Totara Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Hi all, I just picked up a 200L aquarium, with 2 Fluval Canister filters, a airpump, and a few ornaments all for $180! I have only kept freshwater, and was going to set this up as freshwater, until I visited Living Reef Supplies in Christchurch. Oh my god. I was immediately taken by the reef tank they had right when you went in the door and was desperate to replicate it . So here I go. I am going to sell off all the things that came with the tank and I don't need to kick start the funds I need for it. Being a student my budget isn't huge. I built a canopy today and will put pics up of it later. I am hoping to fit the lights in my hood. I am pretty handy with electronics so I would like to try building my own LED lights. It will be a full reef tank so I am taking any and all advice about making the light. From what I understand I need, a protein skimmer (I want to get a HOB one), lighting (Already explained), a heater, and some powerheads (No idea about these, help needed!). So if anyone has some good resources to share about my first reef tank I am open to help Regards, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si_sphinx Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Get a WP40 wave maker. They work well for the low price. Stay away from the cheap sunsun wave makers. They are really noisy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnadian Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Agree with Jebao WP-40, good for a budget build. Vortech or Tunze obviously better, but much much more expensive. Grab one from fish-street.com You'll definitely need a sump, so keep that in mind. Plenty of info around about those. Bubble magus make the best bang for buck skimmers. LEDs, rapid LED make a good kit, try the 75g one on http://www.rapidled.com/by-tank-size/. Try to get it without a heatsink, makes the cost ridiculous. You can get heatsinks for much cheaper (once you factor in shipping) from NZ. Alternatively use those kits as a base line and buy individual components off of ebay yourself. If you don't want to go DIY, try two of these 120W units from ebay. If 2 is a bit dim for a 200L, you can always get a third. These are pretty good units for the price but of course no where near as bright as the $1000+ units. Heater, stick with Jager. Also, imo, put it on an external digital thermostat. Get a 100W and 200W, so you have some backup incase one fails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godly3vil Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Why would he definitely need a sump? Lots of great reefs around that run without a sump, don't get me wrong I think a sump is a great way to run any tank but it's not exactly needed if you don't mind having equipment in the display tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reptilez Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Why would he definitely need a sump? Lots of great reefs around that run without a sump, don't get me wrong I think a sump is a great way to run any tank but it's not exactly needed if you don't mind having equipment in the display tank. +1, You could always use a metal halide as they end up being cheaper then buying 3 LED units. :bggrn: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnadian Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 Until you need to replace the bulbs... I think a sump is necessary for a new marine keeper. Of course you can get away with it, but the extra water volume alone will significantly help any spikes for a new marine keeper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camtang Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 And pay the power bill.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted May 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 Hi all, I was planning on going no-sump. Some of those Fluval HOB Protein Skimmers aren't too bad. And one of the reasons I want to go LED is that they would fit perfectly in my canopy. I also have a question, on marine tanks, is it critical that the lights are in the center above the tank? Could They be further to the back? Regards, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reuben.a Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 Sounds like you have done a bit if research already which is great, a sump is good however they are definitely not needed. Diy led would be fun, im pretty keen on that myself. Pumps, get a wp25, have great reviews, quite powerful, excellent wave action when you set it to that. Comes with controller and stuff so pretty easy to use. A much cheaper alternative to the vortecs and people claim them to be better due to the adjustable head and the fact that they sit completely in the tank and the sound of the motor is muffled by the water as opposed to the vortecs where the motor is on the outside of the glass and not exactly quiet. Depending how well the spread is on your light, you could put the unit towards the back but ideally above the main body of coral you have as its the coral that need the light, fish don't mind. If your coral is up against the back of the tank then obviously you won't have a problem with the unit being at the back. Good luck and patience is your friend with marine 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted May 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 Hi all, I designed my LED Fixture in SketchUp. You can see my canopy, wood with acrylic lids (Already built, will post a pic later when I have put on the hinges). The black is black acrylic with holes drilled in it. It is sort of two fixtures. The blue holes are for royal blue LED's, and the white for cree white LED's. I think I will use optics, but I am not sure exactly what type of optics. If anyone knows about this please advise me on which optics to use. I have four rows of 7 LED's. Do people think this is enough? The tank is 91 cm long, 45 cm wide and 45 cm high. As far as which LED's to use, I would like to use these for the Royal Blue ones. http://www.ebay.com/itm/3W-Ultra-Bright-Royal-Blue-455-460nm-LED-20mm-Star-Board-60lm-/321340779178?