henward Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 Dats! my xb tank will have dats:D sorry tangent there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ally07 Posted June 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 Dats! my xb tank will have dats:D sorry tangent there! lol, that sounds cool. Massive aro = massive tank mates. :thup: ...Wait, what happened to the albino themed aro tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 ill have that too but will need a few middle fish. so fire eel and dats will fill the void. then carpet of albino sens, albino sailfin. just a couple of dats, maybe just 1 even, and a fire eel that im growing now:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishie123 Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 Lol, Are we the only one havingt a discussion about arowanas? Sorry haven't been with my tank recently. Been studying hardcore >,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ally07 Posted June 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 Lol, Are we the only one havingt a discussion about arowanas? Sorry haven't been with my tank recently. Been studying hardcore >,,,< C'mon, lol, where's your commitment? I have two exams on Tue and I'm still with my fish and the forums everyday haha. I call them "study breaks" but who am I kidding?? LoL.. :roll: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ally07 Posted June 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 Read this info on an arowana forum and thought it was very informative (based on science, not myths). Enjoy! Coloration is controlled by the endocrine and nervous system, but dietary sources of pigment also play a role in determining color in fishes. The endocrine and nervous system both influence coloration in fish. The pituitary gland secretes hormones that direct the production and storage of pigments throughout the life of a fish, and particularly as maturity is reached. Pigment production and storage often increases at the onset of maturity. Many species use color to provide camouflage and attract a mate. The autonomic nervous system directs rapid color changes in response to stimuli such as a predator or an aggressive tankmate. Anyone who has observed fish knows this color change can occur at a spectacular rate. Specialized pigment containing cells called chromatophores are located beneath the scales. These cells are branched, permitting pigment granules to be near or away from the surface and aggregated or dispersed. These cells are the reason for the variable and sometimes rapid changes in fish color. Additionally, colorless purine crystals are contained in specialized chromatophores called iridophores. These crystals are too large to move in the iridophores but are stacked to provide a reflecting surface and the base or structural coloration of fishes. The iridophores are responsible for the silver sheen, particularly of small pelagic fish. These cells are capable reflectors of light and are responsible for the counter shading effect where fish appear darker when viewed from above and lighter when viewed from below. This mechanism helps detour predation. Pigments are characterized by their colors. Carotenoid pigments are red and orange. Xanthophylls are yellow. Melanin pigments are black and brown. Phycocyanin is the blue pigment derived from blue-green algae. Cells containing yellow pigments overlying those containing blue pigments can produce green hues. Fish are capable of producing some pigments, but others must be supplied in the diet. Black and brown pigments are produced in cells called melanocytes. Fish are incapable of producing carotenoid and xanthophyll pigments. Therefore, these must be supplied in the diet. Spirulina algae is a source of pigments to enhance blues. Natural sources of pigments are available in the diets of most fish. Color enhancing diets may contain additional natural pigments to enhance colors of ornamental fishes. The carotenoid pigment found in most marine and a few freshwater invertebrates is astaxanthin. This pigment gives the characteristic color to the flesh of salmon and is available in the diet of aquarium fish in shrimp and krill meals and salmon (fish) meal used as sources of protein in some feeds. Pure astaxanthin or canthaxanthin (synthetic astaxanthin) may also be added to fish feed to enhance red and orange coloration. Xanthophylls (yellow pigments) are found in corn gluten meal and dried egg that may be added to the diet to enhance yellows. The ground petals of marigold flowers have also been used as a source of xanthophylls. The blue-green algae spirulina is a rich source of phycocyanin and may be added to a diet to enhance blue coloration. The expense of supplementary pigments often limits the amount used in tropical fish feeds. These natural sources of pigments are in contrast to several methods routinely used to enhance colors of ornamental fish. Genetics Let's just take the colour red as an example. Colour is produced in a similar way to photographs in newspaper where from a distance, a photograph will look detailed, well defined, and clear. Yet under closer examination, particularly through a magnifying glass, the picture consists of thousands of tiny dots of ink, each working together to produce a picture of dark and light areas. Skin pigmentation is caused by dots (colour cells called chromatophores) the intensity of which is determined by how densely the dots are packed and how intensely each dot is coloured. An aro's genetic code will determine both factors, with the role of colour enhancement through feeding only being able to improve the colour of each colour cell (rather than increase their density in the skin). However, there is always hope as that same genetic code will also code for colour development where pattern and the appearance of other chromatophores may develop in the future. Carotenoids are the massive group of colour enhancing compounds that are stored and exhibited in a fish. They are a group of chemicals that impart colour by the way they absorb and reflect light. Those that refract higher wavelengths of light (reds)are more desirable than those that refract the lower end of the spectrum (yellow). They are organic in nature, and are very closely related to Vitamin A, and similar in structure to vitamin E. Due to their similarity in chemical structure to these 2 vitamins, they behave in a similar way in living tissue, being very reactive and unstable, easily degraded in oxygen heat and light. As carotenoids do degenerate over time, in the same way that a leaking bucket needs to be topped up to keep it full, koi require