smidey Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 firstly, i would like to say that my new & old jager heaters are the best heaters i have ever had. they easily keep the tanks to what ever temp you select & the thermometers are always on or very near what the heater is set at. I have noticed that both heaters i recently purchased, a 150W & a 300W both have small amounts of moisture in them. not drips of water but more fogging if you get my drift. I don't think this is a good thing, i can only corrode the internals surely & lead to failure at some point wether that be in the next year or decade? what do you think & do you have a jager with the same thing? i also have an old 50W jager, i bought it second hand 4 years ago so can only guess its around 6 years old or more & it has no moisture in it what so ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 my old ones no moisture my nw ones have moisture i am now keeping tops out of the water Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 my old ones no moisture my nw ones have moisture i am now keeping tops out of the water this seems to be the trend, mine says on the heater itself "fully submersable". maybe eheim isn't as good as some say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 they have a larg fuse wire that runs from thermostat to base of heater if they fail this will melt and it will not overheat the tank i have had 3 fail lately, 1 was 12 yrs old Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 I developed a similar problem in 3 out of 4 of my Jagers that were about 4 years old. After one spontaneously failed (turned off) I didn't want to use them anymore so I replaced them all with the new Fluval M series and have been very happy with them...but time will tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spoon Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 ive seen a lot with condensation in them still working fine i have a jager 300w about 6 months old no condensation yet ive had condensation in an elite 1 out of the 5 ive owned/own Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zev Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 I have a 100w that has moisture in it, I keep the top out of the water, the 200w I cannot tell if it has moisture in it as it is in my marine tank and covered in gunk :-? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos & Siran Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 2 of our aqua ones have condensation, and both our Jagers don't Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 they have a larg fuse wire that runs from thermostat to base of heater if they fail this will melt and it will not overheat the tank i have had 3 fail lately, 1 was 12 yrs old awesome, this is the info that makes me not worry in the slightest any more. the last thing i want is a tank full of cooked tropheus. as for the heaters themselves, i am very pleased with how well they work & even if it only lasts 4 years i will be happy. the last ones i had were jebo & they lasted less than two & the jagers have a 3 year warranty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix44 Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 The old rena's were the best heaters I ever used. bought one from france about 12+ years ago. it died (inaccurately heats) 2 years ago. ive been using eheims for 2 years now, the old fluvals before that, and i was not thrilled with them. +1 for the eheims, as far as i am concerned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 when you say eheim you meaning the jagers a? i amagine soon they will loose the jager name all together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix44 Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 yeah. eheim = jager. they wont re-brand them. its a separate division within the same parent company. just like fluval = hagen = glo t5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 i have the ones that have both logos on them & say fully submersable, got them within the last 3 months or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morcs Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 Jagers used to have water lines on them for the US market until recently, as becuase they didnt have the correct certification, they could not state them as being 'fully submersible'. As far as im aware, they are, and always have been, fully submersible. I love my 2ft long heater. Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 Only jager I can think of that I had fail was due to condensation..Well, it hadn't quite failed... The condensation built up so much inside it that it was pooled in the bottom enough that it was reaching the heating wire which was then boiling the water. But that was something like a 10 year old heater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrie Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 at a guess, the condensation will be not caused by leakage but when made. I doupt that dried air would have been used. Keeping the tops out of the water may well be more harmfull as the heat difference in the submerged glass vs the not submerged in a cold winters day when you open the lid of the tank may cause thermal breakage I tried to contact the makers of Visi-Therm to see if I could import these but with no luck. These have an international reputation for being real good and I have not heard of any failures at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 they have a minimum water level marked part way up the plastic head so no glass is out of the water, the older models have a min & max water level which is the same height we have them in our tanks. interesting point on the manufacturing side, maybe thats what it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 Jagers used to have water lines on them for the US market until recently, as becuase they didnt have the correct certification, they could not state them as being 'fully submersible'. As far as im aware, they are, and always have been, fully submersible. I love my 2ft long heater. Lol the older ones have the min & max water lines, i have had my old one submersed for over 3 years without issue at all. that could be the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Floater Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 It's about 13 degrees in my house at the moment (damn Dunedin summer...) my 300 watt jager is set to 29 and the tank (450L) is at 28. Had a Juwel 300 watt which couldn't even bring the tank about 26 when set to 32. Had similar problem with a variety of other brands. My new jager is the first heater that has been able to hold it's own when when the room temperature is greater than 10 degrees cooler than what I want my tank at. **EDIT** Haven't noticed any condensation yet, but it's only a month old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 the 300Wer is for tanks 600 to 1000L so you certainly have enough grunt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 It's about 13 degrees in my house at the moment (damn Dunedin summer...) my 300 watt jager is set to 29 and the tank (450L) is at 28. Had a Juwel 300 watt which couldn't even bring the tank about 26 when set to 32. Had similar problem with a variety of other brands. My new jager is the first heater that has been able to hold it's own when when the room temperature is greater than 10 degrees cooler than what I want my tank at. **EDIT** Haven't noticed any condensation yet, but it's only a month old. Either your other 300 watt heaters weren't actually using 300 watts or your 300 watt jager is using more than 300 watts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Either your other 300 watt heaters weren't actually using 300 watts or your 300 watt jager is using more than 300 watts. the difference between the jager & other 300W heaters is the length of the coil, the jager is over 500mm long from tip to tip & the same with the 150w heater, the coil is maybe twice the length of other 150w heaters i have had. i don't know how wattage is rated at all but thats the difference i notice from the jager to other brands. its all about length Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 the difference between the jager & other 300W heaters is the length of the coil, the jager is over 500mm long from tip to tip & the same with the 150w heater, the coil is maybe twice the length of other 150w heaters i have had. i don't know how wattage is rated at all but thats the difference i notice from the jager to other brands. its all about length A longer coil doesn't make it produce more heat. If it's using 300 watts of electricity it can create no more than 300 watts of heat. Resistive heaters are usually 100% efficient. If you have 2 heaters are are both drawing exactly 300 watts of electricity. One with a 6" heating coil and another with a 12" heating coil they will both still add 300 watts of heat to the water. There will only be one difference between the two which is the surface area to dissipate heat. The 6" heating coil will just be hotter than the 12" heating coil, but there is no difference in efficiency. This may help with having a cooler heater to stop the risk of burning fish...But I've touched heaters that were on, even short 300 watt ones and the glass was cool to the touch. Water is very good at transferring heat. Also a longer heater may end up with a lower internal temperature that limits the thermostat from falsely detecting that it has reached the desired temperature and turning off. In which case you don't really have a 300 watt heater, you have a 150 watt(Or whatever the duty cycle works out to) heater with a 300 watt peak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 i don't really know why but the reality is the 300W jager is the best 300W heater i have seen, it takes half the time of 2 150W heaters i had to bring the tank up to temp after a large water change & leaves the temp constantly on or near the temp required. its a miracle a? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Floater Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Also a longer heater may end up with a lower internal temperature that limits the thermostat from falsely detecting that it has reached the desired temperature and turning off. In which case you don't really have a 300 watt heater, you have a 150 watt(Or whatever the duty cycle works out to) heater with a 300 watt peak. I think this is most likely the culprit for my other 300watt heaters failing to maintain constant tank temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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