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad1672aaa&vxp=mtr I am pretty handy with a soldering iron so that is no issue for me. Tell me what you think! Regards, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted May 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Sorry for double post guys, but need some advice. What are the advantages/disadvantages for using a normal filter for mechanical filtration rather than using a protein skimmer, Regards, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Skimmer exports crap out of the system, canister keeps it in until you clean it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted May 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Oh ok thanks. I think I have decided on my Skimmer, a Hydor SlimSkim (The 65 Gallon one). It looks like pretty high quality and isn't ugly, which is important when it is internal. Regarding my light fixture, it will be a bit further back than the Sketchup model shows. Pic coming soon, Regards, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnadian Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 So if I understand correctly, you are drilling holes in the black perspex and then mounting the LEDs in the holes? What are you using as a heatsink? Also if you're going to DIY, at least use decent LEDs like Cree, and make sure you get new model ones and not old (the old ones aren't great). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted May 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Well the way I do it is I get the black acrylic, then I drill holes the size of the optics, the optics are mounted in the acrylic. Behind the acrylic is the two big heatsinks (One for each side). Which the LED's are glued to using thermal epoxy. The LED's line up to the optics and click on. On the top of the canopy are two fans (again one for each side) which provide air too the heatsinks. I am pretty sure I have that part sorted, what I need to know is if I have the spectrums right, with the Royal Blue LED's and the Cree White ones. Also thanks kinnadian, I will make sure to get the good quality ones. Regards, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Well the way I do it is I get the black acrylic, then I drill holes the size of the optics, the optics are mounted in the acrylic. Behind the acrylic is the two big heatsinks (One for each side). Which the LED's are glued to using thermal epoxy. The LED's line up to the optics and click on. On the top of the canopy are two fans (again one for each side) which provide air too the heatsinks. I am pretty sure I have that part sorted, what I need to know is if I have the spectrums right, with the Royal Blue LED's and the Cree White ones. Also thanks kinnadian, I will make sure to get the good quality ones. Regards, Will While you're DIYing it, throw a handful of UV LEDs in there on a separate switch for showing off the tank at night... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnadian Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 For whites, most people are now using a mixture of cool white and neutral white (roughly 70/30 or 60/40). LED light hood manufacturers have found that the old cool white/royal blue combo only shows off green but not other colors. (Neutral white gives orange/red spectrum). With your blues, majority royal blue with a few violets I think gives a nice spectrum of color. People are experimenting with a few other colors, like reds or yellows, not sure if there is any real gains there though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted May 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Hi all, Here is my updated LED fixture It is a close up of one half of it. The light pinky color are UV LED's. The Khaki colored LED's are neutral white, and the pure white ones are cool white. The purple ones are Violet LED's and the blue ones are blue LED's. Also, has anyone here used a Hydor SlimSkim? I think I will use that one. Also, how much live rock / dead rock should I use in this tank? And where should I get it? Please tell me what you think, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si_sphinx Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 You should stagger the white and blue LEDs so you get a more even spread. Swap every 2nd white led with every 2nd blue led Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 Hi guys, Update on the tank. Just now I am selling off the filters that came with the tank on TradeMe (If your interested, theres a Fluval 204 and a Fluval 105, http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=737028738). I have decided to scrap the idea of a DIY LED unit and will probably just buy some lights now. The tank is 92 CM long so if anyone could recommend some I am most interested. I am going to use normal sand pit sand for a few reasons, 1. Cost, 2. I like the idea of the very fine sand. I will of course give it a good boiling and cleaning before use. With my Skimmer I am deciding between a Hydor SlimSkim or a AquaC Remora Maxi Jet 1200. If anyone has one for sale that would fit my tank, and is either internal or HOB please PM me. I am starting to look around for Coral Rock for my tank, I think I need about 25 KG and if anyone has any for sale I am very interested so please PM me or leave a post on here. I have heard that you can collect saltwater for a reef tank