a constant supply of carotenoids to keep the chromatophores packed with carotenoids. Many different organisms (including shrimp, krill and koi) have the ability to convert certain pigments into others. Shrimp and krill are marine crustacea, and are renowned for their red pigmentation caused by the carotenoid astaxanthin. However, these filter feeding organisms feed on marine algae that is suspended in the water (and definitely not pink!), converting a range of pigments (carotene, lutein, and zeaxanthin) into the red pigment astaxanthin. Natural sources: There are several recognised natural sources of carotenoids suitable for colour enhancement. Like any natural commodity, qualities and pigment content can vary from source to source, and being organic, can be liable to degradation during food manufacture. However, natural sources are also renowned for offering a superb range of carotenoids. For example, marigold petals have more than 20 different carotenoids. They also have a high concentration of these compounds (approximately 9000mg per kilo), whereas shrimp or krill meal will only have about 200mg per kilo, with the added issue of the exoskeletal material have an exceedingly high ash content. Good natural sources of red pigmentation include shrimp, prawn and krill, with similar red pigments found in high quantities in red peppers (paprika). reference 1: Jason Selong reference 2: Pond Doctor Answers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishie123 Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 C'mon, lol, where's your commitment? I have two exams on Tue and I'm still with my fish and the forums everyday haha. I call them "study breaks" but who am I kidding?? LoL.. I got 2 assignment due in tomorrow night plus an exam. Plus I've got 1 exam on tuesday. :tears: Okay guys. I think its time for me to bury myself for an SAC :digH: My girlfriend been feeding my arowana. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-obstacle Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 Read this info on an arowana forum and thought it was very informative (based on science, not myths). Enjoy! Coloration is controlled by ........ That's a really good article. I wonder if this explains the orange in my apistos vs. the reds in others? Maybe I need to add some paprika to their diet. Which one will I experiment on? *rubs hands and laughs maniacally* :evil: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 nice read that, i believe its in arofanatics. awesome article Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ally07 Posted June 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 That's a really good article. I wonder if this explains the orange in my apistos vs. the reds in others? Maybe I need to add some paprika to their diet. Which one will I experiment on? *rubs hands and laughs maniacally* :evil: Now we know why Henward's recipe has paprika in it haha. Wonder how much paprika is actually needed to create an actual colour improvement? For all we know, it could theoretically work but practically it could be a different story.. :dunno: I don't make my own beefer, so doesn't really bother me haha, but I'll be using carrots as a source of moisture for my mealworms so they also get the added vitamin A. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 yeah i feed my mealworms freeze dried shirmp and fish pellets. i started noticing that the newly shed mealworms are pink and red!!! yeah, discus forum told me to put paprika - i believe paprika has a good amount of vitamin c weather or not the trace and minerals in the paprika can be utilised who knows. my aro doesnt eat the beefer though only clowns, so i guess its more for vits than anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ally07 Posted June 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 yeah i feed my mealworms freeze dried shirmp and fish pellets. i started noticing that the newly shed mealworms are pink and red!!! Aww man! Mine are still boring old brown haha. Maybe it's because they are eating more SW pupae than pellets lol. My mix consists of hikari floating sticks and cichlid gold with SW pupae. Breakfast of champions! :thup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ally07 Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Apparently this is a green arowana with a white base..?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 nice looks almost platinum! nami greens are pretty cool too. with some good lighting, your green should show some nice colours if you dont already have good lighting. people under rate greens as they are not as expensive, but i still think they are cool! would love a green and silver comm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myfishybuisness Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 nice looks almost platinum! nami greens are pretty cool too. with some good lighting, your green should show some nice colours if you dont already have good lighting. people under rate greens as they are not as expensive, but i still think they are cool! would love a green and silver comm! then get the aro community, do it, do it (little voice in your head) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snookie Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 whats the stuff flamingos eat ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ally07 Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 then get the aro community, do it, do it (little voice in your head) I've thought about it for about 10 minutes longer than I should have lol. Due to the cost, I was thinking of a jardini comm but they are too aggro - very few fish keepers in asia with huge tanks/ ponds will even bother attempting it. Many, many stories of non-stop battles and torn fins/ broken barbels, so that's another idea scrapped lol. I won't do a silver comm simply because I don't really like the shape and they get too big for a comm IMO. whats the stuff flamingos eat ? I believe they eat shrimps - thus the pinkish-red colouration. with some good lighting, your green should show some nice colours if you dont already have good lighting. Will probably invest in some good lighting some time next year - need to do some research on what kind to get though. Can't wait for his colour to deepen even more, but I'll sacrifice colour for bulk haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 with a green or most if not all aros, lights only show you the colour it already generally has. so if you going for bulk, then no worries, pump it! get some HGH, human growth hormones see what