Turtle care sheets

[DonnaM]

Ok, heres some info on turtles. Some of it is from Livingart and the rest is from a brochure I put out at the pet expo in CHCH so could only contain a small amount of info. Also had photos on it which were very specific to the written content. The description of where turtles come from was adapted from some info I received from Mark Feldman and it is readily available on the herp site in a paper he wrote for that.

Feel free to add, subtract and comment

[DonnaM]

Common species found in N.Z.

 

RED EARED TERRAPIN.

Chrysemys scripta elegans

 

HABITAT: From North America’s Northern states to Mexico. Usually in slow moving streams, ponds and lakes

 

DESCRIPTION: Females up to 30cm long, males smaller. Male with longer tail and long front toe nails. Females can lay up to 15 eggs per clutch approx. every 3 weeks during the breeding season, but N.Z. is too cold for the eggs to naturally hatch.

 

In America they sunbathe on the sides of ponds, as soon as danger nears they slide into the water. Hence their American name of sliders.

 

Diet: Feeder fish, (NB/ Goldfish are considered to be too high in fat for turtles), frozen Hot House turtle food, earthworms , water snails, crickets, aquatic plants such as duckweed, 02 weed, watercress, azolla etc,  dry fish (all products by JBL are excellent foods), and turtle pellets. 

 

 

REEVES TURTLE

Chinemys reevesi

 

DISTRIBUTION: From southern China, Korea and southern Japan. The Reeves' is a small semi-terrestrial turtle, usually 4 - 5 inches long.

 

DESCRIPTION:

The shell has three well defined keels on the carapace, which is usually brown. The tail is quite long, the body is usually grey with yellowish spots and the head has a pattern of stripes. Some Reeves entire body and soft parts might be completely brown or black.

 

DIET: Eats almost anything. Commercially prepared frozen 'hot house' turtle food, JBL products,  pellets, feeder fish, earthworms, snails and some aquatic plants as above

 

 

 

EASTERN LONG NECK or SNAKE NECK TURTLE.

Chelodina longicollis

 

RANGE: The eastern snake-necked turtle, occurs throughout south-eastern and eastern Australia. It is typically found in swamps, lakes, slow moving waterways, creeks and billabongs, sometimes migrating overland during the summer months often being found wandering on overcast days during this time.

 

DESCRIPTION: The long neck which gives it its name can measure over half the shell length which may reach up to 30cm in length with most averaging 20cm. Generally brown/black all over with yellowish markings on plastron.

 

Specimens will emit a strong smelling liquid (called musking), as a means of defence. This, however, ceases as they settle into captivity.

Check out the Aussie website AFT ( Australian Freshwater Turtles) for excellent care sheets on the Australian turtle species. 

BREEDING: Breeding takes place in spring or early summer. Clutch Size may be 8 to 24 eggs with an incubation time of 3 to 4 months.

 

DIET: in the Australian wild includes frogs, tadpoles, small fish, yabbies and crustaceans. In captivity they will feed on Commercially prepared frozen 'hot house' turtle food, small mice, insects and feeder fish. In general they are carnivorous and will readily eat feeder fish, bugs, crickets,daphnia, dragonflies, earwigs, grasshoppers, flies, moths, nymphs and larvae, slaters, water-snails, water boatmen, worms (start a worm farm...great free food) raw fish cut up to bite sized pieces. 

 

LIGHTING. As for RES. However snake necks tend to float at the surface of the water rather then climb out onto a basking ramp and so it's important to place the UVB light over the full length of the tank, not just the basking area. They also prefer a natural piece of wood to climb up and bask on rather than a glass ramp. You cant beat natural sunlight and they will thrive in an appropriately set up pond and happily bask on logs near the water.

 

 

RED EARED SLIDER TERRAPIN

 

The RES originates from America where it lives in deep, mud lined ponds with few rocks. A turtle’s shell is made up of bone covered with a thin layer of skin, which gives the shell its colour. The outer layer of skin is called a scute, is shed once or twice a year and not as tough as it looks. Scutes are easily scratched by minor trauma or prolonged immersion in warm water. Turtles slide off their basking area at high speed and the bigger the turtle, the harder it hits the water. In captivity they often land in shallow water, hitting a rock or tank bottom which can cause minute cracks in their scute. Water gets into these cracks, leading to infection which is not visible under the scute and gradually spreads throughout the turtle. Its not unusual for it to take several years for the turtle to slowly die from the infection. This Ulcerative Shell Disease is preventable with the correct environment. (Information adapted from Mark Feldman's care sheet on the NZ Herp web site.)

