clubbing80s Posted March 17, 2012 Report Share Posted March 17, 2012 Hi. I won a Trademe auction for a 120cm x 54cm x 46cm fish tank.The tank comes with - 2 Oscar fish - 2 very large Bristlenose fish - 1 Silver Dollar I need same advise on moving this collection with the least stress the the fish as possible. My plan this thus far to half fill 2 x 50Lt waist bins with water from the tank and put the fish in that, the bids have a lids, so they cant jump out. Next is to put the gravel into buckets with remaining water being ditched. The tank being transported in the back of my 4x4 on top of a blanket. all items fastened don't so they cant slide. At the other side the gravel will be returned to the tank , then the water and the fish returned to the tank , fit the heater , and slowly add water with with stress coat and stress zime. Not sure how else to do it . Any ideas ? Thanks Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hovmoller Posted March 17, 2012 Report Share Posted March 17, 2012 Your plan so far sounds excellent. Most important after keeping the fish alive is to keep whatever filter material alive (the bacteria) so you can connect it ASAP and have biological filtration from the get go. What kind of filter does it come with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted March 17, 2012 Report Share Posted March 17, 2012 More suggestions: If you're going to place the tank on polystyrene foam, you could also use that to transport the tank. If you're moving the tank on a hot day, have buckets of dechlorinated water outside in the sun ready so there's less to heat up using a heater or kettle. If you can get the tank back to the same temperature as the water in the bins, you won't have to acclimatize the fish to any temperature changes. If you've got lots of strong people to help, it's better to move the tank with the gravel inside with some water to keep it moist. That way you're less likely to damage the biological filter in the gravel. Move the plants in the containers with the fish. If the bins are translucent, cover the waste bins with blankets so that they are dark inside. When adding water back into the tank, use siphons so that you don't disturb the crud too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueether Posted March 17, 2012 Report Share Posted March 17, 2012 I would be tempted to wash the gravel as I hav seen moved gravel turn water very cloudy. If you wash it you will loose maybe 1/4? of the bacteria so you will need to keep a close eye on the ammonia for a few days and probably do about 20% water changes for the first few days. You should keep an eye on the ammonia after moving the tank anyway as there is bound to be at least a small spike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrienne Posted March 17, 2012 Report Share Posted March 17, 2012 I also would wash the gravel - it may have nasties in it which have been stirred up by the shift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishy-fish Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 How long is the journey for the fish? I did a similiar shift when I picked up my 6ft african tank plus stock and split 40 adult fish between 5 x 25L buckets. They spent around 4hrs in the buckets which were half filled with water to allow for oxygen, but I still ended up losing a few fish. In hind sight, I should have bagged the fish individually, but I just wasn't organised. Foolish really! If the trip is a decent one, you could bag the fish with large, thick bags that allow plenty of oxygen space. Your local LFS should have some they could sell you. Obviously if it's just across town then the bucket idea should be fine. Good luck! :thup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 I gather that if you can bag the fish, it's safer for them ... less sloshing around as in a bucket. I also have a battery (9V) powered air pump that I keep in case I need to transport fish some distance, or, if there's a power failure at home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clubbing80s Posted March 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 Hi All. thanks for the advice .. To put it polity the tank was in a foul state. I have removed most of the gravel for own as it more likely to be toxic. When I got it home the pump is not working , so the guy is coming over later to have a look. When I added to water I added stress coat and stres zime , I put some of the old water back , but it's shocking. The tank is very murky. I have air and the heater running :-) .. The fish are moving around , it what seems to be a normal manor. I'll do water change to morrow night. Thanks for all the advise hope to post pics of a healthy tank soon :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LYNDYLOO Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 I would replace a 1/3 a 1/3 and a 1/3 of the water each day with a good gravel vac of a 1/3 of the tank each day. Some people let their tanks get in a right state :an!gry poor fish :facepalm: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clubbing80s Posted March 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Thanks for all the assistance. After checking the levels I came to the conclusion that I'm loosing a battle trying to fix the current water, especially with my under-rated filter (Over tired with work etc, I wasn't thinking and in a rush to replace the boken pump I bought a one for a 100L and not 300L, will be replace shortly). And the fish looking really poorly. I bit the bullet and did a +/- 80% water change. To get the water temp rite and add the treatment I used a 50L bucket and mixed my initial water in it with a temp of 27degC and added Stress Coat , Stress zeime, And proper PH. I then used the pump to get the water in the tank will I topped up the header bucket . I also added the new heater (original with the tank has condensation inside it) and UV filter , and