camnbron Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 After starting with a Freshwater tank of 60L then 240L, I got drawn to the Marine Reef Tanks Pretty My wife gave me the go ahead on the condition that we have a clownfish in the tank, thanks finding nemo! So after a bit of research and tyrekicking, I decided to build my own 4foot system with a sump underneath to hold the heater and skimmer. The display tank is 1.22M wide x 0.5M deep x 0.55 high The sump is my old aquaone 620 The stand is constucted of 30MM box steel that is powdercoated, and enclosed in marineply and kitchen cabinetry The skimmer is a Deltec MCE600 that I got second hand The lights are 2x 150W metal halides with Osram electronic ballasts I have around 30-35kgs of live rock around a dozen frags I purchased off Cookie Extreme 2 clownfish 1 firefish I have now pointed the top nano towards the overflow comb to get surface agitation The sump has since had a shuffle around to remove the 90degree bend I have had a few issues with noise that I have been working on. The sump was sitting on polystyrene, I removed that and replaced with a sheet of foam - that made a huge difference. I have now attached foam to the back of the doors also - it is much better at reducing the noise. I am not sure how it will survive long term. Now I am hanging out to add the next couple of fish, am thinking of getting a blennie and either a tang (Naso?) or a Dwarf angel. I also want to get my hands 5kgs of calcium chloride of the grade that medchem sells (25kgs a bit too much for me!) Any ideas or pointers would be appreciated, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasp Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 Don't think you need too many pointers, you have done an awesome job. Even the way you have placed the liverock so there is good circulation underneath shows you have done your research. The tank is all set to become one of the really good ones I will be following progress with interest . Question about the overflow, it looks like just a outlet with flow controlled by a tap? And is there a secondary pipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tui Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 Excellent job , very well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camnbron Posted August 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 Excellent job , very well done Cheers Tui, I'm pretty darn happy with how its going! Question about the overflow, it looks like just a outlet with flow controlled by a tap? And is there a secondary pipe? No, no, its a durso going down into a tee piece with 2 ball valves. One that goes directly to the sump, basically so if I wanted to pull the whole sump out, I wouldn't get any drips. The other ball valve is there just incase something else gets added in the future. And is there a secondary pipe? Nope, it would have been a good idea and I should have done it really. I am now relying on my overflow comb and regularly checking the overflow for obstructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasp Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 Edit, meant to be a pm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fmxmatt Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 Wow thats awesome! Sparked my interest again in maybe getting a sump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camnbron Posted August 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 Here is a picture showing how my sump is currently: I am using foam packing stuff for sound deadening on the doors, also under the aquaone 620 tank as I was getting resonance from either pumps in the tank (return and skimmer). Have added a tee with ball valve off it on the return line and have an elbow on end of hose from overflow. I don't have baffles, just dividers to section off the sump with a gap underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolliolli Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 Why the Ball valve and T on the return pipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camnbron Posted August 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 I use the ball valve to reduce/control turnover through main tank. The pump is 3600L/hour. Thinking about it that might help with the amount of water I get going down my overflow. I also think it helps to reduce bubbles going up to main tank since I don't have a baffle in between return pump and the rest of sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camnbron Posted November 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2007 Currently I am trialling an additional smaller overflow to reduce noise. I got the idea from the MASA forum (Aussie site) Here is the link to the discussion: http://www.masa.asn.au/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=168430&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Basically my new setup is like this: The smaller overflow is a "full syphon" The larger overflow is a back-up setup as a "durso" The full syphon has a ball valve to allow it to be throttled back but this take most of the flow. The durso only takes about 10%. What I have found is that it is now exremely quiet and I have no bubbles entering the sump. Since I only have 1 hole in the bottom of the overflow my syphon goes up over the back of the tank and in through the back of the cabinet (more fool me for not putting a second 1 in :oops: ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camnbron Posted February 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 The trial was a raging success, I've removed the foam from the doors as my sump and overflow are so quiet now. With the full syphon as the primary I have no bubbles entering the sump, I have also put some filterwool under the return pump to isolate it from the sump and this has also helped. My tank has changed since the last post. This is a picture from last month: I have since added two 4ft T5 tubes (1x Marineglo 1x powerglo)with remote electronic ballast and individual reflectors Once my tank has adjusted to these I will add a new picture. After doing a little bit of research I have decided to adopt the Zeovit system, however, I am currently awaiting my shipment to arrive, so it will be interesting to see how that works out. I would like to see less poo brown coloured corals! Also after plodding along with rainwater for top-up water, I have invested in a RO system (since end of december). I have gone with the GE Merlin Reverse osmosis system so we can use it also - its a point of use so no need for a storage container under the sink. My next hardware step I am looking at is a computer - I like the look and functions that the Profilux plus II is capable of - but am awaiting feedback from other people who have them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westy1 Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 You've really done your homework Cam,looks excellent,well set up for low maintenance,great job.The stand and hood really look the business Zeovit zepellin eta wednesday.