happens:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myfishybuisness Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 with a green or most if not all aros, lights only show you the colour it already generally has. so if you going for bulk, then no worries, pump it! get some HGH, human growth hormones see what happens:D that explains so much about your massive fish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ally07 Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 with a green or most if not all aros, lights only show you the colour it already generally has. so if you going for bulk, then no worries, pump it! get some HGH, human growth hormones see what happens:D lol! My fish might grow arms and legs haha! :love: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henward Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 haha my take on fish size and growht. is feed all t hey wanna eat. but water parameters is key. so extremely over filtered tank - and feed as much as it wants to eat. example, today the red ate 1x whole shrimp with shell in the morning. 1x in the arvo, and 2 locusts and a few mealworms, this is generally its daily routine of feeding. sometimes more so in terms of locusts. some will hesitate due to filtration. i prefer to rid of bottlenecks in the operation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ally07 Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 lol, I think I've got to slowly upgrade my BB to handle that kind of bioload in order to achieve such high growth rate. Recently added a total of 3 kg of cerami-sub into the sump, but I think I can fit another 1.5kg in lol! Question: my tower is filled with bio-balls and I noticed today during a wc that within the 15-20min that the pump was off, the some of the bio balls looked like they were starting to become dry.. Does this mean that the BB will die off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ally07 Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 An informative thread about arowana healing periods by Alvin Koh from AroFanatics.. Enjoy! Arowanas are by nature great leapers and often sustain injuries. Common injuries include: 1) Scraped skin (gill plates, head) 2) Dropped scales 3) Torn/broken finnages & tail 4) Broken barbels Healing times vary greatly according to age, seriousness of injury and also the health of the fish. Here are some of the complete recover times I noticed. Feel free to comment as these are observations and it may vary. 1) Scrapped skin - usually seen on the gill plates due to decorations within the tank like driftwood or powerheads. Very often a thin layer of skin is srapped off exposing a white undersurface. Healing time: aprx. 1 weeks - 1 month for various ages. (If the fish is of substaintial age and has coloration on it's gills, to retain it's coloration may take a lot longer, e.g. 2 months or more) 2) Dropped scales - caused by heavy impact knocks of its body against a surface, usually when the fish is in a state of panic. The fish may be reacting strongly to sudden changes of water parameters or surroundings and swims rapidly knocking on decorations or in more serious cases, it leaps out of the water surface and knocks itself on to the tank hood. This is usually accompanied by aftershock restlessness of the fish at the bottom of the tank. Healing times: Young fish (6-10 inches): aprx. 1.5 to 2 months. Mid-size (11-16 inches): aprx. 2-3 months. Mid to Adult (> 16 inches): aprx. 3-6 months. (These figures include regaining of coloration. For adult fishes, sometimes they never really get back the original density of color. In some cases, it may take more than a year) 3.1) Frayed finnages/tail - May be disease-induced (fin rot) or due to biting by tank mates. When the problem is tackled, the healing can be quite fast. Healing times: (If the fin rays are intact and only the thin membrane between the rays are torn. If the fin rays had eroded or are broken, refer to broken finnages below) Young fish: 3 days to 1 week Medium: 1 week-2 weeks Adult: 1 week to 3 weeks 3.2) Broken finnages/tail - Usually caused by more serious injuries like heavy knocks or bad fights. In extreme cases, the fish leaps out of the tank and lands on the floor and breaks its finnages while struggling. More common problem in asian golden varieties like crossback. Eroded fin rays may be caused by severe cases of fin rot. Healing times: Young fish: 0.5-2 months Mid-size fish: 1-3 months Adult fish: 1-6 months (depending on how much of the tail is broken/eroded off. the time range above represents the extremes, 10% to 90% of the tail lost) *For pectorial finnages (esp adults), if broken, the full recovery times are on the extreme end. Sometimes, they never grow back fully leaving one pectorial fin crooked and slightly shorter. 4) Broken barbels - Causes are quite similiar to both broken finnages and broken scales - caused by physical impact. It can be induced at the tip, mid or extreme cases, at the root/mouth tip. When it occurs at the root/mouth, it can sometimes lead to permanent loss of barbel(s). Healing times: Young fish: 1-3 months Mid-size fish: 1.5-2 months Adult fish: 2-3 months *Barbels may not grow perfectly straight and may cross over to the next barbel. It is recommended by some to make the tank significantly darker so that the arowana relies more heavily on it's barbels as sensors and thus possibly a straighter growth. i) Improving healing rates: The most important thing is preventing infection of the problem area or wound in bad cases. Although it is not very common for such to occur, keeping the water clean is important. High amounts of salt is not necessary. Use it moderately at the right dosages, e.g. 0.5%. I have heard this many times, but have yet to prove it. Some owners reported singnificantly improved healing speeds when the temperature of the water in the tank is increased (30 DegC). It may be due to an increased metabolism that the body of the fish repairs itself more quickly and also tends to eat more. - Alvin Koh Disclaimer: The above information is provided as a guideline and not medical instructions/truths. In doubt, always consult your local veterinarian for a proper diagnosis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishie123 Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 I've finally found time to take a picture of my Arowana. Actually I couldn't really take a decent picture because am using my Phone camera. So I decided to take a video of my black arowana. He's about 45cm lenght. My last video of my arowana was in feb. My Black is 5 months old now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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