Jump to content

HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR PONDS CRYSTAL CLEAR?


IOU1

Recommended Posts

HI GUYS,

I HAVE EMPTIED OUT MY POND TODAY BECAUSE THE ALGAE IN THE WATER MADE THE WATER TURN GREEN :o . IT DOESN'T HAVE ANY FILTRATION BUT THE WATER IS CONSTANTLY MOVING FROM THE WIND. I HAVE THESE TABLETS THAT KEEP IT CLEAN, WOULD THEY STOP FISH BREEDING AND DESTROY LIVE PLANTS?

HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR PONDS CLEAN? :)

I WAS THINKING TO SELL MY ORANDAS IN THERE NOW AND GET SOME RED RAMSHORN SNAILS AND WHITE CLOUD MOUNTAIN MINNOWS OR LEOPARDFISH, MY LFS SUPPLIES BOTH, WHAT DO YOU RECKON?

MY THEORY WAS IF THEY WERE LEFT ALONE THEY WOULD HAVE YOUNG FRY AND SOME WOULD SURVIVE IN A PLANTED POND.

WHAT PLANTS DO YOU RECOMMEND?

ANY IDEAS? :-?

THANKS :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be nice if you took the capslock off please IOU1, we aren't deaf! :wink:

The water in a pond will go green if too much sunlight or too many nutrients. Ways to help keep the water clear are to make sure about 2/3 of the surface area is covered in plants. Shade cloth over the pond helps too. It is almost time to start feeding pond fish again (I hope). Goldfish semi hibernate once the water temp drops below 10C so do not eat during this time. Once the lowest temp overnight doesn't drop below this, it is time to slowly start feeding small amounts again.

Wind movement will do nothing for or against algae (or anything else), unless your pond is hit by a tornado. In which case you will not need to empty the pond as it will already be so.

You should NOT need to use tablets to keep a pond clean. How large is it? A filter may help.

The fish will spawn in the summer months.

If the tablets are to kill algae then they will also affect plants as plants are just a higher form of algae (or algae is a lower form of plant :wink: )

You can try the barley straw trick too. The Feb '04 Aquarium World had instructions in it about how it works and how much you need.

Whitecloudes and leoparfish will survive warmer months in the pond but for many areas it gets too cold in winter, although covering the pond would help. The trouble with both these species is they are small and hard to see from above so tend to disappear when viewed from above in a pond situation. Leopardfish particularly are hard to see in a pond because of their colouring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My minnows winter over in my pond in Wlg so think they be okay in Akl. I know other down here also leave them out year round. they breed fine in my pond as well.

A UV filter will keep you water clear. but I just have heaps of plants in mine and it okay most of the time. I have no pumps etc in there. And the only water change I do is when it rains.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok. My pond is only a few hundred litres at the most. :(

Suphew- how clear does the pond need to be to breed the minnows?

I don't really have the space to accomodate the baby orandas and hate the thought of culling.

I might sell my three orandas and three comets then in a few days if anyone is interested, or I'll put them on trademe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have a couple of wine barrows just over 100L and i have no pump at all just a large plant in each and the water is crystal clear one has a lily and the other has a Hippuris Vulgaris which is better for spawning if thats what u want to do.

if u want to spawn WCMM then the snails are a bad idea as they will eat all the eggs before they get the chance to hatch. WCMM will be fine though winter they can handle very cold climates. they're from White Cloud Mountain in China after all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe they only spawn between 18 and 22 degrees celsious

Don't know if this is true or not but I would be supprised if my pond ever got that warm and they breed fine, what they do need to spawn is a dose of cold water, i.e. quick temp drop, this is because in their natural environment they breed when it rains.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The water is still green even though I emptied the whole thing out and refilled it. :o I migh give some minnows a go then because as I said I don't have the grow ponds etc for thousands of orandas.

I'll find a temporary tank for the orandas and sell them on trademe.

Does anyone have any pond plants or white cloud mountain minnows (even mutations) that they would sell? Any other cold water fish like the WCMM I should know of?

No one has mentioned leopardfish, aren't these suitable?

Couldn't really see the fish in the pond anyway. :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Completely emptying ponds and refilling a pond is as inappropriate in a pond, as it is in an aquarium. All the same factors effecting algae apply, ie nutrients, light etc.

Algae blocks should not be used in a pond with poor circulation, wind on surface constitutes poor circulation, as Dying algae will deoxygenate the water.

Plants will remove a degree of nutrient from the water, but here in NZ, where ponds are usually built too shollow and often out of unsealed concrete, and with far too few plants, it is often necessary to install a UV Biofilter and appropriate Dirty Water pump. Some large, well designed ponds, or very sheltered/understocked ponds can remain healthy and clean simply with good management, many cannot and need additional help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did hose it down and then scoop out all the water and repeated again. The water oly has a slight green colour but you can still see the bottom. Interesting to hear about the dying algae, I'll get some plants and see how it turns out. The pond is quite shallow. Thanks for your help. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi same kind of problem I have. Water is clear but the rocks (water fall) are covered in brown algae. What do I use to get rid of this.

If your pond has green water and the water out the tap is fine just turn the tap on and let it over flow. Easyest water change ever.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most tap water in NZ is unsuitable to be added straight to a pond in large quanities because of chlorine, heavy metals etc. If your water changes from green to clear just by putting in the hose you have done a huge/complete waterchange. If you wish to waterchange a pond then it is advisable to pump out 1/3 of the water and top it back up with appropriately treated/aged water. This reduces stress on the fish and will also reduce the amount of benefical bacteria lost/killed. By maintaining this bacteria you will actually make your life easier and you pond will remain cleaner longer (just like in an aquarium). If you have no biofilter then it is adviasable to provide a base of gravel in the pond as this will help to provide a larger surface area for bacterial colonies to form.

If you wish to completely remove all algae from the pond, including that which forms on the rocks, then an inline copper ioniser will treat this for you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...