a bubble curtain. All the fish are now actively swimming around ,the pleco's fins are standing proud, and the Siver Dollar seems more settled . If you are interested I made 2 videos http://youtu.be/0xsu48l2H4I http://youtu.be/d02HX0DViFs Comments and advise are welcome. Thanks Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cricketman Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 I bought a one for a 100L and not 300L, will be replace shortly). Keep the water changes up till you do and you'll be fine. added Stress Coat , Stress zeime, And proper PH. Wouldn't bother with proper pH, you're going to be changing the water all the time till it cycled. That, and I don't like adding unnecessary chemicals to your water... it just a money spinner for LFS... there are better ways of adjusting your pH down the line that you can use, IF you even need it... I also added the new heater (original with the tank has condensation inside it) and UV filter , and a bubble curtain. Nice... Also, just so you know... It shouldn't be necessary to heat your water change water unless your doing a huge change (over 50%, and even then, I don't recommend these unless it a hospital tank). It rains in the wild, and a few °C for a little while, before your heater gets it all back to temp, won't kill your fish. Also makes the whole water change thing much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clubbing80s Posted March 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 Keep the water changes up till you do and you'll be fine. Wouldn't bother with proper pH, you're going to be changing the water all the time till it cycled. That, and I don't like adding unnecessary chemicals to your water... it just a money spinner for LFS... there are better ways of adjusting your pH down the line that you can use, IF you even need it... Nice... Also, just so you know... It shouldn't be necessary to heat your water change water unless your doing a huge change (over 50%, and even then, I don't recommend these unless it a hospital tank). It rains in the wild, and a few °C for a little while, before your heater gets it all back to temp, won't kill your fish. Also makes the whole water change thing much easier. Thanks for the feedback. The water from the tap is a lot colder that the can , so wanted to reduce the stress to the fish :-) .. A friend has advised me I should age the water to allow the chlorine dissipate. Is this a good thing to do ? Thanks Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueether Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 A friend has advised me I should age the water to allow the chlorine dissipate. Is this a good thing to do ? Thanks GregNo need if you are using Stress Coat. STRESS COAT, with the healing power of Aloe Vera, is scientifically proven to reduce fish stress and heal damaged tissue. It forms a synthetic slime coating and replaces the natural secretion of slime that is interrupted by handling, shipping, fish fighting, or other forms of stress. Helps reduce susceptibility to disease and infection. Helps heal torn fins and skin wounds. Reduces electrolyte loss. Also works instantly to remove chlorine, chloramines and ammonia from tap water. Neutralizes heavy metals. Use when starting a new aquarium, adding or changing water and adding fish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cricketman Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 No need if you are using Stress Coat. Or any de-chlorinator for that matter... Chlorine does NOT just dissipate, there is actually very little free chlorine in the water, it all turns to chlor-amine (which is the stuff that makes your eyes hurt in the swimming pool) this still needs to be removed, which is why we use de-chlorinators... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 A friend has advised me I should age the water to allow the chlorine dissipate. Is this a good thing to do ? Depends on who you ask, and where you live. Chlorine when added to water containing ammonia and dissolved organic compounds can form chloramine which is not removed by standing. But in Hamilton, the water purification system was updated in 2006 so all the water which is sourced from the Waikato River is treated with activated charcoal because of the issues with cyanobacteria. This would be expected to remove most of the dissolved organic compounds, and so lessen the likelihood of chloramines forming. Some water agers also have EDTA to complex heavy metals. But again in Hamilton, as the water is coming from the river which I presume is still hosting fish, then there should not be any toxic levels of heavy metals unless they are added somehow. E.G. copper pipes aren't used much these days for water from the town supply to your taps ( mine are still copper though ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cricketman Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 Depends on who you ask, and where you live. Chlorine when added to water containing ammonia and dissolved organic compounds can form chloramine which is not removed by standing. But in Hamilton, the water purification system was updated in 2006 so all the water which is sourced from the Waikato River is treated with activated charcoal because of the issues with cyanobacteria. This would be expected to remove most of the dissolved organic compounds, and so lessen the likelihood of chloramines forming. Some water agers also have EDTA to complex heavy metals. But again in Hamilton, as the water is coming from the river which I presume is still hosting fish, then there should not be any toxic levels of heavy metals unless they are added somehow. E.G. copper pipes aren't used much these days for water from the town supply to your taps ( mine are still copper though ). Still, standing water is not going to do F.Adams... http://hamilton.co.nz/page/pageid/2145826980/Water_Treatment Fourth bullet point... