Stephanie Posted January 23, 2011 Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 So the plan is to put back together a four foot tank now we've pulled it apart (cracked bottom). Now i'm always keen for a bit of DIY but not so much a disaster. The plan is to have 4 compartments for livebearer growouts. :happy2: I've checked old threads, people recommend all sorts of different brands, and now i'm simply confused. Has anyone made a reasonably big tank and what silicone would you recommend. I've been using the glass silicone from Bunnings for small tanks but it does say that it's not great for large tanks. I've decided it's easier to just ask again because i'm driving myself mad. Sorry! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zayne Posted January 23, 2011 Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 selleys stuff is good says on tube safe for aquariums Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterlogged Posted January 23, 2011 Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 i have used it to completely redo my 6oL i used to keep my fighters and babies in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bishop Posted January 23, 2011 Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 Yeah the Sellys stuff is good, I used on my 200L and she is still holding fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diver21 Posted January 23, 2011 Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 having a 4 foot tank divided into 4 sections is much the same as having 4 1foot tanks butted up end to end, it will be so braced that it would be fine with the silicone you have now. its probally more of a disclamer so they dont get into trouble for people making huge tanks and not doing perfect seals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allister_B Posted January 23, 2011 Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 idea was to have the dividers not actually bracing the tank though, and having perspex or similar in there aswell, but like you say probably just a disclaimer. its all about how you apply it to the tank, too much looks bad but will be strong and too little is going to end in disaster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diver21 Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 too much looks bad but will be strong and too little is going to end in disaster. im sure thats wrong as its the join between the glass surfaces that hold the strength. it will all be about forcing the silicone into the join and making sure that the join is free from contamination and throughly cleaned before applying the silicone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 Yep a big internal bead doesn't really achieve much in terms of strength, in actual fact silicone is a sealant not a glue, cleaning is a biggie otherwise it all just peels off and doesn't stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allister_B Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 missed my point. too much looks bad and too little does not seal properly hence the disaster. you are correct in saying "its the join between the glass surfaces that hold the strength" a perfect amount to stick glass together then a tiny extra bead for a proper seal. i have made a few breeding tanks and all held up great but as they were the first ones i made i added way to much silicon on the inside and being a small tank it look ugly ha ha, larger tanks would not look so bad i guess. has anyone cut 12ml glass themselves?? i have only cut 3mm to 6mm pieces of glass all without any problems, but as the glass gets thicker it gets harder to snap and i can imagine 12mm glass will not be easy, easier to take to pros?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bishop Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 You just have to get the cut right I guess. The same pressure for the whole cut. Also pour some turpentine into a bottle cap and dip the cutter into that before each cut. I was really lucky with my glass, I went to some pros for advice and ended up spending a few hours down there getting tips and cutting glass for them. 12 ml is expensive glass, safest bet would be the pros I reckon. they will also grind the edges too which is a bonus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-obstacle Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 You need a heavier cutting tool for 10mm+. I had this conversation with a glass dude recently. (why can't I remember his name?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshlikesfish Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 You need a heavier cutting tool for 10mm+. I had this conversation with a glass dude recently. (why can't I remember his name?) Was it on the forums? Could be Barrie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 You need a heavier cutting tool for 10mm+. I had this conversation with a glass dude recently. (why can't I remember his name?) All the glassiers I have met have said you don't need any special tools to do thicker glass if anything just an older one so it isn't as sharp, I know when Barrie cut 10mm for me he made it look easy, far easier than I can cut 3mm anyway lol But I guess you get good at it when you do it all day If I want it done right then I go and ask for help.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephanie Posted January 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 I think that might be the way to go. Maybe once we move so we can take glass instead of a whole tank! The wait might kill me though. I'm too excited for our possible guppy/molly/swordtail/platy tank! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 I know when Barrie cut 10mm for me he made it look easy, far easier than I can cut 3mm anyway lol That's because he does have special tools. He has one known as a "Clue" Very difficult and time consuming tool to locate, if anyone knows where I can buy one for cheap please let me know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-obstacle Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 Was it on the forums? Could be Barrie Yeah! that's the one. He ordered in my replacement 10mm base for me and had it pre-cut because he didn't have a tool for it at the time. He told me about how other glaziers used to throw away his 10mm+ tools because they were too heavy (blunt/dull) and they assumed they were stuffed. I must give him a call actually - I'll need some lids soon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Use fine sewing machine oil on the cutter wheel. I have built a 4 foot tank into 6 compartments from 10mm which is overkill because the divisions give a lot of support. It is not hard if you think about what you are doing. Draw the locating lines on the outside of the bottom and back and place a fine bead of glue on the inside of each line and away you go. Forget all this stuff about how much glue you need. You only need a thin bead to glue glass to glass and another very thin bead to form the finishing bead on each compartment. Too much glue looks ugly and does nothing to improve the tank. A thin layer of glue will also dry a lot quicker. Use Sellys acid cure that is labelled aquarium safe as it is safe and cheap. If making heaps of tanks and buying by the carton another brand might be better but one cartridge of Sellys will be way more than you need. Leave the nozel as fine as you can, it is a bit harder to squeeze out but worth the effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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