Fee

A UV Clarifier will not stop algae growing on the glass, it will stop green water problems. UV clarifiers are still a useful addition, but will only treat items suspended in the water that passes through it. If you wish to reduce algae growth on the glass have a look at the nutrient levels in the tank- NO3 & PO4, algae can't grow without food.

Fishlopaedia by Mary Bailey & Peter Burgess & is the book being issued to students taking the Certificate in Companion Animal Services for Aquatics. The course is run by the Mahurangi Institute of Technology. The book has not many pics for disease ID, but quite alot of good info about disease and treatment, also lots of other information on fish husbandry.

I have both books, both are good; Bassleers is more current, although Deiter has recently written an updated version, German Only. Bassleers will also be available with a CD-rom version later this year. Bassleers book uses both origional names for meds and also distributors and brand names. Not all meds are available "Off the Shelf" in NZ- because of legislation in NZ governing the registration of veterinary meds, and others may be difficult to extract from Vets due to changes in rules governing the distribution and use of antibiotics. Bassleers book is designed to be used in conjuction with a Microscope, many pics are not going to assit with diagnosis with the "naked eye", but this is the case with many fish diseases. Aquarium Munster microscopes are available from fish shops in NZ, PM for stockists

88Kgs is the difference- 1Kg per litre

I agree that "nature" does a great job, however nature isn't what is happening in an average aquarium, it's a completely unnatural environment with the fish far removed from their original environment & conditions, even those that are captive bred are not usually accustomed to our water conditions having often originated from fish farms in Asia. Plus that which comes out of our taps is not exactly as nature intended with additives from fertiliser runoff, plus chlorine & floride in some cases. Even in the fishes Natural environment our impact can be felt as tree felling and mangrove clearage for agriculture/industry disrupts nutrient exchange. Before some of the more recent advances in aquarium care, there were many aquarium inhabitants that could not be successfully kept in captivity and there are still plenty that suffer much shortened lives where a bit of water testing & intervention could easily have saved them. My opinion is just that sometimes science has to step in to correct imbalances and to make sure that we are offering the best environment for our pets. I think I may have gone a bit off track from the origional distilled water question... :roll: I guess people will do what is right for their circumstances, but at a minimum I would recommend knowing what your tap water starts out like-testing pH, kH, gH as a minimum, plus NO3 & PO4 if in a rural setting. If you don't want to purchase test kits then your LFS will often provide this service. Also a knowledge of the requirements of the fish you keep so that if you choose not to make any adjustments you can at least keep fish that will tolerate the water you provide.

Potable levels of Nitrate & phosphate found in some water supplies are MUCH higher than can possibly be recommended for aquarium use. I can also safely drink water with a pH of 8- not great if you're keeping Cardinal Tetras, or a pH of 5, fairly intolerable for a group of Tropheus for instance. RO filtration is a reasonable and necessary method of preparing water for many aquarium circumstances. Usually needing adjustment post filtration (to increase gH & kH for instance) it can allow the aquarist to taylor their water to the exact requirements of their pets. DI units can also be added to increase the level of filtration, particularly useful for Saltwater Aquaria where impurites are much less tolerated.

NZ Eels spend part of their life in Cold/Temperate Freshwater in NZ & part of their spawning migration involves time in Tropical Saltwater. Visit: www.niwascience.co.nz/ncfa/aquaspecies/eel I would imagine that if you acclimatised them sensibly they would adapt to alot of conditions.

you do in Tirau.

Most tap water in NZ is unsuitable to be added straight to a pond in large quanities because of chlorine, heavy metals etc. If your water changes from green to clear just by putting in the hose you have done a huge/complete waterchange. If you wish to waterchange a pond then it is advisable to pump out 1/3 of the water and top it back up with appropriately treated/aged water. This reduces stress on the fish and will also reduce the amount of benefical bacteria lost/killed. By maintaining this bacteria you will actually make your life easier and you pond will remain cleaner longer (just like in an aquarium). If you have no biofilter then it is adviasable to provide a base of gravel in the pond as this will help to provide a larger surface area for bacterial colonies to form. If you wish to completely remove all algae from the pond, including that which forms on the rocks, then an inline copper ioniser will treat this for you.

Completely emptying ponds and refilling a pond is as inappropriate in a pond, as it is in an aquarium. All the same factors effecting algae apply, ie nutrients, light etc. Algae blocks should not be used in a pond with poor circulation, wind on surface constitutes poor circulation, as Dying algae will deoxygenate the water. Plants will remove a degree of nutrient from the water, but here in NZ, where ponds are usually built too shollow and often out of unsealed concrete, and with far too few plants, it is often necessary to install a UV Biofilter and appropriate Dirty Water pump. Some large, well designed ponds, or very sheltered/understocked ponds can remain healthy and clean simply with good management, many cannot and need additional help.

May have nothing to do with it, but have you tested the tap water for contaminants? (especially if it's bore, roof or spring)

Yes to all questions.

