Hey I've just got a few questions about snake neck turtles, don't have one but I've always been fascinated by them. I think it's the fact that they live both in the water and out of it lol.

Is the scientific name for them Chelodina longicollis?

What size tank is suitable for an adult snake neck? And is the same tank suitable for young ones?

Are they social with other snake necks or do they prefer to be kept by themselves? How big would the tank have to be for two adult snake necks? (provided they can be kept more than one to a tank)

What sort of water depth is necessary? Does it matter if it's deep?

I read somewhere that snake necks like to bask in shallow water sometimes as opposed to out of the water, would it be beneficial to have a shallow platform with basking lamp?

What sort of plants can you grow in a snake neck turtle tank? What substrate is suitable?

What temperature water do they need?

What PH water do they prefer?

Any answers to these questions would be greatly appreciated, also additional advice. (I've read the care sheet thingy in this section on them as well as some other bits and bobs this morning).

**EDIT** My god there seems to be a fair amount of conflicting information on the internet! More so than with fish! One site says they should be kept in water at 16 degrees another says 26 degrees. One says they are easy to keep, another says very difficult. One says acidic ph helps prevent skin and shell problems another says alkaline... sounds like no one know what's going on... :-?

yes that is their scientific name...

keep them at about 24-26 degrees

adult tank would be 300 liters or bigger is better but you can keep babybs in the same size tank, they are very good swimmers and would love the xtra space.

they are not really social, you can keep one its own happily, because if you get a pair the male will start attacking the female when it comes into season...

water depth is usually 2x the length of their shell... this is in case they fall in backwards they can flip themselves back up...

for the basking ramp it could be a idea but also they need a spot where they can get completly out of the water to back.

no point of plants, they will just rip them all out... plastic ones they may eat...

PH can be kept at 7... tap water is fine...

i would recomend a BIG canister filter, they make huge messes when they eat...!!! weekly 50-75% water changes are a must to keep the water clean and fresh

make sure to feed them in the water because they cant digest food on land...

Never hand feed adults as they can bite HARD...

Make sure you have a good UV lamp...

They are wicked turtles!!!

Never hand feed adults as they can bite HARD...

:oops: theres goes a finger

they're amazingly accurate.....you just need to hope they aim for the meat not the fingers :lol:

probably wouldnt recommend to try this one at home though

Never hand feed adults as they can bite HARD...

How hard? We talking losing a finger tip hard or just painful?

Thanks for the info Charlie, if I ever get one I'd probably designate a 6 foot tank for it. Could you use floating plants? Would probably assist the nitrogen cycle between water changes I'd imagine? I also read that coral sand is a good substrate? And that they like brackish water so a bit of added salt?

:oops: theres goes a finger

they're amazingly accurate.....you just need to hope they aim for the meat not the fingers :lol:

probably wouldnt recommend to try this one at home though

Haha holy sh.. that is awesome!

i would stay away from substrate, not only can i occur impactation if eaten it also will make your tank harder to clean and will also cause a big mess...

go bare bottom, i would say no point to the plants for nitrogen cycle, because of your big weekly water changes it would do much...

thats risky but some cool photos...

ive been bitten by a bay read eared slider and it really really hurt id hate to think what one of those could do!!! break your finger mayby? defantly pierce the skin!

http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/easternlongneck.htm

This is one of the sites that recommends 16-20 degree water temperature. Might be worth a read.

Also found the mention of "digestable" substrate.

"Some digestable sands are available (normally consisting of some form of calcium), but the jury is still out as to whether or not the high cost of these substrates makes them worthwhile."

Taken from: http://www.reptilesdownunder.com/reptil ... substrate/

I imagine coral sand falls into this category?

try this for info compiled by kiwis for kiwi conditions

viewtopic.php?f=40&t=42501

id say no to the culcium sand there wasd a forum thing on here i posted about it. and it will change the water chemistry

try this for info compiled by kiwis for kiwi conditions

viewtopic.php?f=40&t=42501

I read that 8) beginning to wonder why I made this post haha, I guess it was the conflicting information I was reading on the snake-neck that prompted me to do so. :-?

id say no to the culcium sand there wasd a forum thing on here i posted about it. and it will change the water chemistry

According to this http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/easternlongneck.htm it would probably change the water chemistry favourably? As they prefer alkaline ph (according to that article anyway). Also being able to digest the sand, even partially, would reduce the chances of impaction I'd imagine?

kept snakenecks for longer than some of you peeps have been on the planet

water from the tap, older ones outside all year round, a good varied diet

inside ones 24 degree for winter, unheated in summer months

been bitten many times still got all the fingers and no chunks missing

in fact snakenecks are less inclined to bite than red ears

they are very easy going creatures... and very cheaky :)

big tank... clean water... big filter... good UV bulb and there will be no issues

kept snakenecks for longer than some of you peeps have been on the planet

I guess the real question I need to ask you then is: Are they still alive? :lol:

they are very easy going creatures... and very cheaky :)

big tank... clean water... big filter... good UV bulb and there will be no issues

Thanks for all the info Living Art and Charlie. Much appreciated.

have one of the original snakenecks and 3 redears that are over 40yrs ol

have one of the original snakenecks and 3 redears that are over 40yrs ol

Didn't expect anything less from you Living Art.

Thanks for the help.

when i left home my brother had them for years

then sold and bought back years later

kept snakenecks for longer than some of you peeps have been on the planet

water from the tap, older ones outside all year round, a good varied diet

inside ones 24 degree for winter, unheated in summer months

been bitten many times still got all the fingers and no chunks missing

in fact snakenecks are less inclined to bite than red ears

I second all that! Well except for the first line :lol:

When they bite its just like a strong fish bite...nothing like a RES

And how could you resist that cute wee face

awwwwwwww

And how could you resist that cute wee face

Man.... if only my place didn't have a wooden floor... the only spot that could take the weight of a big tank already has my 450L on it... damn! One day I will get myself an 8 footer for a snake neck.

a snakeneck bite doesn't hurt at all - not like redear - and I always hand feed or else the fish will get his food :-?

I find my turtle won't come out of the water to bask - i have a slate rock that slopes so half is right out and the other half in under the water and he will always bask on the part that is just under .. but you need to give them that option to come right out.

My turtle also loves walking around the house and it's good excersize, they are very inquizative and nosey

they sometimes walk a long way overland in the dry season looking for a new waterhole

Providing live plants can be very stimulating for the turtles, giving them something to do in a otherwise unstimulating environment. Substrates can be great for this reason to, gives them something tactile as well as increaseing foraging opportunities.

Snakenecks are really good at finding food hidden in gravel or under logs. This encourages them to use there sense of smell and increases the time spent foraging.