Project background

[Belgianbiscuit]

Hi,

I am attempting to build my own 3D background (polystyrene, foam, concrete). I have also created a tree trunk and I wanted to hide the heater and intake filter tube behind it (I am planning to buy canister filter). I was wondering if it is ok to have heater right next to intake and also how much space I would need around heater and intake?

The end of intake would be sitting near the bottom of the tree trunk and the water would be flowing in at the top of tree trunk (approx 35 cm).

Is this ok or should I make holes in my tree trunk closer to the intake?

Bit hard to explain so hopefully it make sense....

[livingart]

The end of intake would be sitting near the bottom of the tree trunk and the water would be flowing in at the top of tree trunk (approx 35 cm).

so you will be filtering the water inside the tree trunk?

will it be able to flow through rest of tank?

so long as heater isn't touching polystyrene it will be good

remember you will need flow over the heater

a pic would help

[Ira]

I was wondering if it is ok to have heater right next to intake

Yup.

and also how much space I would need around heater and intake?

An inch or so should be fine as long as there's some flow past it.

The end of intake would be sitting near the bottom of the tree trunk and the water would be flowing in at the top of tree trunk (approx 35 cm).

Is this ok or should I make holes in my tree trunk closer to the intake?

Nope, should be fine.

[Belgianbiscuit]

Hi all,

Thought I would share some pictures of the background that I am creating and pick your brains on a few matters.

I'd also like to thank Bell for sharing some of her experience.

As I work in IT I have access to a lot of polystyrene packaging.

However, these come in odd shapes so I had to find some sheets for the background.

If you are from the Manawatu, give Lanwoods a call. They have heaps.

I bought a $19 heat gun from bunnigs and also made use of some Sika foam to fill in gaps.

I used Cemix cement and Selleys silicone (aquarium safe).

Here is what it currently looks like. This is after one layer of cement.

Hoping to do the second layer tomorrow. Waiting for my oxide to arrive so I can add some color

I decided to attempt to make a tree trunk as well. I'd like to place the heater and/or the filter intake in there.

Not sure how this will affect the flow. This is currently the top view. I am thinking about removing part of the back sheet so that the space is bigger. This would give me a space of 8 x 6 cm and allow me to stick heater against glass.

[Belgianbiscuit]

Thanks guys,

Here is a top view of tree where I was thinking of putting heater and intake.

If I cut the back away I will have 8 x 6 cm space.

Not sure how good this would be in regards of flow?

If water level is higher than tree would this ensure a good flow?

I am thinking about putting outlet on side of tank. The heater and intake would be in the middle of tank.

I am thinking about leaving a gap between trunk and back sheet or would it be better to make some holes in tree?

I have started a thread documenting my background which may give you a better idea.

http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=58285

Cheers

[Sophia]

this is going to be great .... it's great now even :spop:

[Ira]

Thanks guys,

Here is a top view of tree where I was thinking of putting heater and intake.

If I cut the back away I will have 8 x 6 cm space.

Not sure how good this would be in regards of flow?

I'm not sure why you keep worrying about it. The intake on your filter will be something like 1.5cm diameter. Gives you an intake area on the filter of about 1.5 square centimeters. There's no way that a 48 square cm gap is going to even remotely be a restriction on the intake.

[supasi]

You need to have a good flow of water over the heater if you wish to mount it behind the background otherwise it will short cycle.

Also any areas behind need to have water movement to prevent it going stagnant. The hard part is also proving this but also preventing the fish from getting stuck behind it.

Best option would be to have a canister filter with an internal heater and the mount the inlets and outlets into the background in a way that they can easily be removed for maintenance etc.

otherwise, looking great so far.

[spoon]

having the heater by the filter inlet should be fine thats what i did( a 300w jager on a 500lish tank)

i make that hold bigger like you were saying the more room you have the better id also screnn off the opening to that gap for the heater so fish dont get stuck in there also make sure there are no gaps around the outside or bottom where fish can get in and get trapped because they will :dead%fish if ya do have any when u put it in silicone them up well

[Sophia]

Belgianbiscuit, you seem to be getting advice on this in a couple of threads, would you like us to combine everything in one??