Reef, I'm not sure what your question is refering to, I was just trying to answer this question and the response that followed it earlier in the thread.

I would imagine someone in NZ knows what's in it, and also what's in Stop Parasite, obviously they shouldn't divulge this commercial info, but MAF should know and if a product makes any claims as an animal remedy or med of any variety then NZFSA (ACVM Group) should also know.....

The newest book in my collection is Gerald Bassleer's "the new illistrated guide to fish diseases", having met this man personally and also from his extremely good credentials, as a biologist specialising in ichthyopathology & 25 years experience as a reasercher in the feild of fish medication and fish food development, I would be confident to say that his excellent knowledge and experience which are reflected in his book are based on actual research & experince, rather that something he learned off hobbiests on the net. I think the same would also be true of most published authors in the feild of ichthology. Much is written on the net, much is conflicing, only a very fooldhardy individaul would risk their reputation publishing something learned secondhand through such a variable source. In regards to fat content in food. It's not that hard for scientists to test for, I'm sure someone will have taken the time with whiteworms. It is always best to feed your fish food which most closly resembles that which they would naturally eat in the wild. Just because I can eat something & sometimes even enjoy it does not mean it is good for me physically or nutritionally benefical to me, eg McDonalds. Mbuna do recieve small amounts of protein in their natural diet from small crustatea that are found amongst the algae that is their natural diet, however they are herbivores and their digetive tract is set up to process food as such. Baby Afican cichlids can be fed powdered fry food/ BBS/ Liquid Fry foods, but usually take spirulina based food quite early, I have had good sucess with Micron, Cyclops powder & easiliy dissolving spirulina tabs. I'm too lazy to hatch BBS and have never found it necessary with Mbuna. This is just my opinion, & I don't expect anyone to write a book based on this.

4 Stage RO-Man RO/DI Filters available from: Wonderworld Aquarium & Pet Centre, Rotorua Northland Aquarium & Pets, Whangarei Tropical Blues Ltd, Tirau Contact Stores directly for further details.

Have your water tested, plenty of water quality issues can cause long term problems, usually resulting in lowered immunity which increases the prevelance of opportunistic disease or general malaise. Poor water quality can often result in newly introduced fish doing poorly whilst fish that have grown accustomed to poor water may "appear" fine, but will have a much decreased life expectancy.

sera toxivec sera toxivec contains the innovative QuickClean Formula and immediately removes dangerous ammonium and nitrite. Therefore it prevents the conversion into nitrate and immediately supports prevention of annoying algae growth. Try it for yourself by putting a dose of toxivec into a test sample of water known to contain ammonium or nitrite and or nitrate, re test and see a 0mg/l result. Sera Toxivec can be used up to five times at recommended dosage before it is recommented to do a water change. Especially good for large Cichlid aquarium fish like Oscars. Mark

Let me try to help, The Sera test kits are very accurate and in the case of NO3 has the ablity to test up to 400mg/l. Fill the test vial up to the 20ml mark with sample(Aquarium) water, add reagents and compare colour after 5 minutes. If the colour is dark red, the sample contains more than 40mg/l. Retest with 10ml of sample water and 10ml of distilled water and add reagents. If the test value can now be read, you then add the the value from the last reading on the line before, eg I now have a value of 20mg/l +40mg/l from the last line equaling 60mg/l nitrate in the aquarium. If the colour is still red the value is 80mg/l or more, in this case you can dilute 5ml/sample+15ml/Distilled & if necessary also 2ml+18ml. Water MUST be distilled water, rather than boiled tap water, which is never pure. This may sound difficult, but after you've done it once it's really easy. Best Wishes, Mark

I think you may be confused, I visited the Sera warehouse in Germany this week and no mention was made of an expansion on the range, at present there are 3 available; the 900, 1100 & 1300, none have "Twin Systems" however all are very efficient & good value for money.

NO Sera Fertilisers contain Nitrates or Phosphate.

This plant may be Anubias barteri v. barteri This would also explain its slow growth rate, as anubias are very slow growing plants. Anubias barteri v. nana is commonly seen & v. barteri is available quite regularly now. Try www.tropica.dk for more info. http://www.aquahobby.com/garden/e_barteri.php Also has a good pic. Borneo sword is Spathiphyllum Sp. The Peace Lily, more suited to bathrooms than aquariums.

It may not be the case with your fish, but often when newly introduced fish do badly and origional fish are fine, it can be a case of high Nitrates. The existing fish may become accustomed to poor conditions over time, whilst the new fish- regardless of allowing a normal acclimatisation period, will suffer. This may not be the problem in this case, but if you experience problems repeatedly with introducing new fish it may be something to look into. Nitrate test kits are inexpensive, and a handy resource which can help to identify the underlying cause for all sorts of common problems.

Hi, Mark & I are both coming to the Expo & look forward to seeing everyone there...

Hi, I would recommend worming the Clown Loaches, particularly as you have noted that one is skinny. Try Curex, available from most Fish Shops.