and was wondering if there was any good spots around Nelson for doing so? I think it would be a good way to get started as it takes out the mixing the salt part. I am thinking I will buy a RO/DI unit as I could get a good one that sends RO water to a reservoir for drinking, and some to the DI unit for the Aquarium. Does anyone know of a good unit that could do this? Regards, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnadian Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 Very fine sand will get picked up and turn your tank into a mini sandstorm in no time, unless you provide low tank turnover in which case your corals won't be too happy. Also brown sand is ugly, you definitely need white. Coarse rocks like Aragonite are recommended for this very reason. After personal experience I'd recommend going bare bottom until your live rock is semi established and you've gone through the diatom/green hair algae/cyano. The reason for this is that they will stain your sand and it will look ugly. What is your budget for lights? This entirely dictates what our recommendations will be. If you are willing to do a road trip, there is always coral rock in Christchurch from either redwood or living reef. A good collection place just needs to be clear of visible pollution or excessive foam, and needs a good method for collection, ie a 1000L IBC filled via a boat ramp. We bought this item which is both cheap and good (so far): http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-G-Aquarium-Reef-RO-DI-5stage-Reverse-Osmosis-Water-/180544571860?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123. Been running 2 months and no issues. We replaced the prefilters immediately with 1 micron filters because 5 micron is bad. If you want you can put a T junction between the RO and the DI with a valve, and valve off RO water when you want to produce drinking water, or close it to produce RODI water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted June 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 In terms of lighting I was thinking something like this. http://www.wonderworldpetcentre.co.nz/shop.php?action=moreinfo&itemid=9826 Would it be a suitable light? I know I would have to get the correct marine bulbs. I am looking for lights in that sort of price range so sub-$200. Also thanks for the tip about going no sand bed. I will definitely not have a sand bed to begin with. Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellymeat Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 In terms of lighting I was thinking something like this. http://www.wonderworldpetcentre.co.nz/shop.php?action=moreinfo&itemid=9826 Would it be a suitable light? I know I would have to get the correct marine bulbs. I am looking for lights in that sort of price range so sub-$200. Also thanks for the tip about going no sand bed. I will definitely not have a sand bed to begin with. Will If you are wanting to grow corals i wouldn't touch T8 fittings like that. You may be able to pick up some second have hagen glo t5 light fittings or ballasts. I have been using T5s for they last year and having great success. They are used a lot because they have a high output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnadian Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 If you want to light a 90cm tank (presumably at least 200L) for under $200, you are either going to have a fish only tank, have the most basic of soft corals, or have corals not remotely grow (or worse, die). I (and many others before me) have repeated this constantly. When it comes to Marine keeping, nothing is more important than quality of salt water, lighting and flow (in that order, in my opinion). Marine keeping is not a cheap hobby, and you have to enter the hobby with realistic expectations. I'm telling you now that you won't sufficiently light a 90cm tank with only $200. You are likely going to spend that much alone on T5 bulbs, not including the fittings or the regular replacement of the bulbs. Plus for T5 you will get fairly poor penetration, it won't look that good and will be quite dim. Realistically you need to look at metal halide or LED at that size. Some have success with T5, but even for $200 you are kidding yourself sorry. DIY you could potentially do it for $300 if you got a heatsink local and made up your own hanging kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted June 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 If you want to light a 90cm tank (presumably at least 200L) for under $200, you are either going to have a fish only tank, have the most basic of soft corals, or have corals not remotely grow (or worse, die). I (and many others before me) have repeated this constantly. When it comes to Marine keeping, nothing is more important than quality of salt water, lighting and flow (in that order, in my opinion). Marine keeping is not a cheap hobby, and you have to enter the hobby with realistic expectations. I'm telling you now that you won't sufficiently light a 90cm tank with only $200. You are likely going to spend that much alone on T5 bulbs, not including the fittings or the regular replacement of the bulbs. Plus for T5 you will get fairly poor penetration, it won't look that good and will be quite dim. Realistically you need to look at metal halide or LED at that size. Some have success with T5, but even for $200 you are kidding yourself sorry. DIY you could potentially do it for $300 if you got a heatsink local and made up your own hanging kit. Thanks for that, I didnt realize $200 is too low. I was under the impression that would get me a moderately good lighting system. What would you say I need to budget for my lighting system? Regards Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.