[Belgianbiscuit]

Probably a good idea Sophia :-)

My apologies for cross posting

What would be the best way to avoid stagnation and provide optimal flow?

Maybe some holes in the tree (with a grate to stop fish)?

Or would have opening of tree under water level do?

Also thinking about placing air stone near heater as that should move heat around.

Have placed another layer, with oxide this time.

Will post another pic once all coloring done.

Definitely will use a sealer too. Just trying to determine what is best product.

Cheers

[Sophia]

Done

a bit messy but we get the idea I hope ...

[Belgianbiscuit]

Any thoughts on ADOS all purpose resin? It seem to be classed as food grade so I'd assume that is will be safe to use in aquarium?

http://www.crc.co.nz/Food-Grade-Adhesives--Sealants--Fillers-Epoxy-Resins/p1/All-Purpose-Resin-i77f025ef-a10c-43a5-9f4c-bdd5bc897419-6748.htm

[Sophia]

I haven't used that but have used other marine epoxy/resin/fibreglass preparations. You have to make sure it is properly cured so that all the solvent has disappeared.

[livingart]

so long as it is alright to use on polystyrene it will be all right

no matter how good your undercoatings are there will be small holes the resin will get through and eat away the poly underneath

[Belgianbiscuit]

Bought the ADOS resine. At $56 it was definitely pricey but

may be worth it in the long run.

Does not seem to affect the foam but did make the concrete

coloring bleed a bit which actually created a great effect.

I also mixed some resine with oxide to do some touch ups which worked

fine too. I guess just using resine with oxide and no cement would work too

but I'd expect you need two layers and that will be costly.

Cheers

[Belgianbiscuit]

I have a bit of a gap in between my tree trunk

and background that may be big enough for

a neon to get through. Unfortunatelly it

is in an awkward position that I can't get to with

caulkin gun.

I was thinking about using a thin piece of plastic but

that did not really work

My design turns out to be not overly practical :-)

[Belgianbiscuit]

Here a few pictures.

This is after the last layer of concrete

This is my tree trunk

This is what it looks like after the resin has been applied. Not the greatest of pictures and will try to get a better one

The resin gives it a bit of a honey glaze look and made oxide bleed a bit.

I just have to deal with a pesky gap I have and then I can slowly start the cycling process

[Caryl]

Great work there but, to be honest, the tree stump looks like a moa foot to me . More interesting than a log :thup:

[Belgianbiscuit]

Haha, you are not the first one to say that.

I am hoping the Moa look will vanish a bit when there is gravel or sand between the toes ;-)

[livingart]

nice work

[spoon]

to silicone the gap perhaps put silicone in a syringe ( no needle) , you could then attach airline to the syringe to direct it where you want it any excess can be cut away using a scalpel type knife

[Belgianbiscuit]

Thanks Spoon,

That thought had crossed my mind but never bothered trying it :-)

I may give it a go. I could of course put big fish in it that won't fit in gap ;-)

While we are on the subject, I think it will be very hard to stop some water to get in between glass and background.

Will this be much of an issue? I saw there was a bit of a gap in the silicone I put at the bottom of background.

I am hoping it allows for a bit of flow so it is not stagnant.

Really nothing I can do about that one unless I want to break background and start again.

And that is not going to happen!! cheers

[Belgianbiscuit]

So I have filled my tank up with water and will be refreshing it every day until I get the PH down.

Looks like it is anywhere between 8 and 8.5 after first day.

When I emptied tank I got rid of some background residue so am hopeful it is somewhat lower today.

I was wondering when I should attach my filter? Any point in doing it now?

Or shall I just wait until PH is more or less right and have added gravel etc?

Cheers

[Dachende]

What sort of filter are you using ?

If you can take media out, and just run the outlet through a pantyhose or micron sock type thing, it should pickup alot of the dirt you mentioned,

Couldn't hurt ?