Carlos & Siran Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 Nice, good on yah mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 nice unit sam , well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamH Posted February 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 Nice, good on yah mate nice unit sam , well done Thanks guys :oops: Still not 100% sure about it, would have liked it to fit perfectly but not having to cut anything was great, certainly the reason why this worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zev Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 Just to put the cat amongst the pigeons... would it be more stable with a solid bottom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie841 Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 If you cut the skirting and put it in there you parents would not be able to see anything because it would be hidden and then it would fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamH Posted February 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 If you cut the skirting and put it in there you parents would not be able to see anything because it would be hidden and then it would fit I don't think that would fly too well with mother dearest Just to put the cat amongst the pigeons... would it be more stable with a solid bottom? Yes, it would be but it doesn't need to be anymore stable. Plus I need to roll my chair under a little bit too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caryl Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 Is it few enough mm's enough to get away with planing the desk down at skirting level? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamH Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Is it few enough mm's enough to get away with planing the desk down at skirting level? That's a good idea, we don't have a plane(?)/planer(??) though. What else can we use to take off 1mm? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caryl Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 sandpaper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 or a sander Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamH Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Thanks, I'll try and find some. Must have a bit lying around somewhere :roll: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 If you do not have a sharp chisel handy, use a sharp knife and quietly carve a slice off it. MDF is nice and soft to work with like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brennos Posted February 27, 2010 Report Share Posted February 27, 2010 I have a plane you can borrow sam, I can drop it off to you today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamH Posted February 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2010 Thanks for the offer but it's all setup now, it works and it would be a huge hassle taking it all down. Thanks anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brennos Posted March 1, 2010 Report Share Posted March 1, 2010 If you decide to build another, or do take it down, let me know, i can drop you a plane at any time, i go past your place on the way to work sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wok Posted March 8, 2010 Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 I would use rebate joints for the shelves, this would give added strength and also you don't have to worry about mdf splitting either. I have a 3ft tank on a mdf table with only screws holding it together, but I have rebated all the joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos & Siran Posted March 8, 2010 Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 Good idea, but using a router may be a little out of his depth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted March 9, 2010 Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 there is no issue with using MDF tables to support larger tanks as long as they are constructed properly allowing the weight to be transferred from panel to panel down to the floor. if you put them together in a way that it relies on screws supporting the weight then you will have an issue. screws should only be used to hold the panels together rather than supporting anything. any unsealed MDF will go fluffy over time whether water is spilt or not, particularly on the edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wok Posted March 9, 2010 Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 In my drawing all the weight is on the uprights, screws are only there to keep it together. to spread the weight I suggest placing another mdf board at the bottom, that way you won't have big indentations in the carpet when you decide to move it in a few years. as everyone has said, make sure you seal or paint it, or it will puff up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamH Posted March 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 That's a great idea Wok, but I don't have many tools as everyone has said, make sure you seal or paint it, or it will puff up Thankfully Mum hates unpainted stuff 8) Good idea, but using a router may be a little out of his depth? :oops: Yeah, we don't have one. screws should only be used to hold the panels together rather than supporting anything. I'm designing it like a fish tank. 60x30 base, panels inside that and a 60x30 surface on top. This way the weight will be put on the MDF as opposed to the screws 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oO SKIPPY Oo Posted March 9, 2010 Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 to spread the weight I suggest placing another mdf board at the bottom, that way you won't have big indentations in the carpet when you decide to move it in a few years. i just use an iron and steam to take the indentations out - make sure you have a tea towel under the iron so you dont kill the carpet - it works a treat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamH Posted March 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 I've done some rough 2d plan views of the stand without the top surface. This one is just solid, six sides with no doors. This one has five sides and no front. This one has doors hung from the interior. This one has doors added to the exterior. There was one more similar to the 3rd picture, doors were mounted inside the base but outside the left and right panels, if that makes sense. Which one would be best for looks and a sump? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 the 2nd to last plan has "inset" doors, the last has "overlay" doors. Personally i would go with overlay as i think it looks better front on & with inset doors any irregularities in the cabinet, it not being square will stick out like the proverbial. the only difference when it comes to fitting the doors is the way it's hinged, the hinge can be the same but using a thicker mount will inset the door or you can use inset hinges with a standard 0 or 1.2 mount depending on which hardware brand you use. if you get good brand hinges they will be adjustable in every direction which means in time you have more adjustment to make the doors line up if the cabinet moves a little. i would reccomend a verticle support in the front to stop the top sagging onto the top of the doors, ideally a full panel like the ends. oh & extend the end panels to cover the back panels, it will look alot tidier from end on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oO SKIPPY Oo Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 that last one would make it a similar design to mine but i also put "skirts" around the top and bottom to hide the panels above and below my doors - the top one also covers about 30 - 40 mm to hide the white poly under the tank - and as smidey says i have a vertical in the center to stop any sagging. - this peice is from the floor to the top of the stand. if you want i can make a quick sketch on my design to give you some basic ideas I've done some rough 2d plan views of the stand without the top surface. This one is just solid, six sides with no doors. This one has five sides and no front. This one has doors hung from the interior. This one has doors added to the exterior. There was one more similar to the 3rd picture, doors were mounted inside the base but outside the left and right panels, if that makes sense. Which one would be best for looks and a sump? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamH Posted March 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 I think I will go with the overlay doors. There will be a solid 600x600 panel at the back and a 292x600 on either side running up to the front. The top surface will be supported on all side except the front, is this okay? Thanks -Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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