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reef Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 What is your final light set up. as the tank looks dim compared to the first photos. what are you doing with all the corals on the basebottom? did you run out of room. I understand the fustration with the acropora being brown , i had the same problem when starting due to the lack of information. Typically the acropora will go brown due to much nutrients in the tank and sometimes lack of light, However i think you are running 150w metal halide which should be ok. Nutrients can be po4/ nitrate etc and other elements we cant test for. what is your po4 and nitrate readings? Getting a ro unit is good idea as rainwater has lots of nutrients and could be the cause of your acropora going brown. Your tank has bright green algae on the bottom which is also a sign of not good water quality, It will take a few months to remove these so i would be adding carbon and a good phostphate remover. Your tank id barebottom so it is going to important to feed your corals as they will starve and not grow as many use organics in the water and The profilux computer is pretty good and i dont have a issue with mine. I have everything on it and waiting for the sms texting so that i can get text on my mobile if anything goes wrong. The good thing about the profilux is that they are always updating it and you can add modules to it. GhL who make the aquarium controller have many models and some are very good value. I better got to bed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camnbron Posted February 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 What is your final light set up. as the tank looks dim compared to the first photos. Current lighting setup is: 150W Metal halide 14k USHIO/BLV Nepturion 150W Metal halide 20k Coralux both with osram electronic ballasts 54W T5 powerglo 54W T5 marineglo both off electronic ballast with individual reflectors 2 strips of 12 blue LEDs with custom reflectors "for ambience" what are you doing with all the corals on the basebottom? did you run out of room. Kind of.. My rose BTA is hogging centre stage, the zenia should not be where it is, the soft corals I intend to find new homes, there are some mushrooms in stupid places.... Intention is to have a tidy up in the near future what is your po4 and nitrate readings? Tested once per month and readings have always been low, although like you have pointed out the bright green algae on the bottom is present and pre-RO unit there was a handful of hair algae present. So PO4 and Nitrate will be there, just not in a measureable state. I expect this to improve over time with manual removal of what is left and the other improvements I have made/am making. I understand that the my sps would tend to be brown due to too much nutrients in the tank and lack of light - hence my move to a RO unit and the addition of the T5's. I do see colouration on the montipora's red on the plating and green on the branching not vivid though. I also believe my cleanup crew (Bicolour blenny, yellow eye kole tang, lemon peel mimic tang + snails) are assisting in improving the tanks overall condition. I selected those tangs because of their smaller tank requirements and their grazing habits. The blenny is fairly good too and he cracks me up, nosey little dude You've really done your homework Cam,looks excellent,well set up for low maintenance,great job.The stand and hood really look the business Cheers Westy, tried to tie the look in with the home theater system cabinet. Zeovit zepellin eta wednesday.. YeeHah! Best I get my A into G and get ready. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reef Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Current lighting setup is: 150W Metal halide 14k USHIO/BLV Nepturion 150W Metal halide 20k Coralux both with osram electronic ballasts 54W T5 powerglo 54W T5 marineglo both off electronic ballast with individual reflectors 2 strips of 12 blue LEDs with custom reflectors "for ambience" Your lighting is more than enough except the corallux would be pretty dim. I would change that to a better bulb. the light output would be pretty low especially being 20k. In the first photo when you set up the tank looks so bright. what test kit are you using as not many will go low enough to test po4.? The salifert will go low as you can double the sample to get down to .001 Even better get a photometer or deltec po4 test kit. I would take it easy on the bacterial system as your tank does not have many hard corals and these systems can cause problems like leather corals /mushrooms melting away, Had it happen to me after taking a bacterial system to the limit to get better colours. sps survive but many soft corals did not like it, Your are at a bigger risk as having no substrate will mean the tank is even more clean which could starve the corals. The green montipora on the right might be getting to much light as they tend to colour up much better in medium light, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camnbron Posted April 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2008 OK time for an update. I've been running the Zeovit system for 2 months now, so when I finally get some more SPS my system will be ready. Live stock wise I have: Yellow eye kole tang Bristletooth tang (I mistakenly thought this was a mimic tang) - had a few minor scuffles between the 2 (same shape), but happy as larry now Bicolour blennie - seems to be growing out of his orange? 2 Percula clowns (hosting my return outlet) 1 Firefish (spends 80% of its time in its bolthole) Male blue Mandarin Orange spotted prawn goby (unfortunately we can't get the sybiotic relationship going as blind shrimp not on MAF list) 2 Fireshrimp Rose Bubbletip anenome Blue Maxima clam Corals are a mixture different Soft, LPS, and SPS with a few grouped colonies of Zoas and mushrooms Non-benaficial algae has markedly reduced over the past few months - this has been a mixture of manual removal and water quality improvement (IMO) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camnbron Posted April 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2008 Hardware update: I have ordered a profilux Plus II system with W/LAN card included in the order is a 6way plug bar and 2 tunze nano 6055's This still leaves me 2 more expansion slots in the controller for any additions in the future. But since santa is delivering my present early this year that would have to wait until 2009! Profilux will be able to take care of my lighting, flow, temperature, top-up water and PH. If I get really keen I will be able to moniter and control the system via the internet (which should be a bit of a giggle when I'm at work on my nightshifts, and my wife is in the livingroom!) :lol: Lights go on. Pumps speed up. Lights go off. Pumps slow down. Lights go on. Lights go off. :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidb Posted April 13, 2008 Report Share Posted April 13, 2008 pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camnbron Posted May 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 PROFILUX IS UP AND RUNNING I Spent this morning setting up the profilux system. I found it to be very user friendly, I had a little drama setting up the WLan card - forgot my network was secure, so profilux wasn't allowed to connect. I have already used up my 6 outlets Profilux now controls: 2x Tunze nano 6055's 2x Tunze nano 6025's T5s 2x MHs Zeovit Reactor Heater I'm thinking I might need to invest in another powerbar Then I could control: Cooling fan skimmer Sump light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drifty Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 wow nice looking tank, loking forward to what it looks like in a few years time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volkster Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 Very nice Sireee Nice balance of colours going there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapphire Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 Very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 tank is looking really good cam have you got a generator to kick in when the power goes off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westy1 Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 Sweet looking setup there Cam,liking the auto thing Looks like some nice shelves for placing the next shipment of acros,Westy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snorkel Posted July 30, 2008 Report Share Posted July 30, 2008 Very nice. Reading Ya posts is like learning another language! Must be time for a new pic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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