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Brumation is similar to but not the same as hibernation. They slow up their metabolic rate and virtually have an extended sleep for a few months. Since they are reptiles and not warm blooded they rely on the temperature (usually from basking ) to digest their food. They normally brumate in winter when there is not much food about. If you feed them and the temperature is not high enough, the food will just rot in their gut. Since they are not feeding they do not need to produce vitamin D3 to assist with the absorption of calcium as they are not absorbing calcium because they are not eating.

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ok thanks for this advice

so this week ill take out one of there 60w bulbs so only one is running and ill turn off one of the uvb bulbs and next week ill just turn them all off hopefully that will force them to burmate should i just complety stop feeding them now then ???? thanks

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sorry to go off topic but while we are on the topic lol, my 3 year old bearded dragon is wanting to Brumate, she spends all of her time on the floor sleeping (at the hot end???). but i now she still has food in her somewhere, but its been over 4 weeks since she passed anything, i have not feed her for 3 weeks. the basking light and UV is still on.

this is my first winter with a bearded dragon. any thoughts

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sorry to go off topic but while we are on the topic lol, my 3 year old bearded dragon is wanting to Brumate, she spends all of her time on the floor sleeping (at the hot end???). but i now she still has food in her somewhere, but its been over 4 weeks since she passed anything, i have not feed her for 3 weeks. the basking light and UV is still on.

this is my first winter with a bearded dragon. any thoughts

Try giving here a bath not to hot though, should help clear her out.

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my 4 year olds not sure 2 year olds r outside

far as i know your 4 yr olds havent been outside ever. a bit tricky,as i heard of some adult old wdragons (ex ak zoo ) that have never been brumated (under heat all year round) . that died over winter when finaly brumated outside.... i think your on the right track for this winter BUT NO FOOD! next spring /summer get them outside so they can acclimatise to big temp variations n they will be good to brumate outside next winter. i got this years babies,yearlings n adults all brumating outside now,they have all been outside from day one....you will also double there lifespan.

example iv had a male wdragon outside from day one,will give 99 to 100% fertitlity...iv had a male wdragon,hand reared inside for the first 18 months,grown too fast too hot(not by me) was approx 600mm total length by then.then moved outside ,5 years on, still only approx 20% fertility, offspring just as healthy as the other,male wdragon just as healthy as the other, but fertility down.....once the fertility damage is done,its done....in saying that once outside, you will still get a longer lifespan n healthy animal . if you cant get them outside,less is more with heat. outside in summer they hide from the miday heat,and are the most active mid to late morning then late arvo. i start feeding mid october n stop feeding late march early april.weather dependent. :wink: i hope this info helps...

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so do i just stop feed completely leave one 60w heat lamp on for a week with 1 uv then just turn them off in a weeks time will that be ok???? thanks sneaky

sounds good,theres no hurry though,you could hold out till july,august. depends on the inside temp of the room there in.

maby replace the sand with soil so they have somthing do dig into n chuck in a piece of ply,plastic lid or whatever so they have somthin to dig under.the size sounds about right for 4 yearold male so proberbly not grown to fast.

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ok cool so u dont reckon to turn there heat off till july????

thats entirely up to you,the only upside of keeping them indoors is you get to control the weather,the down side is it proberbly wont be cold enough with all the lights n and heatin turned off inside yet.

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