 

WATER TEMPERATURE

In the wild, the RES lives in deep water where, even in summer, it's always cool a foot or two below the surface. Turtles are cold blooded so regulate their temperature from their environment, moving between sunning area and the layers of warm and cool water. Warm water causes their scutes to swell and soften, like fingernails in a hot bath. When they bask in the sun, their scutes dry and firm back up. If their Water is too warm, they can't bask for long, because they’re already hot. So the scutes can't dry out, but continue to swell and soften leading to White Shell Disease. Warm water can also create a build-up of unshed scutes leading to deformity and irritation. A temperature of 26c is needed for a hatchling. After 1yr, slowly reduce temp (during summer only) to 22C. At approx 2 years of age, a healthy turtle won't need a heater in the summer but a temp around 22-24C is recommended over winter. Change temp slowly. If turtle stops eating or is too lethargic, it’s too cold, so increase the temperature. Prolonged temperature above 28C will lead to rapid, excessive growth and associated organ damage of the turtle. 

 

LIGHTING and BASKING

Turtles spend half their lives basking in the sun to absorb warmth and UV. The UVB helps the turtle produce Vitamin D which it needs to absorb calcium, develop strong shells and function normally. They need a reptile light AND a heat source such as a reptile heat-lamp in a ceramic clamp lamp 12 hrs daily. The heat source encourages them out of the water to dry their scutes. Use a timer for convenience. Position lights 26 cm to 30 cm away from the turtle and always over the basking area. Often turtles are kept in a warm tank with UV lights sitting on top of a glass lid. The glass filters out nearly all the UV rendering it a waste of time. Lights need to get the necessary UVB and UVA coming from it.  If you have a mesh lid over your tank the grid must be larger than 1½ cm to allow the UV through. Sunlight streaming through a window onto your tank is NOT enough, as the UV rays your turtle needs are blocked by the glass.

 

FILTERS

Large, external filters can seem expensive, but are the best system to keep your tank clean. Always remove all media from the filter such as carbon. Only use some form of bio-balls and coarse sponge as filter media. (Filter wool is fine but will clog quickly). Ammonia removers, carbon etc quickly loose their ability to work effectively and begin to leach toxins back into the turtle tank which can lead to illness over time. Never underestimate how dirty turtles can be. You need to change up to half your tank water weekly and all your water monthly. Internal filters need weekly cleaning with your water change. External; filters should not need cleaning for up to 3 mths or more depending on size of tank, amount of turtles etc. Place a 'pre-filter' sponge over the intake hose to decrease the waste matter going into your filter. e.g./ cable-tie a coarse sponge around the inlet filter and remove it for cleaning weekly. This stops loads of bio waste getting inside your filter. (NB/some turtles will eat the sponge so you can't use it for those turtles.) Remember that for every poo, turtles do 5 times the amount in wee, so change at least 1/3 to 1/2 of your water every week so they aren’t drinking and swimming in a sewer. Do a full water change every 3 to 4 weeks as well.  

 

TANK SIZE

Don’t be fooled, turtles grow rapidly and a baby needs a 3 ft tank and maximum swimming space to stay strong and healthy. Adult males need a 4ft (120cm long) tank minimum and females a 6 ft (2 metre) tank. Don’t have a ‘lip or edge’ on basking area as it causes injury. Ramp needs to be deep into the water so turtle can easily climb out to bask and water level MUST be right up to the basking platform to prevent injury as the turtle dives off. Recommendations indicate that turtles need 40 litres of water per 1cm of shell size. The larger the tank, the happier the turtle. Also aquarium stones in tanks are one of the biggest killers of captive turtles. They explore their world by taste and can easily swallow small aquarium stones leading to impaction and death. Any stones in your tank should be larger than the turtles head so they can’t swallow them. Some smooth river rocks a few cm in size can provide interest for your turtle without danger of them swallowing them. A decent sized piece of driftwood creates security for your turtle, provides interest in your tank and turtle can scratch with it, even bite at it without causing injury. Don't have rocks in your tank. They can cause  small scratches in the shell which leads to ulcers and shell rot. Many turtles get trapped between rocks and drown.  