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 Still, standing water is not going to do F.Adams... http://hamilton.co.nz/page/pageid/2145826980/Water_Treatment Fourth bullet point... See http://hamilton.co.nz/page/pageid/2145840006 In 2006 an extensive upgrade to the water treatment station was commissioned which included a granular activated carbon (GAC) filtration process step. This process is specifically aimed at the significant removal of taste and odour and other organic compounds originating from the river (algae and/or cyanobacteria). Like the rest of the treatment process, the CAG process operates continuously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amtiskaw Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 I didn't realise all Hamilton's water went through carbon. Wonder how much they go through in a month? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 Probably a lot more than you can buy at the LFS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cricketman Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 See http://hamilton.co.nz/page/pageid/2145840006 To me, the way this is put, says that this step is pre-chlorination, so again, whilst they may be reducing the amount of chlorine they use, there has to be a certain amount of free chlorine in the water when it leaves the disinfection stage... from exactly the same page... Hamilton must adhere to the New Zealand Drinking Water Standards when dosing chlorine. To ensure disinfection of the water throughout the water pipes until it reaches customers, a small amount of chlorine (residual) is allowed to stay in the water, small amounts of chlorine WILL NOT cause harm. Chlorine dissipates with time. The longer it takes for the water to get to the tap the less chlorine that will be present. This can mean people living close to the plant experience slightly higher levels of chlorine than those living at the edge of the city. As Hamilton grows the amount of chlorine dosed at the WTS needs to increase slightly so as to ensure disinfection occurs at the edges of the distribution. When strong tastes are experienced improve taste by: Expose water in a clear uncovered jug to sunlight for one hour. Place an air tight container (preferably made of glass or polycarbonate) of water in the fridge before drinking – cool water always tastes better, but throw away any unused water after 24 hours. Adding a few drops of lemon juice to the water before drinking. If using a filter to remove chlorine or other tastes it is essential that all manufacturer instructions be carefully followed. note that they talk about standing to remove taste of chlorine, whereas we have to remove the chlorine/chloramine for our fish... And if the water is in a sealed system, the only place that FAC has to go, is to be complexed and solute into the water, in the form of chlorine dioxide, or chloramines (if there is available N) from http://www.moh.govt.nz/notebook/nbbooks.nsf/0/237C397A37EFADA9CC25750600720E08/$file/drinking-water-standards-2008.pdf Chlorinated water supply A term used for water in the distribution system. Water supplies that are chlorinated but have not been demonstrated consistently to have a free available chlorine (FAC) or chlorine dioxide concentration of at least 0.2 mg/L. Continuously monitored chlorination - A term used for water leaving the treatment plant. Requires the use of an online continuous FAC monitor, standardised at least as frequently as recommended by the equipment suppliers, with an alarm system (FAC monitor or dosage monitor) that can prompt a site visit, without delay, to service the fault or condition. The free available chlorine equivalent (FACE) must be at least 0.2 mg/L. Non-continuously monitored chlorination - A term used for water leaving the treatment plant. Chlorination in which the FACE is always at least 0.2 mg/L but that does not satisfy all the criteria for continuously monitored chlorination. chloramination - A disinfection process that produces (mainly) monochloramine by reacting chlorine with ammonia. See chloramines. chloramines - Compounds that may form through the reaction of free available chlorine (FAC) with nitrogen compounds. Chloramines formed from the reaction of FAC with ammonia are monochloramine, dichloramine or trichloramine. So you can assume 2mg/L as a MINIMUM free available chlorine that should be reaching your house, or more, the closer you are to the water treatment plant, or a continuously monitored distribution center, and depending on the cleanliness of lines in the area... Also depends on how much nitrogen is in the water to begin with (I realise that the carbon in Hamilton is going to help here...), and the lines in the area (how dirty they are or however) as to how many chloramines are in the water once it gets out your kitchen tap... or once you add it to your tank for that matter... but there is always going to be chlorine and chloramines formed AFTER the water has left the plant... In fact, I'm sure i remember something about chloramines being used to treat water in places (outside NZ, I have a feeling it was USA???) where chlorine gas can't be used? - I may be mistaken here, but I'm sure someone will set me straight... Anywho, thats my contribution, do with is as you will... :thup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 Yes, chloramines are used in some USA states because it does not outgas. If you want to know if it's safe for you just to stand water for a day or so, do this and then test the water for total chlorine ( includes chloramines ) with a test kit. Pool and possibly spa pool owners use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clubbing80s Posted March 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 Thanks for the feed back. Very informative information. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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