a complex sugar so the yeast has to split it to simple sugars before fermenting it so that will slow the reaction slightly I guess. Brewers often use invert sugar which is simple sugars and ferments quicker. You can also feed the reaction by adding food for the yeast (yeast nutrient) that you can buy from a brewers supply shop. A small amount of marmite is the cheapest. Wine yeasts are stronger than beer yeasts and will ferment more sugar for longer. The yeast will ferment until it runs out of sugar or is inhibited by the amount of ethanol present. Make wine and waste not assuming you are old enough.

They survive down here even over winter in the frost so they can handle the cold. What have you been feeding them? I lost a few L. aurea when I fed them mealworms and I think they died of compaction.

I use CO2 from a cylinder and it turns off when the lights go off. Diy cannot be turned off at night or it will blow the bottle up (unless you run it to waste). If you run it continuously you will not get so much variation in pH.

They are noisy and smelly and will probably lay eggs in the "cotton wool."

When you inject CO2 it forms carbonic acid and lowers the pH. That lowering of the pH is used as a way of measuring how much CO2 is getting added and those figures are pretty normal.

Are they showing a pinkish tint to the belly and inside back legs?

That range is no problem with CO2 being added. My tank could vary more than that at times.

The decap is freeze dried so will be OK if it stays dry and try and see with hatching the other.

The pronunciation is different with the H even if it is not "fong." If it upsets the locals you could move down south to Ngai Tahu land and it would be spelt correctly. We have Kowai Point so Wanganui would not be a problem. I am guessing that you still have kowhai trees up your way.

Yes, but they are not great in food value

Ready for conference?

Fish will often suck babies our through a net so you would be better to put the eggs in a floating plastic container with an airstone and a drop of meth blue.

Welcome and enjoy your time here.

Bees have a habit of cleaning the hive and dropping the waxy waste onto mother's washing line next door.

Welcome.

I assume you intend to breed the mice and feed the pinkies

Welcome back and enjoy again

Welcome and enjoy your time here.