 

HUMIDITY

Lids on tanks are a disaster as they cause a buildup of condensation which can literally rot the skin off the bone. They also lead to respiratory issues such as pneumonia. If you need a protective cover, use a mesh with a gap of 1½ cm to allow UV in and condensation out. Solid Rimu lids look nice, but are endangering the turtle’s health. Cut neat holes through the lid to allow air exchange and prevent your turtle from suffering. Remember never sit your Reptile light on top of glass.

 

OUTSIDE ENVIRONMENT

A healthy turtle over 15cm can live outside in a soft environment in the North Island. The South Island poses challenges for hibernating turtles and should only be done if you have a warm, sheltered area for your pond and research the correct way to safely hibernate them. A soft pond environment means either a natural clay bottomed pond or pond-liner over sand or carpet. DO NOT use concrete and avoid any rough rocks. Have water around 60cm or more deep for adult females and ensure there’s nothing the turtle can bang into when it slides into the water. Position your pond for maximum sunlight, as turtles need a sunny basking area with access to shade. Artificial grass, logs, garden or lawn make a suitable basking area. Use vermiculite or a mix of clay and loam or fine soil to provide a suitable egg laying place for your female. For hibernation an ideal is to have mud in the bottom of your pond, 46 cm below the frost line, for them to burrow into. Don’t attempt hibernation without finding out some information about how to go about it successfully first. Barley straw anchored near the bottom of the pond in one end is also great for turtles to hibernate in. (Don't use other types of straw.)

 

FENCING

Secure fencing is critical to prevent escapes from a pond. They can squeeze through Small gaps, climb up netting and shrubbery, or dig their way out; particularly a female wanting to lay eggs. I've had turtles scale a 1 metre fence! Use smooth wood or large, natural boulders or plastic netting with an overhang at the top. A fence that the turtle can't see through is best. If they can 'see out', they want to 'get out' and become stressed trying to escape all day. Whatever you choose, remember other animals, children and burglars can also be an issue for your turtles outside so think carefully about where you want to position your pond.

 

FOOD

Feeding is one of the most important functions of a turtle owner! Feed an amount of food equal to the size of the turtles empty head. (Feed greens freely).

Hatchlings - feed daily. Adults- feed every 2nd day.

Remember...turtles live in the water and have a fish based diet, they don't climb out and eat cows! 

Think green! Turtles need to eat greens! Have plants/greens in tank at all times. An all protein/pellet diet leads to shell deformities and organ damage. Apply 'tough love' to get turtle eating greens

Protein = pond snails, worms, insects, pellets, fresh or dried fish, whitebait, ready-made 'wet' turtle foods e.g. 'hot-house' turtle food. Hot house food is a great source of appropriate minerals, calcium and vitamins. You can't beat plenty of live food for any turtles to eat, especially feeder fish. JBL products such as Energil, Classic or Agil and freeze dried crickets from Insect Direct are excellent turtle foods. You can also use Hikari Cichlid Gold fish food for turtles. 

Daily = O2 weed, watercress, duckweed, water lily leaves, azolla other aquatic plants and dandelion leaves. Occasional carrot sticks, frilly lettuce, mesculin salad or kumara skin can be used if you are unable to source aquatic plants. 

DON'T feed any form of red meat, processed meats, cabbage, Kale, spinach, silverbeet, rhubarb, beets, celery, broccoli, mince, dog food, raw chicken, salty fish, brussel sprouts or avocado. (Avocado is lethal for reptiles.) 

Edited June 22, 2016 by DonnaM
updated information

[Navarre]

Thats great

Thanks Donna

[alanmin4304]

Go to the experts and you get the right answers.

[livingart]

well done donna

thank you

probably need to add vets and turtle rescue contacts

where are your details?

[DonnaM]

Is it Ok to post my details for " Turtle Rescue and rehoming?" email and cell phone on the site? :-?

[livingart]

yes donna it is ok to post your details

we can post other vets that others have used as well

[DonnaM]

Turtle Rescue and rehoming.

Providing -Care for rehomed, neglected and abandoned turtles.

-Rehabilitation for your sick or injured turtles.

-Turtle 'vacations' while you are an holiday.

-Information on turtle care in general.

There are currently over 50 turtles in care, with 25 needing to be rehomed. Donna receives no financial help to pay for the upkeep or vet bills of the rescue turtles.

For further information, contact Donna at [email protected]

or 021 2020 185

[DonnaM]

Reptile vets

Hornby veterinary clinic,

7 Tower st

Christchurch

Ph (03) 349 5311

email [email protected]

Vet: Ross Blanks ,specialising in turtles.

