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MDF Aquarium Stand


SamH

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If you cut the skirting and put it in there you parents would not be able to see anything because it would be hidden and then it would fit :)

I don't think that would fly too well with mother dearest :o:(

Just to put the cat amongst the pigeons... would it be more stable with a solid bottom?

Yes, it would be but it doesn't need to be anymore stable. Plus I need to roll my chair under a little bit too :)

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I would use rebate joints for the shelves, this would give added strength and also you don't have to worry about mdf splitting either.

I have a 3ft tank on a mdf table with only screws holding it together, but I have rebated all the joints.

stand.jpg

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there is no issue with using MDF tables to support larger tanks as long as they are constructed properly allowing the weight to be transferred from panel to panel down to the floor. if you put them together in a way that it relies on screws supporting the weight then you will have an issue. screws should only be used to hold the panels together rather than supporting anything. any unsealed MDF will go fluffy over time whether water is spilt or not, particularly on the edges.

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In my drawing all the weight is on the uprights, screws are only there to keep it together.

to spread the weight I suggest placing another mdf board at the bottom, that way you won't have big indentations in the carpet when you decide to move it in a few years. :wink:

as everyone has said, make sure you seal or paint it, or it will puff up

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That's a great idea Wok, but I don't have many tools :(

as everyone has said, make sure you seal or paint it, or it will puff up

:D Thankfully Mum hates unpainted stuff 8)

Good idea, but using a router may be a little out of his depth?

:oops: Yeah, we don't have one.

screws should only be used to hold the panels together rather than supporting anything.

I'm designing it like a fish tank. 60x30 base, panels inside that and a 60x30 surface on top. This way the weight will be put on the MDF as opposed to the screws 8)

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to spread the weight I suggest placing another mdf board at the bottom, that way you won't have big indentations in the carpet when you decide to move it in a few years. :wink:

i just use an iron and steam to take the indentations out - make sure you have a tea towel under the iron so you dont kill the carpet - it works a treat

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I've done some rough 2d plan views of the stand without the top surface.

This one is just solid, six sides with no doors.

DeskOptSolid.jpg

This one has five sides and no front.

DeskOptOpen.jpg

This one has doors hung from the interior.

DeskOptInnerDoors.jpg

This one has doors added to the exterior.

DeskOptOutterDoors.jpg

There was one more similar to the 3rd picture, doors were mounted inside the base but outside the left and right panels, if that makes sense.

Which one would be best for looks and a sump?

Thanks!

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the 2nd to last plan has "inset" doors, the last has "overlay" doors. Personally i would go with overlay as i think it looks better front on & with inset doors any irregularities in the cabinet, it not being square will stick out like the proverbial. the only difference when it comes to fitting the doors is the way it's hinged, the hinge can be the same but using a thicker mount will inset the door or you can use inset hinges with a standard 0 or 1.2 mount depending on which hardware brand you use. if you get good brand hinges they will be adjustable in every direction which means in time you have more adjustment to make the doors line up if the cabinet moves a little.

i would reccomend a verticle support in the front to stop the top sagging onto the top of the doors, ideally a full panel like the ends.

oh & extend the end panels to cover the back panels, it will look alot tidier from end on. :)

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that last one would make it a similar design to mine but i also put "skirts" around the top and bottom to hide the panels above and below my doors - the top one also covers about 30 - 40 mm to hide the white poly under the tank - and as smidey says i have a vertical in the center to stop any sagging. - this peice is from the floor to the top of the stand. if you want i can make a quick sketch on my design to give you some basic ideas

stand.jpg

I've done some rough 2d plan views of the stand without the top surface.

This one is just solid, six sides with no doors.

This one has five sides and no front.

This one has doors hung from the interior.

This one has doors added to the exterior.

There was one more similar to the 3rd picture, doors were mounted inside the base but outside the left and right panels, if that makes sense.

Which one would be best for looks and a sump?

Thanks!

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I think I will go with the overlay doors. There will be a solid 600x600 panel at the back and a 292x600 on either side running up to the front. The top surface will be supported on all side except the front, is this okay?

Thanks

-Sam

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