Vet: Pauline, with an interest in other reptiles.

[herperjosh]

hey donna nice caresheet hey are internal fikltres okay as my dad when he saw the price on externals they where $300 and my blue tongue is getting really big so we need the money to get him a bigger cage

[livingart]

internal filters are alright but require more regular cleaning as well as more frequent water changes IMO

ntenal filters need weekly cleaning with your water change.

[DonnaM]

Hi Josh, The internal filter would be Ok to start with, but as LA said, you'd need to be pretty strict with your water changes and cleaning out the filter regularly. You'd need to look out for an external filter on sale at some stage and save your $ up in the meantime.

If you have everything set, then 'baby alan' is ready for pick-up

[carznkats]

Hi Josh, try searching cf1000 on trademe, it is a reasonable priced (around $150) external filter for upto 200L and many members fine them fine, otherwise organism has a fluval 205 for $200 (a good easy filter to use).

[Perpin]

Awesome job DonnaM!

[Jennifer]

Fantastic stuff Donna. That info is so desperately needed in the turtle care community.

Just one question: the link you listed in the document would not open, I don't think it was copied over completely, can you post it again?

[DonnaM]

Thanks Perpin.

I redid the link jnniferh... It jumps all over the place when trying to edit... so hopefully will work. The whole link doesnt seem to show in the post...but when I clicked on it, it did take me thru to the web page, so if its still a problem, can you let me know again.

[DonnaM]

> http://www.happyturtlespub.org/smf/inde ... ic=16305.0

and here it is again, just in case

[Floater]

Through my recent research into turtle care I've come across a very informative PDF for general care of Australian turtles. You have to register to the forum to access it. Here it is http://www.australianfreshwaterturtles. ... php?t=3383

[DonnaM]

Photo of turtle tank set-up.

Tank positioned near (not in) window for ease of access for cleaning but also doesnt allow sunlight to cause algae growth.

No shingle which makes cleaning so much easier and prevents intestinal blockage, prolapse and possible death. Turtles WILL eat shingle, and you should not have any in your tank. River stones which are larger then an adult turtles head can be used in your tank if you want a substrate.

No rocks which can cause minor injuries to turtle shell and then over time progress to ulcerative shell disease and possible slow death.

Driftwood for turtles to scratch on, hide behind and provide interest to the tank. Other smooth, plastic ornaments can also be used. Plastic plants will get eaten and can cause blockages.

No lids on tank which cause condensation/ excessive humidity. This can lead to shell or respiratory issues.

Large basking area. Reptile UVB light with no perspex cover and no glass lids to block UV light getting to turtles. (If it doesn't say 'Reptile' on the bulb, it's no use)

Ordinary light bulb to provide warmth which encourages turtles to bask and dry out. A ceramic lamp fitting is best due to the amount of time the lights need to stay on every day.

Basking area completely dry to prevent issues with the plastron or skin.

Large external filter...this tank has 1 fluval 405 ad an Eheim. No carbon, ammonia remover added to filters which will leach toxins back into the water after about 2 weeks of use.

Maximum water depth possible.

Heater WITH heater-guard as turtles will break a glass heater. I have had turtles which have EATEN the chunks of glass and plastic from a broken heater.

Prefilter sponge to stop greens etc clogging up filter. A piece of sponge from Para rubber held on with a twist tie is good.

Cuttlebone floating in water at all times to provide source of calcium.

Some form of 'greens' in tank at all times for turtles to nibble on. (Water lily, fancy lettuce, O2 weed and kumara skin were in tank in this photo.)

Turtles....to add interest to the tank!

[Captain Soup]

umm stupid question time... does the heater stay on at night for a tiny "still green" RES turtle? :facepalm:

[oO SKIPPY Oo]

umm stupid question time... does the heater stay on at night for a tiny "still green" RES turtle? :facepalm:

yep - it needs to be plugged in and turned on 24/7

[DonnaM]

umm stupid question time... does the heater stay on at night for a tiny "still green" RES turtle? :facepalm:

Yes, Skippys right A tiny turtle needs a pretty constant temp of 26 deg C

No question is stupid...it just tends to be the way some people choose to answer it that is stupid :nilly:

[lara3]

thankyou for the info you sent me its lovely !

sarah, emma and lara

[DonnaM]

thankyou for the info you sent me its lovely !

sarah, emma and lara

Excellent! Pleased to help